I need one 30x42x0.1 thick main bearing shim to fit my 420. The p/n is 560.30.081.000. Have 0.15 and 0.3 thick shims to trade or will buy outright. Thanks! Also have some 420 engine parts to sell/trade. 828-371-7582
I have some 0.1 thick shims coming from another source. Oddly enough, when I run the part number through Holeshot Engineering's KTM part search database it comes up as a 0.15 thick shim, which is what I got from them when I ordered shims some time ago. The p/n should be correct as it comes from my KTM engine parts book dated 1980. Maybe that is the only shim available through KTM? Anyway, in order to get the proper crankshaft endplay for my 420 engine and the new main bearings I need two 0.1 thick shims and had only one. since I had to order a pack of 10 shims, I will have many extras available for $1.50 each including first class postage.
Sachs, you're shimming behind the inner race of the 3-piece mains, right? Just curious what you're using to pull the races off the shaft ends and how you're pressing them back on without throwing the crank out of alignment.
Are you able to get them off with a typical two-blade bearing separator? Can you get the crank assembly into a press so that you're reinstalling by pressing only on the web on each side, or do you put spacers in between the webs and press against both webs?
I'm in the process of trying to take up about .08mm of excess end play in a '75 400 motor. Seems easiest to go with a center gasket of .12mm material instead of the .20mm standard thickness, and leave the races be. Don't think it will create any tolerance issues in transmission shaft clearances (I hope).
Jon McLean
Lake Grove, OR
Jon, I used a large 2-blade bearing seperator and a 12 ton shop press to remove the inner races of the M30 bearings. Since I am using new main bearings, saving the old ones was not an issue, so I just tightened the seperator on the OD of the inner races were it would catch and set it up in the press, supporting the bearing seperator only. The fit is not real tight as the press didn't even groan when the race started to move.
For reassembly I will support the crank between the webs either directly or indirectly, shimming the gap between the two flywheels to keep the crank alignment intact if necessary. I will check the crank for correct alignment before and after installing the new mains with an indicator.
Ahhh... 12-ton press. Need to get one, right tools make all the difference.
A crank rebuild guy here locally uses the shims-between-flywheels method to press crank assemblies into cases and through the bearing behind the pinion gear, instead of a pull-through with puller method, and has had no problems with it. Thanks for the info.
Jon,
You can heat the inner race to about 275 and put the crank in the freezer. The inner race will drop on the crank shaft. They can creep a bit as they cool so we usually use a piece of aluminum tubing to tap the race solid. We have a jig set up that will hold the crank, supporting it buy the flywheel half the inner race is going on. Al B still had some of the steel plates for Sachs engines used in pressing the crank apart. They should work with some shimming for different cranks. It has a cut out to fit around the rod so the crank is supported properly.
It works well. We found a Sachs bearing race puller several years back . Jake Fisher had some. Before that we had to use the bearing separator. Not a good deal if you have replaced the rod and the crank has to be re shimmed. genuinenos.com has i think the factory Sachs tool.
Extracting & Reassembly Tool
For 100-125cc engine service.
#0676-027-000 ............... $68.00
and the part use with that for M20's
Hi-Point Bearing Puller (photo 1)
Puller tool for Sachs engines.
#HP-203 ............... $45.00
You could have that opened up to fit the M30's.
That way you can work on it with no worries.
I think Kip had one made up several years back and it was 3 times as much as the 2 parts listed.
There is a protective cap you need with any type of puller to protect the crank ends.
We made some up a while back out of tool steel. If enough folks want them we could make up another batch.
Hope this was some help.
John D.
Thanks for the tips and suggestions John. Good info. The heat/freeze method works surprisingly well for tight tolerance when assembling, not so much luck disassembling.
Jon,
I know. We used the bearing separator till we found the Factory tool. It worked but either damaged the shims or if we used it in the ball channel on the races marred the polished surface. I seldom get a new rod kit crank shimmed right on the first try so the separator was not the best solution for us [:I]
John D,