I have been having problems with my power valve on my 2001 KTM 200 EXC. I have had a number of people say it is because I am using Golden Spectro oil. They claim that it is too gummy even at 52:1 for the power valves and they gum up and stick. I have been using Golden Spectro since I got back into bikes 5 years ago. It was recommended by everyone including many from this site. Speedy (Helmut Clausen) the Canadian KTM distributor says that we all should be using Opti 2 oil at 100:1 !!!!! It is very clean and won't gum up the power valve. He also says we should be using this oil in our vintage machines. Comments please!!!
Teddy
Oil questions are like political questions, you will get many different right answers!
For my 2 cents worth, I have always used Yamalube R at 28:1 on the vintage stuff and 40:1 on the modern bikes.
Keep in mind the purpose of 2 stroke oil mix. Not only does it lubricate the bearings and piston but it cools things as well. A 2 stroke will run at 20:1 or 200:1- the difference will be the wear factor on the moving parts. How long do you want your vintage bike to last? Or your modern one for that matter.
Think about this, with the new synthetics for cars available they do not expect you to lowere the volume in the crankcase or drop the oil pressure just because the new blend is superior to dino oil.
Teddy I just picked up a NOS 2002 KTM 200 and use the Motorex oil recommended by KTM. The bottle says mix at 100/1 but the KTM 200 manual says 60/1. So far with 100 miles, the 60/1 works great (a little rich)! The power is unreal from that 200 engine. Think I will add a 9oz flywheel weight to lose the big "hit". Sure is a fun bike though with exception of the file, oops, I mean seat.[}:)]
Kip
I have been riding the KTM 200's since 99 and I have found the best product for controlling the "hit" is the Throttle Cam System. You can view what this does on the website, //www.g2ergo.com You can call the number on the website and talk to the man who invented this. A flywheel weight slows the motor down throughout the whole rpm range, the TCS gives you more control in the first half of twisting the grip.
Rod
...........Optimal=GARBAGE,period........................
Merlin,
Why??? What happened to you???
Teddy
Teddy,
We have used Opti at 70 to 1 with very good results. I have not tried the 100 to 1 mix just because I'm old and set in my ways I think ,chuckle chuckle. Pulled the top end down on my 175 after the 2003 RR ( 200 miles on that top end) and everything had a solid coat of oil on it and no noticeable wear. It burns very clean and thats what we were looking for with our supper trapp silencers and disk setups.
We switched back to Maxium because it is available locally and Opti is not.
Many of the Vinduro group have used it with good results. Speedy has used it for more than 20 years in his bikes and in customers bikes with good results. All his personal KTM's used Opti if they were 2 stroke. ISDT medals were won with it in engines over a long period of time.
That in itself says a lot about the oil.
Merlin what happened that makes you feel that Opti is that bad?
John D.
Thanks Rod, I'll check it out! What oil and ratio do you run in your 200?
Kip
This may make some people cringe, but I have used Pennzoil outboard motor oil at 40:1 for 25+ years. Never have had a motor failure and the power valves on the modern bikes stay clean. I started using the Pennzoil when my boy started racing a lot and between the 2 of us, we went through a lot of expensive oil. I think I pay around $3 bucks a quart now and you can mix 10 gallon of gas.
Definately check out the Thottle Cam System, it is an awesome product.
