Would like some opinions on this one, even though it isnt a Penton, it could be parted to save some Pentons.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d89/AJ67SS/DKW%20Boondocker/100_9763.jpg)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d89/AJ67SS/DKW%20Boondocker/100_9749.jpg)
Picked this DKW Boondocker up, and it looks pretty complete, except the complete ignition is missing (coil, flywheel, stator) and it has InterAm bars on it. Also missing the boot to the air cleaner and no filter in the air box.
Throttle works, so the slide isnt stuck in the Bing, has all Magura controls and the motor spins over with a piston stamped 53.93. It shifts fine. Tag on the ignition cover says DKW 1251 / 6B. Serial number on the motor is 9032025 and the frame has 42800XXXX
Fork tubes arent rusty but the rims, fenders and headlight surround are. Tank is ok too. Forks look just like the ones that were on my Steel tanker Penton.
More pic's here: http://s33.photobucket.com/albums/d89/AJ67SS/DKW%20Boondocker/
Should I part it to save some other bikes or is this good enough / popular enough to save?
Andy
#14u MOVMX, AMA, AHRMA
Andy,
I can't advise you on restore vs part out. If it were me, I would restore, but that is just my preference. If you do decide to part it out, I would like to have first dibs on the bolt-on silencer on the expansion chamber. I have a completely restored motocross version of the same year model with the leading-link front end that needs a stock silencer. The un-dented tank and decent steel fenders and exhaust heat shield are also hard to find items. Please keep me in mind. You can email me at
[email protected]Nelson Lingle
73 Jackpiner
74 Jackpiner
71 DKW 125
I am pretty sure it is against the LAW to part out a bike like that. LG
Larry: I agree, I hate to scrap or part out anything.
Nelson: your first on the list, if I do part it out (but it aint looking good).
Update: After messing with the motor a bit, it now spins over and the cylinder looks great. Going to check the compression here in a bit, after letting the Kroil work a while, and maybe do a pressure test.
Might have to see what how my little soda blaster will work on the rust.
I am now leaning towards getting it running.
Andy
#14u
MOVMX, AMA, AHRMA
Andy, hi,
IMO that bike is too complete to part out,
it would make a Sweet restore !!
regards,
Mike Gallagher, NJ.
Way too complete and much rarer than a Penton. Restore it.
Andy, just dip the whole thing in Evaporust!
Phil
Hello, IMO if you are not interested in the DKW, someone else would certainly be. The bike is very complete, and in good condition. There are many more Pentons from which to "donate" parts to restore Pentons. There are fewer DKW's and their parts available. There has also been recent discussion on the POG site regarding the issue of restoring vs maintaining original condition. Joe
Thats way to complete to part put!If you take a little good quality aluminum foil, water and and some elbow grease you'll be amazed how much of that rust will come off! Really works.
Jeffrey P. Borer
Amherst,Ohio
OK, I get it. With all the emails and phone calls, I understand and it will be saved.
Might take some time, but will stay complete.
The first chore will be to get it running and I have already put a call to the guy who bought all my Sachs motors and spare motoplat's last year.
Thanks for all the opinions (I asked for them) and if I run out of steam on the project, it will go to a fellow POG member.
Andy
#14u
MOVMX, AMA, AHRMA
Isn't that the way it always is?? As soon as you sell off your "spares", it's the time that you need 'em?
Andy,
You should send the frame number to Leo Keller on the Vinduro Group. He can tell you more about it. If I'm correct it is a very rare Boondocker. I have one also and only 30 were imported with the Betor front end. Send me your frame number and I'll check it against mine. We could have consectutive Deeks!
Vance
I guess you get the picture by now. You can not slaughter that bike for any reason at all. It is against the constitution to begin with.
Thanks for the info Vance I knew they were rare but not that rare. I have one with a Betor front end as well.
Get it running and keep it the way it is for now.
Not to steal your thread, but, the reason why!
There is a growing underground movement in L.A. of keeping vintage street legal motorcycles just the way they are found. Paying Homage to the original owners and the bikers "folk art" styling. The only exception is to get them running. It's a artist thing. You'll see a flyer hung up in some obscure place at a local motorcycle hangout (i.e. The Rock Store, Cooks Corner) for something totally different, usually late at night in downtown LA. You go to the event and all these old un-restored street bikes come out of the wood work by the hundreds. I went to my 1st one a couple of weeks ago and had a blast. It was an event that showed homemade movies made by motorcyclist which had a motorcycle theme. It was unreal. Most of the people in attendance were local young artists and musicians. So, their dress and "look" was "different". As a matter of fact, I was the weird looking "normal" one there. I felt like I went to the set of the "Rocky Horror Picture Show"
One of the best motorcycle events I ever attendented. No fights, Egos, just very friendly people. I would have loved to shown up on that bike!
The reasoning behind this movement is, they can't afford new bikes, but they want to ride, so they find some old bike sitting in somebodies garage or side yard and get them running. Young Men, Women, every size, color, race, it doesn't matter, they just wanna ride.
I guess the next "Event" is an Enduro Ride on 100cc bikes or less. Most of the people that are going to participate in that event are riding old honda trail 90's.
So keep it stock, but get it running.
G
72 six-day
79 KTM MC80 250
I am saving it guys.
Vance: Traded emails with Leo and gave him the serial number, they are a couple of years apart: yours is a 74 (1 of 30), mine is a 72 (1 of 140).
