Is there anyway to take the rest of the motor apart with the piston being sezied in the cylender(IMG below)?
Sorry for the spelling errors, my fingers don't want to function today.
(http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k511/Sar2012/SiezedPistion.jpg)
The dark color your seeing in the metal and on the pistion is a penetrating oil. I'm tring to save a few hundred bucks.
If you are talking about splitting the cases you have to get the cylinder high enough to remove the cylinder studs then you can split the cases, but you still have a cylinder attached to a piston that is attached to a crankshaft via a rod. I find it easier to remove the cylinder first.
Ron Carbaugh
Scott...you included the picture after I made my post. This can be a long process, not just over night.
Ron Carbaugh
It has sat for years, Im not expecting to undo years of detereation in a mear night or even week, this is more of a several month if not year long project (or longer on my wages).
You have my email address if you need to ask any questions.
Ron Carbaugh
If you intend to restore the bike, or do other work on it, I suggest you do that work while soaking the top end with penetrating oil, PB Blaster, and other solutions. Patience is the key, and you don't want to damage the engine. If an extreme situation, I have used a large pipe which fits in the cylinder, and a sledge hammer to remove the piston. It is a two-person process, but I DID get the piston out. Good luck, Joe
I agree with the PB Blaster recommendation. That stuff works wonders. Squirt a bunch of it in and let it sit. Keep applying it. It may take days, or weeks, but it will eventually free it enough to get the piston out of the cylinder.
I'm useing a rust buster or something like that. I used it to get the lugs off a truck that sat in a pasture for 15-20 years. Only took a few applications. Like I said I'm in no hurry with winter comming on. I'm trying to keep the money in my pocket as much as possible. I hope that with a few hundred dollers I could have a bike to play in the river bed with and eventualy pass it down to my kids (when/if I have one).
I forgot to mention that I'm looking for the front fender. I dont care about age as long as it's in one piece. I'm useing this plastic bleach and sandpaper applicator my friend gave me.
Make sure you spray the penetrating oil in the exhaust port and intake port.
Also take a block of wood and put it on the piston and rap the wood with a hammer to set up a vibration and that helps the oil penetrate.
I you are going to force the piston out, use a dead-blow hammer (I have a Snap-on piston hammer) but a small Harbor freight one will work.
(http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/OBJECTS/50200/50148.JPG)
Quotequote:Originally posted by TedG
Make sure you spray the penetrating oil in the exhaust port and intake port.
Also take a block of wood and put it on the piston and rap the wood with a hammer to set up a vibration and that helps the oil penetrate.
I you are going to force the piston out, use a dead-blow hammer (I have a Snap-on piston hammer) but a small Harbor freight one will work.
(http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/OBJECTS/50200/50148.JPG)
I'll have to see if I can find one on the cheap. I have been spraying the piston from all angles.
Also you can soak the top of the piston with CLR (Calcium, Lime, Rust) to help loosen the rust. Probably wouldn't be a great idea to leave it more than a day or two though.
Quotequote:Originally posted by TedG
Also you can soak the top of the piston with CLR (Calcium, Lime, Rust) to help loosen the rust. Probably wouldn't be a great idea to leave it more than a day or two though.
I'll have to give that a try, Thanks for the tip.
I've broken pistons out before with this method that Ted G suggests.(good advice Ted)
Sometimes its the only way. Just remember, pistons you can replace along with a new bore, but that cranks another expensive player. If you can get the impact away from the crank, Ie: shimming under the cylinder,while you bang on the wood block and piston, Good luck with this...
Raymond
Down East Pentons