Rod
Team Honda ran 32:1. Believe it or not...they used Yamahalube R! [:0]I'm sure they would never admit to it though. I just happen to know the guy who was building the 125 motors for Honda up until last year. Yes...you heard correctly. Honda did not build their own engines for the 125 two strokes. They farmed that job out to JMS performance in New Carlisle Indiana. Best 2 stroke engine builder in the country. The reason for the mixture at 32:1 is that it is the best balance of temperature, wear, and ring seal. You actually build the best power at this ratio. Less oil equals less ring seal. After many tests on the best dyno in the county, 32:1 could not be beat for keeping the temperature down and overall power. I run Maxima K2 at 32:1 and have had great luck with it. One thing I would not do is run a modern synthetic in an engine that I intend to leave in storage for long periods of time. I've found that they do not offer the same level of protection from corrosion as the older bean and petroleum based oils. If you ride your bike regularly, I'd stay with a modern synthetic though. Here's another fact that few folks understand. Different fuel/oil ratios alter jetting slightly. More oil equals less fuel to burn. Some guys think that if the bike is running slightly lean, they will just add a little more oil to compensate. This is backwards. Adding more oil will only make the bike run even leaner as now it has even less fuel to burn. Never add more or less oil to your fuel to try and correct for jetting! Jetting should only be corrected with a different jet...not with oil. I would imagine that there will be those who disagree....so this should be an interesting thread to watch as there seem to be so many different opinions on this subject.
Now you opened up a can of worms!!! Three years ago when I went to Miliken, CO for the AHRMA nationals, I bought all sorts of jets and needles for the four bikes I was to ride because Miliken is at 6000 ft elevation. I spent an enormous amount of time ( about a half day)rejetting those bikes to get them to run well and with great power after I got there. Just about everybody was doing the same thing and I was loaning out a lot of jets and carb parts to get people going. Another rider told me that I was wasting a lot of time and energy, just add oil to the gas to lean out the carb. So the next year I calculated how much oil I would need to add to achieve the leaness that was required for the elevation. It turned out that I needed to go from my standard of 52:1 Golden Spectro to about 25:1. I threw in the oil and the bikes ran great!!!! When I got home, I added the required amount of gas to the remaining mix to get back to 52:1 and everything worked great.
I did the same thing at Sandia a couple months ago. Tim hauled my Piner to New Mexico. I flew in from a business trip at midnight, got up at 6:00 and to the Sandia site by 7:00. Threw a calculated amount of oil in the Piner and it started on the first kick and ran like a scaulded rabbit. This made Tim mad because he had come a day early so that he could get his bikes jetted correctly.
Thought you guys might want to hear these stories. Merlin, why don't you like Opti oil!!!
Teddy
I feel like a genius. I have set up my bikes to run Golden Spectro at 35:1 for years no problems. Very little wear. I have a Bultaco 250 Pursang that I ride regulary that still has had the same rings 12 years. Each year I tear the motor down no wear. I always use race gas but that is another can of worms. Todays pump gas is made for fuel injection systems and thier high pressure atomasation.
Funny you should mention oil ratio vs jetting. A couple of years ago I raced at Aztec in Colorado Springs. Prior to the race I wanted to ride some trails around Woodland Park. I asked a local guy at a shop and he echoed what Teddy said. I went from 42:1 to 32:1 and the bikes ran fine. Kinda makes you wonder how much tinkering one could do with pipe/jetting/mixture set ups....and just how bad one could screw something up!
GO PENTON
Rod, Just ordered the TCS, thanks for the input I'll bet it is just what I need for the 200. Really love the bike, just can't believe how fast it is![:p] Kinda makes my eyes water when I am in 6th![:0]
Teddy, My 200 did the same thing. I run Maxama SuperM at 32 to 36 to one. It seems to me the bikes come jetted way rich. Mine drools out goo from the end of the pipe. If thats there its in the exhaust ports also! No goo from my vintage pipes when there jetted right. Inside of end of pipes is dry. Im going to keep running the same ratios but lean out the jetting. Spectro is good stuff I feel but runs a little dirty.
I like Maxima Super M at 40:1 . Super clean and lubes well.
I will admit to using what I think is Optimol. I was using a private labeled 2 stroke Aviation oil called Blue Max Av oil. The oil looked like Opti and the label read like a Optimol label. They recommended 100:1. I recently sold my Aeroplane and had a case of the Blue Max oil left. I have been using it at 80:1 with good results. Sometimes at 70:1 ? 10oz to 5 gal.
Seems to work OK.
