Hi I recently cleaned out my toolbox and put some items on E-bay. One of them is a clutch actuator arm from my 250. I replaced it with a higher leverage one years ago before selling the bike.
I was asked to check the slop in the arm .
I noticed about 1/4" play fore and aft at the end of the arm. I think this is excessive.
I do not know if this is rebuildable. Could somone please tell me. I will cancel the auction as I do not want to sell a bad part at any price. Thanks, James
I have bike parts in the kitchen cabinets where most people have dishes..
Its pretty shot James. They have no play new.
This is another "High Wear" item of the KTM engine. A very important part but made cheap. I have often thought about a way to rebuild these or maybe even remanufacture them but the $$$$$ always brings me back to reality!
Kip
The engineering minded like yourself need to think on that one some more because the KTM clutch actuator is in short supply. Between all the major inventories there may be only a dozen or so around. I believe this is an item that will be needed to continue to race these bikes.
Larry
Do you have a NOS actuator? I have been contacted by someone willing to look into remaking them!
[email protected]
Kip, I have a pretty good used one off of a 73 250 that I can send you if it will help. Dennis
It would be nice to incorporate a small aircraft grease zerk in the newer models if made. Or at least make the body of the actuator out of stronger material!
Kip
I have a couple of the newer style ones left but that is all. They are far superior to the originals and will bolt up as replacement. They can be lubed and have a built in protector. If this would help I would gladly loan it for reproduction as long as I get it back.
Help me with this one.What is the difference in styles ? My '75 'Piner has a short kinked arm and I have a grease fitting.Looked in various manuals and only found a different type with a built-case protector and none with a grease fitting.Clutch action on the bike is great.Please advise.
I ended auction and am shipping to the high bidder. He wanted the part still so he gets it( he wants to pay the shipping-I haven't decided yet..). It is funny how worn that was. It was working fine when I pulled it off the bike. I only replaced it because Bobby Lucas had some nos ones with the later model arm etc. (this is all back in 93).
I'm glad to hear that parts are going to be made. Yes this is an important part.
Given all the excitement on this board with new parts being made etc..It seems like 93 again to me. After my Maico gets going I am going after a mint 400. Thank you here for your responses, James
I have bike parts in the kitchen cabinets where most people have dishes..
Larry, Karl
There must have been two styles, the early "pot" metal type that wore and the later with protector and grease zerk? I am assuming the early was a 72-74 thing and the later being 74 up thing? Vely interesting!
Larry, can you bring a later actuator to Mid Ohio? I have a early one in decent shape! We can compare notes with Karl.
Will do, Kip.
Spare Parts Manual Engine for KTM 125-175-250-400,dated 9-76 (bottom left corner).The manual shows different styles,no grease fitting.My 'Piner looks to have the "old" style with somebody adding a zerk fitting.Havn't taking the part apart,but maybe they can be rebuilt and small bushings installed ?
The old style came on all bikes thru 76. In 77 they came with a different style unit but do to cost and the fact they cracked if a rock or something got wedged in between theguard and the sprocket they went back to the old style one again in 78 and on. A modified design of the 77 unit would be the best long term solution but the production cost of a 77 style unit would be much higher. I believe I have a new or near new origional style unit if you wind up needing it Kip. I also have a couple good used ones if there is a need by anyone. I didnt realize they were in such short supply. You can use them for a long time by rebending the arm out more if you dont mind the drool from leakage. All the parts that wear are lubed by the gear oil I think, so Im not so sure a grease fitting would help much??
"Back in the days",there was an article in "Keeping Track" about adding a grease fitting to the actuator arm. I did it years ago and seems to be doing fine.
Lewis A Mayer
Bob, I've got an NOS new-style actuator if you want to see it. I'm saving it for either a 250 or 400, whichever I get going first. I can bring it to Byron on Saturday. Let me know.
Glenn
I have put the new style actuator on my Mint 400 and the MC5 and it seems to be easier to disengage than the old style. It still isn't a true "1 or 2 finger" clutch actuation effort. It's a hard 2 finger, easy 3 finger which doesn't help much with shifting. Maybe my fingers aren't strong enough? Maybe I should back off on the clutch springs another 1/2 turn?
Teddy
I seem to remember having a fixture that we used to re-bore the housing of these actuators, and then we would put a steel sleeve in the the rebore. This meant that the arm would stay tight longer, but if you didn't keep it clean an lubed, it would get tight on you.
I can picture the fixture in my mind, but I don't know if it is still around.
Dane Leimbach
Penton Imports Co., Inc.
Dane.
we were looking at ways to rebuild the old style. did you use an end mill in a fixture? the barrel with the arm would need truing , depending on how bad it is.
a steel sleeve could be sourced at the hardware store and modified we think. if the housing is worn bad something like JB weld could be used to fill the gaps and hold the sleave in place once the hole is trued up.
the pins that hold the thing together and are the contact point for the clutch rod look like needle bearings.
John D.
Edited by - john durrill on 06/30/2003 09:57:41 AM
John,
Since we had a complete machine shop, I remember using a flycutter in the mill, and then turning sleeves in the lathe. I don't remember the process for cutting the pin hole. I don't remember having to do anything with the cylinder on the arm, but we could have made new ones, as I do remember knocking the pin out of the cylinder and removing the arms.
This was all being done at a time when I moved out of the machine shop and back into the ignition part of the business.
Dane