Messages

I have the Works Performance, Hagon, and Noleen on various bikes. The Noleens are two or three times the money, but four times the shock!

If you are just doing light trails riding, Hagon or Works are fine.  If you are really gonna mess with the bike, spring for the Noleens. I intend to fit Noleens on all my vintage bikes from now on.

Grunbay

John T. Gurley
Falmouth Maine

Here are the pics - I hope!




John T. Gurley
Falmouth Maine

Nothing?

Anyone have a 175 engine for sale?

John T. Gurley
Falmouth Maine

Sorry, the engine in question is a Sachs 6B.

Thanks Kip. I think I have the shims where they belong, but I'll double check. I'm not sure what you mean by "behind the rising curve", but I'll look it over.

John T. Gurley
Falmouth Maine

Thanks for the tip, Dale.

Have you seen a flat curved plate aluminum brace? I'm looking into the one you kindly linked, but perhaps someone has seen (or has for sale) one of the plate aluminum ones.

John T. Gurley
Falmouth Maine

Coming from an OSSA background, I separately assembled the cases with one shaft at a time for the purpose of checking end play with a dial indicator. That whole business of measuring the depth of the casing was too fastidious for my shaky middle-aged hands!

Thanks for the help.

John T. Gurley
Falmouth Maine

You're right, 0.08mm is what I get.

Sorry, I have a standard depth gauge and a metric standard!

John T. Gurley
Falmouth Maine

I have just put a new MZ-B into my '72 Jackpiner and need to change out my bulbs to 12V. The rear is easy, but does any one know a crossover from a CEV 128 6V-30.30W sealed bulb to a 12V sealed bulb?

John T. Gurley
Falmouth Maine

I bought a pair of 175 Jackpiner cases on Ebay (I know better - I really do). They are pretty heavily corroded. It seems to me that I can use JB Weld for the pitting in the bottom of the transmission area, as that is not too structural. The pitting in the crankcase area is more concerning. There is no perforation of the casing in that area, and the mating surfaces, while nibbled on the edges, still have 3 or four mm of mating surface intact.

I have not had a lot of luck finding a decent set of used Jackpiner cases, so I would love to get your thoughts on:

1. Should I forget it, and keep looking?
2. Does JB Weld stick to beadblasted magnesium?
3. Should I lay some JB Weld inside of the crack area to rebuild the mating surface?
4. Does this much corrosion indicate that perhaps the structural integrity of the magnesium is impaired, leading me back to #1, above?
5. Have you ever successfully saved cases as bad as these, and your motor lived to tell the tale?





Maybe you have a set of cases (older black motor 175) or an engine you would sell?

Thanks for looking.

John T. Gurley
Falmouth Maine

I looking for a pair of decent Jackpiner 175 cases. My engine is a 1972 "Black Motor."

I don't know if later cases will fit, perhaps one of you may.

I would also buy a reasonably complete engine assembly if I can't get the cases I need - got one?

John T. Gurley
Falmouth Maine

After collecting the requisite panoply of shims to get my endplay within tolerances, I finally started putting the engine together (thinking it's the last time) but I seem to have done something wrong with the starter ratchet because the ratchet is continuously clicking as I turn the layshaft. I followed the somewhat obscure directions in the Penton manual and the Clymer book, but something is not right.

It seems pretty simple: Put in the shim, place the spring and the ratchet on, insert shaft (being certain to not displace shim) turn 3/4 to right, lock under kick stop, assemble cases.

Has anyone experienced this before that could possibly suggest how I have put this together wrong?

John T. Gurley
Falmouth Maine

I have seen a number of pictures here and elsewhere on the web of Pentons with a nice aluminum fork brace. I would like to get one of those for my 1973 SD with 32mm forks.

Does anyone have one they want to sell, or know where I can buy a new/used one?

John T. Gurley
Falmouth Maine

I am new to the forum. I've lurked around during most of my project waiting to get the go ahead from the registrar. Finally, I'm in!

With the shims I have, I can get my crank end play down to .008". Is that good enough?

My other choice is to bring it down to 0.8mm - a bit tighter than the .10mm stated in the manual.

I assume that a tad loose is better than a tad tight - right?

I've gotten my other shafts to play nice!

As an enforced lurker for over two months, I have to say that this forum is truly a jewel!

You folks are terrific.