Dwight
Dwight Rudder
7 time ISDT / E medalist
8 time National Enduro Class Champion.
............while setting many national drag race records and winning some nationals,pro roadracing/regional championship days as well as my days as a factory Sno-Jet driver/R&D guy we found out the hard way, any engine that will run on 100:1 will run on straight gas,all this hocus pocus alway led us back to Castrol R30 or Shell R100.If the engine is indeed "making winning power" and being raced to win stick with the modern versions (degummed/rust preventing)castor based (Yamalube-R,Maxima 927,Shell R100 or Klotz Benol) oils at 25:1-40:1 ratios,32:1 still is the best for HP vs temp control..................as a shop owner building roadrace,dragrace and mx engines a few customers found the above statement was true after I told them,the hard way!............one customer turned the chrome blue and killed the rings in 2 1/4 mile dragrace passes on a perfect set of Yamaha TR3 cylinders using Redline 100:1,Redline paid to have the bores redone in Nikasil!!! Even Redline knows this 100:1 is crap............on the dyno an 11 second pull on a race ready Honda RS250 turned in to a problem when the engine pitch changed halfway through,turns out the Optimol oil cannot handle the big end bearing pressure,the "pitch" changed because both big end rod bearings were starting to brinnel in to the rod journals............in both cases without any other changes(other than the parts to replace the 100:1 damaged parts) castor based oils were used and no further problems encountered................................
Quotequote:Originally posted by Merlin
............while setting many national drag race records and winning some nationals,pro roadracing/regional championship days as well as my days as a factory Sno-Jet driver/R&D guy we found out the hard way, any engine that will run on 100:1 will run on straight gas,all this hocus pocus alway led us back to Castrol R30 or Shell R100.If the engine is indeed "making winning power" and being raced to win stick with the modern versions (degummed/rust preventing)castor based (Yamalube-R,Maxima 927,Shell R100 or Klotz Benol) oils at 25:1-40:1 ratios,32:1 still is the best for HP vs temp control..................as a shop owner building roadrace,dragrace and mx engines a few customers found the above statement was true after I told them,the hard way!............one customer turned the chrome blue and killed the rings in 2 1/4 mile dragrace passes on a perfect set of Yamaha TR3 cylinders using Redline 100:1,Redline paid to have the bores redone in Nikasil!!! Even Redline knows this 100:1 is crap............on the dyno an 11 second pull on a race ready Honda RS250 turned in to a problem when the engine pitch changed halfway through,turns out the Optimol oil cannot handle the big end bearing pressure,the "pitch" changed because both big end rod bearings were starting to brinnel in to the rod journals............in both cases without any other changes(other than the parts to replace the 100:1 damaged parts) castor based oils were used and no further problems encountered................................
My dear friend MARLIN.
If you use for YOUR reason other oils,...thats fine with me becayuse I never say YOU GUYS have to.
But please dont say OPTI 2 is crap(GARBAGE)That is just not fair.
I am using Opti lubes in my shop and on ALL MY bikes ,including vintage bikes where I cannot get parts for anymore,for over 30 years,without ever having a oil related brake down.Please believe me that as a Motorcycle dealer I can use any kind of oil on the world market,if I would find a better one then OPTI.I have witnessed in the PIONEER chainsaw Factory,the 50 hour non stop test on a chainsaw with opti 2 mixed 300-1.The reason for this test was to find the leanest possible mix in the saws,but still safe because the Timber people complained about the fumes blowing into there faces.After dismanteling the saw there was no wear to detect.
In a other case a customer of mine who used Opti 2 in his 2 KTM,s 500 MX for 2 years,during a conversation realiesed that he had mixed exidently 200-1 not 100-1.And again the engines after open them both for inspection,did not show anything wrong,and the cranks where baded in a good coat of oil.So again,if you dont like it ok,but please dont make 1000 s of users feel they are all wrong.Me included.
BTW.In 1962 I rode my first ISDT in Garmisch Partenkirchen Germany.
