Messages

Dennis:
I can't speak for the organizer or host, but I've never been to vintage ride where anybody was all that strict about the iron. You may want to call Al. His number is on the flyer.

Hey,
One thing to keep in mind: when dissimilar metals come in contact, some corrosion will eventually take place and this is almost impossible to prevent. One metal acts as the anode and the other the cathode. This is of particular concern with rims and nipples as they make definite contact and can't be insulated from one another. I know that stainless and regular carbon steel are partularly bad to use in combination. Galvanized and chrome may not get along, but I'm not sure.
All the Best,
Hank

This ethanol-laced fuel has cost taxpayers many many millions of dollars, for repairs to cars, boats, motorcycles, lawn care equipment, etc., etc. This significant cost to the consumer is never factored in and that is really outrageous. Why is this stuff forced on us? Not for the environment - it increases emissions while lowering fuel economy - the only thing 'green' about it is the cash somebody is raking in. It's another sad example, on a long list, of the average American getting shafted so the people who really run things can get richer.

This ethanol-laced fuel has cost taxpayers many many millions of dollars, for repairs to cars, boats, motorcycles, lawn care equipment, etc., etc. This significant cost to the consumer is never factored in and that is really outrageous. Why is this stuff forced on us? Not for the environment - it increases emissions while lowering fuel economy - the only thing 'green' about it is the cash somebody is raking in. It's another sad example, on a long list, of the average American getting shafted so the people who really run things can get richer.

Mike,
Sorry you had that trouble. Maybe the Taiwanese QC department took a holiday. Beats me - the two pairs I've used worked fine. Definitely not show quality, but at the price worth a try. All the best, Hank

Bob,
Google 'Fly Racing Alumasteel Vintage Chrome' handlebars. These are similar to Penton GS6 bars (and other Penton models too, I think.) They have a bit more sweep back. Although the chrome is not very nice, they are cheap, about 25 bucks. It's tough to find a picture of these - the photos usually shown for this line are not the 'vintage chrome' model. Good luck.
Hank

Hello all,

Like Too Close, I'm searching for the right modern mount for HS, enduros, trail riding and dual-sport. The crf250x is tempting because Hondas are generally very well made and this model seems good for eastern woods. But, Jap bikes are not that easy (or cheap) to make street legal, which is really important these days. I hear the KTM 400exc is a great east coast bike, with lots of smooth power, and not too tough to register, so that's at the top of my list. Any thoughts on the 400 exc?

Hank

Doug, Thanks for the tip, I'll do that and report back. Sounds like it might be an interesting history. I'd say this bike got thrashed pretty well at some point.
John, The front fender set me back 5- at Mid-OH. I'm familiar with getting a title through Int'l in Vegas. Did it for a Triumph not too long ago. Cost like 125-. Is that what you do? I'd be tempted to do antique tags which avoids the yearly reg fee because it's permanent, and also there's no inspection required. Insurance is cheap too.
Ted, I have to do the topend so I'll get a look at the paint. The thought had crossed my mind because the Dupli supposedly being ceramic in some way - I would not want it to come loose. It seems to be durable. The insides of the cases were originally painted if I'm not mistaken.
A good friend of mine is one of the owners of Powerseal USA. They plate cylinders with nickel silicon carbide. Anyone have any thoughts on that for a vintage engine? I guess it couldn't hurt. Hank

Doug: Thanks, that's interesting info, I wonder who these guys were/are. Maybe I'll look into it. The only feature on this bike that may be unusual (and suggest some special treatment)is the rear brake which is grooved radially, or longitudinally, not parallel to the axle like some shoes. Both the drum and the shoes are grooved and the it really works - feels like a disk. Anyone seen this before?
Kurt: Thanks for the compliment. My original plan was to leave the bike cosmetically alone and just do the mechanicals, but it's sometimes tougher to leave stuff alone than to redo it, if you know what I mean. I agree, this bike really does handle well. It doesn't do anything wrong - no head-shake, carves corners, changes direction well in the woods - at least at the speed I ride. The chassis seems to over-match the engine, so I'd like to try a 250 or 400, although a 175 suits me well and keeps me out of trouble. I give the Unicross tires credit too. Are you in the northeast? James says there's a ride in NY in May.
Richard: Thanks. Based on what more experienced guys have told me I don't have to worry about the repair. You'd have to take it apart and look closely to see it. I prefer to use the original parts if at all possible, so having repaired cases doesn't bother me.
James: Yeah, I remember we were right next to each other and there were too few Pentons. Keep me posted on that Monroe ride in May. Word has it that Alex may make his ride a two day deal this year. We'll see. We got there on Friday last year. I impressed my brother and friend (on Maicos), when I took the Penton out on the 7 mile woods loop alone fairly late in the day. I had just gotten it back together and hadn't really ridden it before, but she didn't skip a beat and nothing fell off! They said I was over confident (or stupid?).
Best regards to all, Hank

Richard: I got some advice on the procedure from Chicago Jerry and went from there. He uses Marine-tex, but I used JB-weld since it is easier to come by here and is similarly rated - something like 4000 psi, and can handle heat too. The epoxy seals the crankcase area and prevents stress concentrations at the sharp-edged pits. The rot went pretty deep, but the crank and bearing carrying structures weren't really effected. The areas were thoroughly blasted clean (with silicone carbide), and washed with acetone. To make applying the JB easier, I made a guide plate which was bolted on the case half. This helped form perfectly flat mating surfaces on the cases. Several coats of JB were applied with a plastic putty knife and then smoothed down with a Dremel and finished off with Duplicolor ceramic engine paint. It took some time but I believe this repair will last forever. If you or anyone is undertaking this type of repair and has any questions about what I did, please let me know. Regards, Hank

Update one year later: This '77 GS6 175 gave new meaning to the old adage 'ridden hard an put away wet', but it has been successfully resurrected! Finally got her back together and out sometime in September, for Snoop's NY ride (parked next to James).
Still need to do some sorting out but I really love the way it rides. It's just a great bike. Also, the Metzeler Unicross knobbies work great. Thanks to Al B. and others for help and advice. All the best, Hank

Doug: I did a '72 sdr a few years back. Took a chance on ebay and got a nearly complete bike with good nickle, which was a huge head-start.
I had a '73 mx too. These bikes go pretty good, are built really well, look great, and I think share some DNA with Pentons. Good luck!

Rocket:
Thanks for the offer. I'm going to give the epoxy repair a try. If that fails, I'll be in touch. By the way, the email did not show up. Thanks again, Hank

Guys,
Thanks for all the response - I knew I was in good company. I got this Penton from the guy who bought it at auction, but besides missing some of the accumulated hay, it hasn't really been touched til I started on it last week. The plate and registration are from NY 1978. I'm in SE PA (near Valley Forge)and know it's fairly easy in PA to get an antique tag - one lifetime registration and no inspections. But I'm not sure if that will work for dual sports and enduros. The brake stay looks professionally made on a mill, kinda like the Carl Cranke version. Back to the engine - it's now apart and partly cleaned up - I made the tool to press the crank out from the clutch side and it came apart easily (let me know if anyone can use this little press.) The crank and bearings look amazingly decent and being on a strict budget, I'm tempted to use them, but will decide later. I did talk to Al and know what's available. Anyway, my plan is to blast the mag side crankcase area today after work and see what it looks like. There's a spot on the low mating surface where it close to the edge, so I've got my fingers crossed. I'll get the clutch side later. Jerry: I would like to learn more about the repair, and will post a picture or two as soon as I get the chance. Thanks again for the help and interest. Hank

Was here with the GS6 the first year. Great people and riding, check it out.