Messages

My friend has a dial indicator and won't be home until the end of next week.  I will set the timing with the final adjustment with the loose stator and check it with the dial indicator to see how close I came, hopefully by the end of next week and will post the results. Also no chance of the plunger flexing at all.  Thanks to everybody and their input!!

Carl Mendenhall

Richard,

I don't have a dial indicator, and I have wondered about that, and
that is another reason to question the extreme rotation of the base and stator to get the 3.2mm BTDC. I just now thought of a guy I know that might have one.  I will try to get in touch with him.

 



Carl Mendenhall

Paul,

I have rotated the base plate to every position possible and only
one will allow all three screw holes to align. I also would like to hear from the Sachs gurus on this!

Thanks,

Carl


Carl Mendenhall

This was hand written in my Penton manual for a 125. The range is 3.0
to 3.5mm.  I am not sure who the hand writing was from but it was copied, so the manual was updated I guess!

Carl

Carl Mendenhall

Paul,

I am using a plunger tool screwed into the sparkplug hole to find the TDC of the piston to get the proper 3.2mm BFTDC timing. To get the 3.2mm, I have to have the base plate adjusted to the extreme CCW movement. Also the stator has to be adjusted to the end of its CCW slots to get the 3.2mm. I always question when an adjustment is put to one extreme or another. Am I missing something?

Carl

Richard,

By rotor I meant the stator. It has the word rotor imbedded in it. It has the three screws to hold it to the base plate and it is also movable along with the base plate.  Sorry that I used the wrong term.

Carl

Carl Mendenhall

Paul,

The engine idles down like it should, the air screw affects the idle speed. When I got into it I found the Motoplat base plate was loose.Two screw were backed out about 3/16" and the other was just
loose. There is NO oil around the seal. There is some metal dust that I cleaned out, so I do not see a need to replace the seal.
Since both the base plate and rotor have slots to allow rotation, I assume I should get the base plate to get a rough timing adjustment then fine tune it with the rotor adjustment. Is there a better way?
I have a 5/64 drill bit that fits the aligning holes perfectly!

Carl

Carl Mendenhall

Thanks for the response.

Carl

Thanks Paul, I will try these suggestions and post the results

quote:Originally posted by Paul Danik

Carl,

   Does the engine run properly and idle down as it should? When you take the side cover off is there any oily residue in the bottom of it? Does slowly turning the air adjustment screw in and out have an effect on the engine speed at idle?

   If the seal is indeed bad, it can be replaced without splitting the cases. Also, be sure to use a brand new seal, not a "NOS" item. While the seal is out try check the condition of the crank where the seal lip will ride, if it is rough possibly some cleaning up of the area would be prudent.

   If the engine is running perfectly, and if slowly turning the air adjustment screw in and out has an effect on the engine speed at idle, and if there is no visual evidence of the seal leaking, you may consider putting in a new grommet and see what happens.

Hope this helps.
Paul

Carl Mendenhall

My mistake for the wrong section

quote:Originally posted by Larry Perkins

Carl, might get more response on this in the general discussion section as opposed to wanted/for sale.

Carl Mendenhall

quote:Originally posted by Cal Alexander

I've used both of these on Six Days and the 26mm mikuni is the easiest to convert. Its somewhat limited in performance however. If your going to use the bike for easy riding the 26mm works fine. If you want performance or plan to do any vintage racing its best to go with the 30mm but the conversion process is a little more difficult.

Thanks for the info. I am not going to race it, I just want a good running 125.

Carl

Carl Mendenhall

Tom,

This is Carl Mendenhall from the Trask Mt. club, Denny Bershaw and
I are coming over also. I will be riding a 1973 125 Six Day that I bought from Denny last year.  I am really looking forward to riding it. I am going to do the road ride on Thursday then the trail ride.
Doug Wilford did the engine for Denny several years ago, so I know the
engine will be good.
Looking forward to seeing you.
Paul we will miss seeing you!!!

Carl

quote:Originally posted by Tom Penton

I'm heading over to Pendleton/Athena, Oregon to check out the Hodaka Days and Bad Rock reunion ride. (June 25-27) I'm taking my son Danny and maybe do some trail riding. The reunion ride itself is closed entries, pretty popular...  But I'm just looking forward to reminiscing.

If any readers are going ... I'd like to say hello!

Tom Penton

Carl Mendenhall

Thanks Tony, I have the manual also. There has to be a parts breakdown somewhere I would think. Not many had a center stand though.   Kawacarl

Thanks Tony, I have the manual also. There has to be a parts breakdown somewhere I would think. Not many had a center stand though.   Kawacarl

I have a "73 125 Six Days 6 speed that the rubber grommet that holds the wires coming through the crankcase from the Motoplat will"pop" out after being ridden for a while with a loud "poof". The grommet is not in very good shape but I can't figure out what is causing this. This is a Doug Wilford built engine that has less than 300 miles on it. It just started doing this when I rode at Hodaka Days last year. Any ideas anyone? Could the ignition side seal be bad?

Carl

Carl Mendenhall