Before impound of our bikes I was approached by the OPTIMOL OIL company from nearby Munich,to use there oil-gas mix for free,and some money as a bonus and more money if I would win a medal.
They admitted to me that the mix was 50-1(at a time when everybody would mix 20/25-1)As a poor private entry I could use a good offer like that,and when they said,if your engine blows,we will pay your entire next year racing season plus a new bike,I took the offer.
After a 1/2 hour testing the new mix and adjusting the carb a bit I felt very good.The plug looked perfect.
The always critical cold,wet morning start was a 2 kick affair and the performance incredible.
Endresult was a Gold medal a 2. in class and a17.overall,and a great amount of money in my hands for the GOLD and following advertising.
When in 1969 OPTI was introduced to the CANADIAN market I begun to use it right away and never looked back.What was 50-1 in 62 had been improofed to 100-1 in 69.
Cheers,Speedy------>>>>>Everybody can do what he wants to do-------->>>>>>>>>>.:D:)[8D]
Helmut Clasen KTM
162 Hillcrest Ave
L9H 4Y3
Dundas Ontario Canada
Ph.905-627-5349
[email protected]http://speedy_c.tripod.com
Sachs GP-GS 250-7A reeds
Zuendapp 125 GS ISDT repl.73
KTM 450 EXC Auto.03
Duke spec.Edit,1996
Adventurer 02
..............my name is Merlin,and your chainsaw example illustrates my point perfectly,that same engine would have had the same result with straight gas...............................get it up in the 250 HP per litre zone not 44 and let us know how it turned out.................
Quotequote:Originally posted by Merlin
..............my name is Merlin,and your chainsaw example illustrates my point perfectly,that same engine would have had the same result with straight gas...............................get it up in the 250 HP per litre zone not 44 and let us know how it turned out.................
Let's see , even a modern MX 250 putting out 50hp doesn't put out 250hp per liter. Merlin, you make no sense. How do you figure that a chain saw could survive with no oil in the gas ? A Honda CR 500 puts out maybe 55 hp but at a much lower rpm. Ever hear of oil migration time ? A modified CR500 putting out 62 hp ( which is much higher than a normal Open class bike ) doesn't come close to 250hp. per liter. A 125 would be the closest to this sort of stress. I have seen plenty of 125s running 50:1 and surviving. With Optimol , I was running 80:1 with no problems in my Hodaka 125, 100, Zundapp GS125, Penton Six Day 125 and others. I really don't believe in mixing in such a lean oil mixture but with Opti , I have seen no drawbacks as I have seen in other so called 100:1 oils. OH, I was mixing my Aeroplane fuel at 100:1. Do you think that I would chance running a aeroplane engine on a product that I didn't think would do the job ?
I would bet that the example you stated was a problem with jetting and the fuel itself rather than the oil product. Most drag racers run as lean a mixture as they can get by with. They don't care if it is on the critical edge of tune if they get the low ET. OH, by the way, I wouldn't run Redline in my chain saw either. So we are in agreement there. But don't compare Optimol to Redline. Different stuff.
Cher'o,
Dwight
Dwight Rudder
7 time ISDT / E medalist
8 time National Enduro Class Champion.
...........well Dwight I guess it must be what world we live in,a modern 250 roadracer makes around 80 plus horsepower,works out to 320+ HP per litre(I was being kind before),as for dragracing if you have done it and been successful fill me in,I have done it but maybe I missed something...........run what you want,I could care less.............
Hi Speedy. I was wondering what Opti oil uses for a base stock? Is this a synthetic lube? Is this product available in the US, and if so what name is it marketed under. I have not seen it before. I'd like to thank you for some good advice you gave me a few years back ago at Mid-Ohio. Phil Ketchum introduced us. What to do with rusty fuel tanks was the question I had for you and your advice to use lead shot to coat the tank was most appreciated. Good advice for sure.
Combative isn't he.
