Messages

Thanks Paul, I will take the clutch pack apart, I have 5 of these bikes and even sitting over winter the clutch plates stick together, but riding usually takes care of it but this motor has been sitting for over 30 yrs, I have taken the clutches apart and re-assembled them with out using a detached clutch hub, but what a pain in the butt, so now I have a spare hub just for that, thanks again, going to have a big order for Al, wife is going to see my Visa amount!

Thank you Paul and Larry, it was helpful, when I put it back together I will use locktight with the selector key, this has been fun, always wanted to crack open one of these to see what made them work!

So what I have learned is that if you fiddle around rotating the selector rod right to left to much with your fingers while you have it on the bench you can accidently un-screw the selector key and cause it to come off and then you have a problem which is what I did with another motor that I am playing around with.

Bud, I did end up getting it off, but I am wondering about your method, thanks.
I also was able to get the cases apart, what I found was my selector key laying in the bottom, not sure how it became un-screwed but it explains why I had a shifting issue, now I need to call Al with a parts list, thanks again for all the help.

So is it better to leave the gears in the right or left side case? I am having problems getting the cases apart, bound up right at the crank, the rest is loose, thanks again for the impute, this forum is great!

Well I did put some heat to it and after another try, it came off, thanks everyone, now the cases are on their way to become separated, but, having a hard time getting it separated at the crank, its loose, but the crank is stuck in both sides pretty good, I am gingerly, and carefully working at it but cant hurt the cases, so I will let them it tell tomorrow and see if they magically fall apart in the night! been many years since  have done this, but I am starting to remember why I paid to have it done last time.

Thanks Larry, I think I will, because at this point I don't see it coming off any other way, never had so much trouble getting a sprocket off!

Well, I tried, it is really on there, afraid to use to much force, I am rebuilding the motor, the counter sprocket was the last thing to come off before splitting the cases, I could probably leave it on. but really wanted to leave the gear assembly in the left case, unless I am backwards, done a few Huskys never a Sachs, but I have a few more motors if this one doesn't pan out.

Yes this is a Sachs motor, I knew I forgot to include something, thanks, I will give that a try, everything else on this motor has been a real p
ain to remove.

Thanks for the information Richard, I am not using the motoplat on this motor I am using the bosch.

quote:Originally posted by Richard

The motoplat ignition does not have an internal voltage regulator. If you have a multimeter you could check voltage on any of the lighting wires, just be sure to set the meter to read AC volts. If it is set to DC volts you are not going to read anything. You could see as much as 17 volts AC out of a motoplat at high rpm. Generally, a 12 volt headlight will be alright.


Yellow wire is normally considered as headlight, green for stoplight, and white for taillight. But, you could just as well tie all three together send the output off to the lights or to a voltage regulator and then send the regulated voltage to the lights. If you are going to use the bike on the street, add a rectifier to change lighting voltage to DC and add a battery. The battery will keep the lights bright at idle rpm and just as importantly, keep the lights on if you stall the motor at a stop light on a dark night.

Thank you, sometimes I think I am losing it, I didn't think of typing a search here, I just went out on the inter-web, thanks again, I will do it.

quote:Originally posted by 454MRW

Type in wiring diagram in the search parameters on this forum and you will find both wiring diagrams and wire color coding depending on whether you have a Bosch or a MotoPlat ignition. Mike

Michael R. Winter
I enjoy rebuilding and appreciating Pentons!
1974 250 HS Penton
1976 MC5 400
1978 KTM 78 GS6 250
L78-79 MX6 175-250 KTM's
1976-78 125-400 RM's
2007 CR125R Honda
1977 MC250 Maico
2017 KTM Freeride 250R

When I was revving the bike up, the lights were getting REAL bright, I had a feeling they would blow, do I need to run through a relay? or voltage regulator? jut not sure I have the right wires going where they are supposed to be going, went online to try and find a diagram for Sachs but didn't find anything.

quote:Originally posted by mike carr

Thanks Larry

quote:Originally posted by Larry Perkins

No sealant just gasket.

Larry P

Thanks Larry

quote:Originally posted by Larry Perkins

No sealant just gasket.

Larry P

I was using a 6 volt, I just bought a 12 volt, but I had a 12 volt taillight bulb and it popped

quote:Originally posted by Richard

what voltage blub did you use?

Thanks, I probably should have said that they are both 125 5a motors, now if I can get the lights wired up I will be a happy camper!