I am in need of a clutch control arm and perch for my 1969 Penton/Sachs Motocross with 7/8" handlebars.
Does anyone have one for sale or know where I can look for one? Thanks
Hello Bill,
Welcome to the POG site. Are you needing the ISDT style quick adjust type lever and perch like the one pictured ? This type came standard on the 69 Steeltank Penton. Let us know.
Dave McCullough
Thank you, Dave,
I have attached a picture of the front brake lever assembly.
The aftermarket clutch lever that I tried to use does not pull the clutch cable far enough to release the clutch.
The perch is smaller. (Shorter?) than the original. The original levers are smooth. Also, the adjuster, screws into the perch.
Thank you for helping me with this. I rode Motocross and Enduros in the early 70's on this Bike.
BillSachs Brake lever small.JPG
Bill,
You're welcome. Yes, I can see from your picture that it's a Sachs which should use the type levers you pictured. I'll check my Magura stash to see if I have what you are looking for. When is the last time your bike was ridden and the clutch working ? Reason I ask is because if it's been sitting idle (non-running)for a length of time, it's possible that the clutch plates are stuck together and may not disengage even with the correct Magura lever. I'll let you know on the lever.
Dave McC
Thank you, Dave,
I think you are on to something. I shortened the cable (too short) but I now know that the clutch should disengage. The arm that the cable pulls up in the clutch housing goes almost to the top of its ark. It should put plenty of pressure on the clutch.
It still doesn't disengage.
I will now take out the clutch (very carefully) and clean it.
Thank you again for your help and let me know if you have the right clutch lever and perch.
Bill
Bill,
I dug through my Magura box and came up with this perch and lever. The perch has a tiny crack next to the pivot bolt hole but think it should still work okay for some light non-racing duty. I do not have a pivot bolt/nut or cable adjuster for it however. If you go to the suppliers page on the website and look at Al Buehner's Penton parts page, he has the pivot bolt/nut and adjuster for sale in his inventory. I'd be glad to send these to you at no cost as I still own a Sachs bike too and have a soft spot for them. Let me know and we'll work out the shipping details. Also, if you plan to take the clutch apart to clean up the plates and friction discs, it's best to have a spare inner clutch gear handy to stack everything back up when reassembling it.
Dave McC
Hi Dave,
You were right about the clutch being stuck together. They were a mess. I have it all cleaned up and have a clutch
hub coming, so that I can reassemble it. I would love to have the lever and perch. I looked on Alan's site and think I need to get the parts D and E at the top of the page? At 77 years old, I don't plan on doing any completive racing! My mailing address is P.O. Box 956 Colfax, CA 95713. Please let me know the amount that I owe you and I will send it to you. Thanks again for your interest and help. Loved the picture of your Sachs!
Bill
Bill,
I will get the lever and perch headed your way in the mail today. Yes, items D and E on Alan B's Magura parts page should complete the assembly. Keep us posted on the progress of getting the Sachs back up and running again.
Dave McCullough
Thank you, Dave! Let me know how much to ship, so I can send the fee to you.
Ordering the other parts right now. This means a lot to me to have the original parts on my Sachs.
I will let you know when I get it running!
Bill
You're welcome Bill and you don't owe me anything. Just glad I was able to help you out. I dropped off the package at the post office a little while ago and they estimated delivery to be on Saturday. There is a wealth of knowledge on this site with regards to Sachs powered machines so just ask if you have questions. Best of luck getting your bike running again !
Dave McC
Hi Dave,
I have the parts!!
I'm waiting for the screw and cable adjuster.
Putting the clutch back in today, if I can take the heat in my old garage.
We are at 104 right now!
I am putting medium Loctite on the ends of the screws.
Can't wait to get it running again.
Thanks for all of your help.
Bill
Any update on your progress Bill ? Be careful out there working in the heat. It's been a hot summer here for me as well with the forecast calling for triple digits returning once again for the next few days.
Dave McC
Hi Dave,
I just finished sealing the tank. (I used the POR-15.) I decided to just use wax on the tank, instead of a clear coat, to protect the original finish. Everything is back together!
I'm ready to start it up! I've been doing research on whether or not I can use starter fluid. The can that I have says that it has oil in it. Any ideas? I want to hear it fire up before putting fuel into the tank. I'll be sending a picture soon.
Bill
Bill,
Glad to hear you're making progress. I've had no I'll effects from using a small shot of starting fluid occasionally to see if a bike will fire. Good luck and keep us posted.