No, I never was a drag racer. But have friends that did and do. I had friends who raced H2 Kawasaki to several records back in the 70s and 80s. I still have a friend who is the #2 rated Top fuel motorcycle racer. Chris Hand, Bike - "The Redneck Express". But this is about oil not drag racing. Nor Road Racing. Different usage all together. I won't use a oil that Road Racers use as it is designed for extreme high RPMs and is usually pretty dirty. Most 2 stroke dirt bikes turn less than 10,000 rpm normally and need a clean burning oil so not to clog the spark arrestors and on modern bikes, powervalves.
I am not saying that Opti is the best oil to use but that it will do the job. I see no problem using it. I don't believe in a couple of the other brands that say do the same.
Cher'o
Dwight
Dwight Rudder
7 time ISDT / E medalist
8 time National Enduro Class Champion.
...............I was going to let this rest after the last post I made but one point is being overlooked,a chainsaw was sighted as an example of a products vitrues,it was pointed out this was not a good example. The universal method of consideration in evaluation around engines/racing is HP per litre regardless of end use,period................you will no longer need to listen to my rants on this matter,facts are facts...............................
Geeeeez, I'm glad that's over! Who wants cake?
Dwight,
Please say Hi to Chris Hand.....cool guy, very cool. Does he still have and run the Vance and Hines bike from the 70's?
Ron Carbaugh
And I thought "intelligent design" got people fired up. Interesting discussion though, and interesting to read.
Make mine just a small piece, holiday weight gain and all.
Patrick Houston
Cosby, Tennessee
Hey Dave, while you are up, can I have mine ala-mode, with a scoop of "Rocky Road"? DOH!!![8D]
What a great set of postings! And I thought I knew something, I think I'll just stay with Maxima 927 40:1, Thanks for all the info!!!
Tom Brosius
Thanks for all the imput guys. I quess I can conclude from all of this:
1. I shouldn't use Golden Spectro in my power valve bikes because it leaves too much gummy residue. So now I only need to find out what oil leaves the least amount of residue at any given fuel/oil ratio. I assume the lower the fuel/oil ratio is, the more residue will be deposited.
2. I shouldn't use Opti 2 oil if the engine is being pushed to a power density of over 250 HP/Liter. I believe my 2001 KTM 200 EXC produces around 30 to 35 HP or 150 to 200 HP/Liter, so I can use Opti oil.
3. I should be mixing whatever oil is selected at 32:1 to optimize power because the oil helps seal the rings. The only problem with this conclusion is that all my bikes are jetted for 54:1 and I would have to rejet all my bikes. Also, if a lower fuel/oil ratio does produce more residue, then I am not helping solve my original problem of the stuck power valve.
4. A shot of cake will solve all interpersonal relationship problems.
So I guess I need to find a very clean burning oil designed for power valves at a 32:1 mixture. Please give me your oil selection suggestions and/or tell me why I don't need the 32:1 mixture. The most obvious answer to the last question is that I am an old, vintage bike rider and don't need the 0.01% increase in power that the 32:1 will give me because I wouldn't know what to do with it if I had it!!!
Thanks again guys,
Teddy
Quotequote:Originally posted by firstturn
Dwight,
Please say Hi to Chris Hand.....cool guy, very cool. Does he still have and run the Vance and Hines bike from the 70's?
Ron Carbaugh
No, he is in process of building another bike. About a month ago he had his hand slip off the grip at 220mph and the wind swepted him off the bike. If he had been on the bike as it went through the traps, he would have set a new world record. He is OK, only chipped his elbow and skint his hands some. I think the engine is mostly OK but the frame was damaged badly.
Sharon ( wife and pit crew ) was all excited with the time until someone shouted that he wasn't on the bike. Scared her to death.
Cher'o,
Dwight
Dwight Rudder
7 time ISDT / E medalist
8 time National Enduro Class Champion.
