Messages

Thanks VitaminT. Didn't think of silicone. I'll buy the genuinenos part. The part # is different from my Penton/ Sachs manual, but looks the same. AS long as the O.D. is 10mm.

This a Image test.


http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j346/bowerm50/th_P1010010-1.jpg

Bob,
Visually and phonetically perfect...

As a new member to the POG, I had never met Dane and was ignorant of his history of great accomplishments. Reading and seeing the wonderful prose and photos of him from his loved ones and friends is is heart-warming and at the same time heartbreaking.  He obviously fought ALS as he did in hard-core ISDE  competition... 100%

High compression heads. OK guys, that's what I'm looking for. Literally, I've misplaced my iron head  in my garage somewhere (obviously I have to clean it up-it's been a while).  Funny you should mention Puch. That was my first Motocross bike I actually raced. Any you guys know where I can get one, let me know. (High compression head of any make that will work).
Thanks,
MB

Gordon, Lew, Forrest, Dennis, everybody, Thanks, I'm feeling much better! I looked and bought the alloy barrel/head because I figured it would be lighter and better cooling here in Az. When I talked to Doug over the phone while he was doing the bottom end, he questioned why I would use the Iron barrel in Az. because it's hot here. Then he told me a funny story that when he was racing enduros on his home turf (I'm assuming an iron barreled Woodsman) that after a while, it would get hot and to lose power (also assuming after a couple hours WFO). He said he would purposely kinda zigzag through water crossings to get as much water splashed on the barrel to cool it back down, and it worked. Anyway, the alloy barrel fits on the cases, but the studs for the iron barrel are short ( the alloy barrel/head are long). The nuts on the studs hold the head and barrel down on the alloy. Thanks again for all the info. I'll post some photos on the process once I get all the parts sorted out.

P.S. God Bless Dane Leimbach and family

High compression heads. OK guys, that's what I'm looking for. Literally, I've misplaced my iron head  in my garage somewhere (obviously I have to clean it up-it's been a while).  Funny you should mention Puch. That was my first Motocross bike I actually raced. Any you guys know where I can get one, let me know. (High compression head of any make that will work).
Thanks,
MB

Gordon, Lew, Forrest, Dennis, everybody, Thanks, I'm feeling much better! I looked and bought the alloy barrel/head because I figured it would be lighter and better cooling here in Az. When I talked to Doug over the phone while he was doing the bottom end, he questioned why I would use the Iron barrel in Az. because it's hot here. Then he told me a funny story that when he was racing enduros on his home turf (I'm assuming an iron barreled Woodsman) that after a while, it would get hot and to lose power (also assuming after a couple hours WFO). He said he would purposely kinda zigzag through water crossings to get as much water splashed on the barrel to cool it back down, and it worked. Anyway, the alloy barrel fits on the cases, but the studs for the iron barrel are short ( the alloy barrel/head are long). The nuts on the studs hold the head and barrel down on the alloy. Thanks again for all the info. I'll post some photos on the process once I get all the parts sorted out.

P.S. God Bless Dane Leimbach and family

First, I need to say how sorry I am to here of the passing of Al Born. I unfortunately never met Al, but through the POG newsletter, I got to feel like I new him. Huge loss for the Penton community.
 
The subject of this post is about the "wax-like material" in the "starter slide assembly" (cable actuated choke) of a 27mm Bing carb. My Sachs is running like Al B. mentioned in his Tech notes on his website. ie.

"Bing Carburetors with side choke: Check the starter slide (part #0686-100-000) to make sure that the wax like material is still on the bottom of the slide. This material seals off the opening of the small orifice in the bottom when the choke lever is not being used. If this material is missing, it is the same as having the choke lever open all the time. EXAMPLE: the bike will start right up and run great when engine is still cold - as soon at engine warms up, it will start sputtering, blubbering, and billowing smoke out of the exhaust pipe."

So my question is, what is this "wax-like material" and how can I replace it, because it's no longer there...

KTM's first Super-Cross win. As we POG members know, this would not have happened without  the Great John Penton. The catalyst of this wonderful progression. The Ohio- Austria mix, just amazing....

I got my Penton/Wassel started on the third kick. Good chance it hadn't run in thirty-some years. Felt great. After some clutch adjustment, I rode it about a half block until it died. Couple kicks and it fired up and rode it back. Check the plug and it was of course oily. Dropped the needle, cleaned the plug, (has great spark). Anyway, I kicked quite a few times and got it (barely) running for a short time, only seems to be much more rich. The plug is a Champion L8HS.  
The Manual says to use a Bosch W 260 T1 which I can't find or even cross reference. Need some suggestions on plug type, jetting, Timing...

Thanks for ant info,
Mike B.

I'm starting back with the assembly of my Wassell Trials bike after frame painting. Luckily I finally found the head and other parts (coil, bolts, etc.) in my attic! It's kind of like a archeology dig in my own garage/ attic. It's been over 15 years since I took the "Mud Lark" apart. The POG community  has really motivated me on this project. Anyway, I got the triple-tree/ Stem back on. (After having to buy a new headstock bearing. In the disassembly, I lost ONE roller out of the cage.) At this point, I've got the the fork tubes drained and the springs out. Mike G. says Gordon B. is the man when it comes to the infamous Metal Profile forks. I weigh around 200 lbs. I'm looking advice on oil type/ visc.  volume and springs. I found the Greeve's website for the MP forks. (Way cool new Greeves trials bike also.) Any advise is appreciated.

http://www.greevesmotorcyclesltd.com/forks.html

I purchased a 74 Mud lark from a vintage dealer/scam artist out of S.F. Ca. way back in 1995. He  showed me pictures of the Wassel Trials bike, and convinced me that was what I was buying. When it was delivered, it was of course, the infamous (Super Hunky's declared "2nd worst dirt bike ever produced and sold", MUD LARK with blown main bearings and seals). The local vintage dealer here in Az. told everybody that "I had bought total junk". Well, it's sat in pieces in the garage ever since. But, about 6 months ago I decided to turn it back into a "Wassel Trials Bike". Yes ladies and gentleman, I started back with my 2nd mistake (trying to restore a pretty much worthless old motorcycle for the heck of it). I've sand-blasted and shot the frame. Sent the bottom end to Doug Wilford, (Great Guy), and like an idiot, I bought an alloy head and barrel to replace the iron barrel, ( thinking it would be better cooling here in Az.). 3rd mistake. (so far)  At the least, hopefully this post gives some entertainment to you folks out there. At the most, maybe somebody can help me, (and not make TOO much fun of me!) I don't blame anybody but myself...

Mike Bower,
2003 KTM 450 EXC
1992 Aprillia Climber
Rickman MKIII BSA441
and a Muud Larch