Dave McC
Bill, Dave's dad Nelson has often told me of having a temporary tank of sorts that he uses when wanting to fire up a bike without installing the correct tank on the machine. Maybe Dave or Nelson will chime in with a few of the details. It always seemed like a geat idea and maybe it would suit your needs. I enjoy following your progress
Paul
Bill,
Yes, Paul is correct that my dad and I both have small fuel tanks to test run bikes. All you need is to find a small gas tank from a old piece of lawn equipment as most of them already have a petcock on the tank. It works great and saves you from having to put gas in the tank every time you want to run the bike. I believe Motion Pro makes a small plastic tank for this purpose as well. Attached is a picture of my recent 100 Berkshire project being started for the first time after restoration. Let us know how it's going.
Dave McCullough
Well, I used some starter fluid, but it would not fire.
I have spark at the spark plug.
I'm now trying to get the flywheel off, so I can check the points.
I'm using my old puller, but it doesn't want to budge. Back in the 70's. I used to pull the flywheel off every week when I raced the Bike.
So far, I have tried to tap around the flywheel with a plastic hammer,
tap the bolt on the puller (don't want to hit it hard enough to cause problems with the crank shaft).
Applied heat around the center of the flywheel and used some rust buster. Any ideas?
On the temporary fuel tank, I have used a metal tank off of a rototiller to run my 1963 Chevy truck.
It's a great idea.
I bought a gallon of gas last week. It finally got to under $6.00 here in California!
When it fires up with a shot of starter fluid, I will try some gas.
Thanks foe everyone's help,
Bill
If you have spark at the plug, then the points should be working. The next thing to check is timing and you need the fly wheel on for that, so might as well check that. Use a fresh plug and check all ignition related wiring to make sure nothing is grounding out when you try to start it.
Good luck,
Dan McEntee
Thank you, Dan,
I put in a new plug. Still wouldn't start. Checked the timing and it is way off. Tried to set the timing. The screws holding the stator were like they were glued or welded in! I stripped the head on one of them. I just used a pair of needle nose vice grips and finally got it out. I used an impact screw remover and got the other two loosened. Did they use some loc-tight on them?
Also, I want to find a flywheel that is no longer usable, so I can cut it apart and use the center with the lobe to set the breakers without mine being installed. This has been really hard on the Back, trying to work through the small slots.
Headed to the local Hardware Store to try and find a new screw.
Found a small gas tank, yesterday,to use as a temporary fuel supply.
We are getting there!
Thank you for your help,
Bill
Bill,
Sorry to hear you're having trouble getting the bike to fire and run. We're you finally able to get your flywheel off using the puller ? Yes, Dan is correct that if you have spark at the plug then the points are working and it could just be that the timing is off enough to create a problem. As far as setting the timing, it can be hard on the back for sure having to make adjustments through the small openings in the flywheel with everything so close to the floor. My suggestion for that would be to lay the bike over on its left side at an approx 45 degree angle so it's easier to see everything and won't spill trans fluid out the fill plug. This way at least you won't have to lay flat on the ground to work on setting the timing. I do have an old unusable Bosch flywheel that I can send you if you'll cover the shipping. Let me know and I'd be happy to send it along. Keep us posted on your progress.
Dave McCullough
Hi Dave,
Yes I got the flywheel off! I put the nut back on the shaft with the top of the nut even with the top of the threads. I used vice grips on the puller and wedged them under the foot peg. Then used a breaker bar gently but firmly and it finial popped off. I had a heck of a time getting the screws out that hold the stator in. I replaced them with stainless steel ones. Do they use lock-tight on them? Trying to set the timing, but with the stator turned all the way clockwise, the points open way before the m mark on the flywheel. It has fired up using the starter fluid. I am now going to mount a small gas tank and try to get it started on gas. I would love to have the flywheel, so I can experiment with it. I have your address and can send the shipping cost to you. Oh, I have a question on the points. Is there some type of lube put on the fabric wiper? I'm done for the night, we have friends coming for dinner.
Really appreciate everyone's help,
Bill
Bill,
Glad to hear you got the flywheel removed and after a little tweaking on the timing we're able to get the bike fired up on starting fluid. Hope it will now start on gasoline too. Did you set the point gap to .018" when fully open before adjusting the timing ? If so, I'd suspect that the rub block on your points could probably worn to the point where you're unable to rotate the stator plate enough to get the timing to the "M" mark. Can always go back and replace the points later and re-time it again once you have the bike running on gasoline. I do not use Loctite on the stator screws on my bikes. A drop of 30w motor oil on the points lubrication pad will help keep them from wearing so quickly. I'll get this old flywheel sent out this coming week. Keep us posted on your progress.