Quotequote:Originally posted by tlanders
Thanks for all the imput guys. I quess I can conclude from all of this:
1. I shouldn't use Golden Spectro in my power valve bikes because it leaves too much gummy residue. So now I only need to find out what oil leaves the least amount of residue at any given fuel/oil ratio. I assume the lower the fuel/oil ratio is, the more residue will be deposited.
2. I shouldn't use Opti 2 oil if the engine is being pushed to a power density of over 250 HP/Liter. I believe my 2001 KTM 200 EXC produces around 30 to 35 HP or 150 to 200 HP/Liter, so I can use Opti oil.
3. I should be mixing whatever oil is selected at 32:1 to optimize power because the oil helps seal the rings. The only problem with this conclusion is that all my bikes are jetted for 54:1 and I would have to rejet all my bikes. Also, if a lower fuel/oil ratio does produce more residue, then I am not helping solve my original problem of the stuck power valve.
4. A shot of cake will solve all interpersonal relationship problems.
So I guess I need to find a very clean burning oil designed for power valves at a 32:1 mixture. Please give me your oil selection suggestions and/or tell me why I don't need the 32:1 mixture. The most obvious answer to the last question is that I am an old, vintage bike rider and don't need the 0.01% increase in power that the 32:1 will give me because I wouldn't know what to do with it if I had it!!!
Thanks again guys,
Teddy
Teddy, Maxima Super M is clean and can be mixed at 32:1 to 40:1 ( I mix at 40:1 ). Dick Leichen , founder of Maxima , told me that Super M is so good that if he could figure out how to get the smell of Castor into it that he would discontinue Maxima 927. If I ran Spectro, I would run at 40:1 for best protection. It does a good job of lubing. BUT, it still is a very dirty oil. Probaby more so than 927 castor.
Cher'o,
Dwight
Dwight Rudder
7 time ISDT / E medalist
8 time National Enduro Class Champion.
My local bike dealer said that Maxima K2 was the cleanest oil for use with power valves. How does it compare to the Super M?
Teddy
Dudes, I've got to defend Golden Spectro.
First of all, it Was Hi-Point brand oil first. Nuff said.
Second, I've used it in my 2 stage powervalved RMX for 15 years and have never had a stuck valve. Yes, a little carbon on piston top (shows the flow pattern). I tear my top end down every second year, slap in new rings and clean the valve mechanism, no big deal. I probably get 80 running hours in two years running Trail Tours.I could mix at 60:1 but run 50:1 with drool out the pipe. I've looked at Golden Spectro SX, it mixes at 32:1 so I would need two bottles for a weekend.
I'm glad we live in America where we have so many choices, so many opinions and we can express them freely. Lets always remember to be tolerant of others,( and their stupid opinions ;)
It's like loving Pentons and not Ho-das, brand loyalty! We tend to stay with what works for us and reject the unknown. Isn't it funny how people get upset or poke fun at other choices?
Just my 2 cents worth, Happy Holidays everyone, Wildman
1975 250 Cross Country, 1974 175 Jackpiner, 1975 125
Hey Guys,
I just logged onto the Maxima site to see if I could answer my last question and I found a very interesting article in their tech section. It talked about exhaust oil drool primarily being created by incorrect pilot jet sizing and air screw settings. Read it at
http://www.maximausa.com/technical/lubenews/springsummer2001.pdf
I found the K2 is a 100% ester based synthetic oil and has better specs than the Super M which has some petroleum based products in it. Oil is broken down into 5 main groups. Groups 4 and 5 are the 100% synthetics with the PAOs in group 4 and the esters in group 5. Anyone using K2?
Teddy
I raced small bores in the California desert where you pegged the throttle and worked the gearbox. I ran Bardahl VBA ($1.25 per can), Penzoil, and Golden Spectro none of which I considered to be exotic. Bottom line is run what you feel works best for your situation.
Quotequote:Originally posted by Merlin
..............my name is Merlin,and your chainsaw example illustrates my point perfectly,that same engine would have had the same result with straight gas...............................get it up in the 250 HP per litre zone not 44 and let us know how it turned out.................