You can see some differences in small stuff like the battery tray location, speedo seperate from the light, etc.
Already started playing with getting the rust off the fenders. Running an evapo-rust test against 0000 steel wool with Never Dull mixed in and elbow grease (which is hard to beat).
The motor now spins over nicely and i found no rust in the cylinder or crank area. Probably take the carb apart tonight and see how it looks.
Andy
#14u
MOVMX, AMA, AHRMA
Yeah! Another vintage bike rescued by a new owner. Joe
Andy Do you or any one else know the numbers of DKW's imported into the USA each year and the breakdown between Enduros vrs MX bikes.
Desmond,
I sent you an email with some info.
Andy
#14u
MOVMX, AMA, AHRMA
Thanks Have not gotten it yet
Remember that the site in-house email does not work. Mike
Michael R. Winter
I enjoy rebuilding and appreciating Pentons!
1974 250 HS Pentons-1980 KTM 175-400'S
75 Can Am 175 TNT & 77 250 Black Widow
1976-78 RM & 77-79 PE Suzuki's
74 CR250M 07 CR125R & CR150R
my email is mrpbody44 at yahoo.com
Thanks
My DKW in MX trim with leading-link front end and same tank color as Andy's is frame number 428000584. Only 362 ahead of Andy's on the assembly line. Any information on this serial number? Thanks.
Nelson Lingle
73 Jackpiner
74 Jackpiner
71 DKW 125
Nelson,
All I have so far is that Vance's is a 74 which is 1 of 8 and mine is a 72 which is 1 of 140.
I dont know if that is 1 of 140 total enduro's and MX's or just Bator forked bikes, or just Enduro's, or even total exported to the US.
I will see what else I can find out.
Andy
#14u
MOVMX, AMA, AHRMA
I've got one that was an ex dealer race bike. It has Betors, and I have a couple with leading link front ends also.
Here is some encourgement. My DEEK only has 176 original unrestored miles.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee30/t20sl/DCP_1993.jpg)MG]http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee30/t20sl/DCP_1996.jpg[/IMG]IMG(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee30/t20sl/DCP_1982.jpg)]
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee30/t20sl/DCP_1992.jpg)
Just a quick update on the Boondocker:
With the help of Mike G, Al B, Terry E, Ted A, and especially Vance, (and a bit of smack from Phase Plant Phil) I have the Boondocker up and running. It is sucking oil from the clutch side crank seal, so I didnt get to ride it for more than a few minutes.
Here is how it looked last weekend before I started in on the rims:
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d89/AJ67SS/DKW%20Boondocker/100_9776.jpg)
Some quality time with Evapo-Rust and serious elbow grease with 0000 steel wool and Never-Dull got the rust killed. I also had to do some glass bead blasting on the front rim get some rust off. The rear rim will have to wait until I get a tire.
All lights and switchs now work and it is a 12volt motoplat thanks to Vance's magic.
I need to tear into the clutch side crank seal, find a seat cover or upholstry place and as long as I am in the motor, I will freshen up the clutch plates.
Depending on how things move along, I may get a Missouri MV Inspection done on it in Dec, so I can get it plated.
Andy
#14u
MOVMX, AMA, AHRMA
Andy, Your effort really shows! You have brought a great bike back to life. Getting it running is a great accomplishment. The crank seals are not difficult to replace even with the engine in the frame, and both should be replaced on the Sachs engine. If the trans side seal is leaking, it is most likely that the ignition side is worse. You have done a great job polishing the chrome. p.s. the chain looks too tight. Joe
Thanks Joe.
Good catch on the chain; it was too tight when I took the pic's. I had to give it some slack so it would roll easily, before pulling the bike back into my shop.
I replaced the ignition side crank seal when I installed the 12V motoplat that I got from Vance.
I have the a gasket set on the way, but dont I have to split the cases to replace the crank seal on the clutch side of a Sachs motor?
Thanks,
Andy
#14u
MOVMX, AMA, AHRMA
Andy, Serious damage may occur to the countershaft, the bearing, and other components if the chain is too tight. I have seen engine cases completely broken off from the countershaft to the rear of the engine cases. My guess is at least 1 1/2" of chain up and down. On the clutch side of the crankshaft, there is the main bearing, main crank seal, and outer (small) crankshaft bearing. So the main seal is placed on the crankshaft between two bearings. I believe I have replaced that crankshaft seal by splitting the cases, removing the crankshaft with the inner bearing race attached and the main bearing in a cage, and this will expose the seal. The crankshaft does NOT have to be removed from the ignition side of the cases. If you can figure out a way to remove the outer bearing, the seal might be able to be installed that way. It may be tough with the crankshaft end in the way. I hope other POG members add their suggestions. They likely know something I don't. I will emain Doug Wilford regarding the seal. He is very good with Sachs engines.... Joe
Andy, Doug Wilford's response was, "in theory it can be done." He added that it would be very difficult to pull the outer bearing. I hope other POG members respond if they have ever attempted this method. Splitting the cases is not a very difficult job. Be sure to keep all the pieces and shims in place. Joe
HeadLight, taillight, speedo, telescopic front end, battery box, original steel fenders, stock exhaust. I've never seen a Deek in such pristine condition !!! Great score
Raymond
Down East Pentons