Dave McCullough
Thanks Dave,
Headed out now to work on her. I will reset the points and see if that helps.
I think that you are on to something about them being worn. I will oil the pad.
Where is the best place to buy a new set of points and condenser?
Let me know the cost of shipping on the flywheel. I have your address and will send you a check, if that will be O.K.
Bill
Dave, Daniel, Paul,
After over 40 years, she runs again!! I can't tell you how excited I am!!!
Dave, I reset the points and re-adjusted the timing.
Hooked up an old rotor tiller gas tank with some fresh gas.
She started on the third kick.
I put it in gear (with the front tire up against the wall) and the clutch works great!
I can't thank all of you enough for your help.
I tried to attach more pictures, buy can't seem to make it work.Sachs 10-30-22.JPGSachs 10-30-22.JPGSachs 10-30-22 rt side.JPGSachs 10-30-22 top smaller.JPG
Well, that's cool! Isn't it so very satisfying when things work like they should after all the work and effort? I guess the resetting of the points gave you the right timing point? The point cam block can wear, but that bike doesn't look like it has enough time on it for it to get that far. I know they make a special grease for that, came in a small tube. I would think any kind of modern light synthetic grease would do, like a lithium water proof grease, just the tiniest of dab on the cam and work it around. . Now that you have everything working and running, run the bike a bit and enjoy it, then go back and recheck your timing point and make sure the stator screws are tight, and the flywheel nut is tight. As the engine runs, sometimes things "settle " or may change a bit. In the heat of battle, you may have forgotten something or not gotten something tight. It pays to double check after all your efforts. Great job!
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
Bill,
Was glad to offer assistance and am very happy to hear that your bike is now up and running. Your bike looks great and appears to be a low time machine. Enjoy the ride after the hard work involved to bring her back to life ! I'll get that old flywheel shipped out and headed your way tomorrow. Don't hesitate to ask if you have more questions because this site has a wealth of great people with a wealth of information. Take care.
Dave McCullough
It's hard to believe that this all started back in July. I made (let?) myself take every part off of the bike and clean (lots of oven cleaner!) and buff (where needed). The only things that I painted was the handlebars and the air cleaner cover. I have used rust converter for the rusty parts. I repaired a large tear on the back of the seat (I think it looks great), put on a used tire and tube on the front wheel. I will have to get a new tire for the back. Then there was the clutch, boy am I glad that I found the POG site! Couldn't have done it without all of your help.
Hope you all have a great day!
Bill
When I got back into dirt bikes it was with vintage stuff and the first bike I found was a '72 125 Six Days that was a really nice survivor. I wasn't exactly sure how I was going to approach what I needed to do with the bike, so just sat on it for a bit. This was about the time the first ISDT Reunion Rides were being held and I met Al Buehner at the first one that was held at St. Joe State Park here in Missouri, and showed the bike to him, and he was impressed at it's condition. He was the first one to advise me to just clean it up as best I could, and leave as much original as I could, because in his words "It's only original once. You can restore something over and over, but it's only original once!" I'm glad I met him before I started in on it and boogered it up bad!! I think you have gone the correct path and done a fine job with it and you should be proud!
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
Bill,
That old flywheel is going out today via USPS Prioriy Mail in a small flat rate box. Cost was $10.40 and should arrive to you on Friday. A check to cover the shipping will be fine. I'm so glad you got your bike up and running again. Enjoy !
Take care !
Dave McCullough
Thanks Dave,
Got it! I will let you know how my experiment goes.
You should have my check.
Bill
Dave,
Cleaned up that old flywheel, cut an opening in it. Painted it black, marked TDC and timing mark.
It works great. A lot easier on the back! Getting some new points this week.
I have also made a tool to hold the flywheel in place in order to get the nut off and back on. I have attached 2 pictures. It either pushes or pulls on the foot peg as needed. It's made using some square fence tubing, an angle bracket and a bolt and nut. No welding. Works great too.
Bill
Bill,
I received your letter thank you. I'm glad that old flywheel was useful to you. It's been in my scrap metal bin for quite awhile and eventually would have gone to the recycling yard. I removed that flywheel from a Sachs that was found sitting in a field and was missing it's wheels. The engine was basically sitting on the ground in that field for who knows how long and so it had lots of condensation built up inside the magneto cover. I remember it was a real bear to remove. The top end of that engine was an iron barrel and rusted up so badly that I had to cut the piston to get the cylinder off and still broke a cylinder skirt in the process of removal. I sold that engine and frame at VMD Mid Ohio this past summer to a guy that was very happy to get them. Enjoy your bike and keep us posted on any new developments.
Dave McCullough