I am sorry that I mis-spelled your name.
Please forgive me for that.Will not be happening again.
Cheers,Speedy-------->>>>>>>>>:(
Helmut Clasen KTM
162 Hillcrest Ave
L9H 4Y3
Dundas Ontario Canada
Ph.905-627-5349
[email protected]http://speedy_c.tripod.com
Sachs GP-GS 250-7A reeds
Hercules 350-7A
Hercules 250-7A
Zuendapp 125 GS
KTM 200 EXC 2003
KTM DUKE 96 Spec.
KTM Adventure 02
Quotequote:Originally posted by behindbars
Hi Speedy. I was wondering what Opti oil uses for a base stock? Is this a synthetic lube? Is this product available in the US, and if so what name is it marketed under. I have not seen it before. I'd like to thank you for some good advice you gave me a few years back ago at Mid-Ohio. Phil Ketchum introduced us. What to do with rusty fuel tanks was the question I had for you and your advice to use lead shot to coat the tank was most appreciated. Good advice for sure.
Hello.
Yes Opti-2 is a syntetic blend oil,utilizing patented additives including gasohol compatibility,and fuel stabilizer.OPTI(first name OPTIMOL)was first developed 1934 in Munich Germany.During the war they where ordered to create a oil with ermergancy running additives which let German War planes which where shot in the belly over England,and run dry,safely return home where they could be repaired and no PILOT was lost.OPTIMOL was able to create this calling it the 3 stage (GENERATION) system.After the war they used there Technology further into the Engine development.From 2 stroke mixes of 20-1 they could,by using there system go to 50-1 in 1960.By 1970 they could run engines under racing conditions 100-1.In the 80s they where taken over by CASTROL.The US Importer-Distributor is in Bellingham,WA under the name INTERLUBE INTERNATIONAL INC.
//www.opti2-4.com
I am using OPTI2-4 in all my vehicles since 1970 in Canada(since 1962 in Germany)
Cheers,Speedy------->>>>>>>>>>>
Helmut Clasen KTM
162 Hillcrest Ave
L9H 4Y3
Dundas Ontario Canada
Ph.905-627-5349
[email protected]http://speedy_c.tripod.com
Sachs GP-GS 250-7A reeds
Hercules 350-7A
Hercules 250-7A
Zuendapp 125 GS
KTM 200 EXC 2003
KTM DUKE 96 Spec.
KTM Adventure 02
Dwight,
Add to the fun even more. Toss in your recommendation for CCI at 20:1
German Chocolate for me, but no ice cream, lactose intolerant, you know. Cliff C
Teddy,
Here is my 2 cents from reading this post and the ones in years past on fuel and oil. We may have more than one reason for the drool on some pipes. Piston port engine's in a high state of tune would exhibit problems with the mix down low in the rpm range. I don t think the piston would shut the intake port off before some of the intake charge would blow back into the air box. I don t think they run very efficient off the pipe and that would further add to the problem. Thats not to say we should not check our carb settings at low speed.
From what we have read in this thread , it sounds like pure synthetic might give us some problems if the bikes were stored for a length of time. One might need to put something like the Marine folks use in each cylinder at the end of a season.
It looks like there are a bunch of variables that have contributed to each persons experiances with oil.
For us to know for sure what would work we would have to all be useing a constant and changing only one thing at a time. That would be hard to do with the group scatterd all over creation.
From this post and the ones in years past it sounds like some oils don t like some of the additives in some of the gas we buy . It looks like it can cause some of the oils to break down.
Golden Specrto has worked for me in everything available at our pumps from 1970 to today and with the LL Avgas. Opti worked for us with todays pump gas and the Maxium Super M has worked so far with todays pump gas.( thats with what ever they add for my market in Florida).
Both the Super M and the Opti burn a lot cleaner than Spectro if thats what your looking for.
It does'nt look like there is a silver bullet that will solve this one for us as a group. Chuckle Chuckle!
John D.