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Messages - pastmxa

#1
Penton Talk / Painting Magnesium cases
November 25, 2024, 01:14:25 AM
Hi everyone, to properly address the issue of oxidization on magnesium there are several great articles on the internet. Some of the best articles are on aircraft maintenance websites.  What I have done is take the motor apart to address the issue of corrosion thoroughly inside and outside the cases. I clean the cases with gunk brand engine degreaser, a new unused plastic brush, and or a new unused plastic scaper since our mag cases are rather soft. This process avoids introducing any dissimilar metals or contaminants that may get entrapped in the mag cases and be the cause of future corrosion or cause adhesion issues for paint or epoxy later on.  I soak the cases in a 5 gal bucket of very hot water and redo the process until the cases are very clean.  I then empty and clean well this same bucket or a new one and pour in a mixture of 1 gallon Zip Chem products Calla 855 heavy duty Alkaline cleaner with 3 gallons of boiling hot water and let soak for an hour.  I rinse the cases and dry the cases with dry compressed air or paper towels. I tape off all the bearing surfaces then blast the inside and outside of the cases in a blasting cabinet with crushed walnuts. I use a max of 110 psig. You will end up with beautiful dull silver magnesium.  Remove tape. Use dry compressed air to clean the cases and put in the oven at 200 F for an hour to get rid of all moisture.

I know this probably sounds like overkill but what you're doing is sweating out the oil that the cases have soaked. I spray Prekote Surface Pretreatment or Dow 19 Chromatic Conversion to minimize future corrosion. The Prekote spray you can buy in a quart spray bottle which should be plenty and it's less toxic then the Dow 19 stuff for sure. You can use high temp epoxy such as JB Weld twin tubes that include a red tube and black tube, dries gray, for smaller pits inside the motor.  For the bigger pits I like filling them with the tig mg filler rod material AZ92. If you have pits, cracks or other type of damage inside or outside your cases you can now tig weld by using argon and mag filler rod AZ92. Then clean the cases with some more calla 855 by wiping some on where I have done repairs and then rinse with water. I then respray with Prekote or Dow 19 Chromatic conversion.  I then paint the inside and outside of the cases with none etching epoxy primer then your final color of choice over the none etching epoxy anticorrosion primer.  NEVER use etching primer or paints on magnesium since they creat corrosion. 

You can buy all these items from Skygeek.com website. 

You really need to treat the cases like they are a magnesium part of an aircraft to get lasting results. As an alternative you can find shops that do aircraft maintenance and they will do all these things for a very reasonable charge including tig welding, surface treatment and painting.  Even small local executive airports have repair shops or know of one.  Be sure to read and follow all the instructions of the products you buy.
#2
Penton Talk / 1974 250 shift drum position
July 08, 2019, 09:06:24 PM
Thanks for everyone that replied, Al, Jerry & Kip.  POG is fantastic!  The replies all indicated that the position of the rotary drum installed doesn't matter.  I had assembled the cases and found that neutral between 2nd and 3rd gear and thought I had assembled it wrong.  Turns out there is a neutral between 2nd & 3rd when assembled correctly.  The drum can be in any position when assembled as long the correct shift fork is on the correct gear cluster and on the correct disc that guides the shift fork and is welded to the shift drum.  

Also of interest: I bought a new wiseco piston from Al Buehner.  Al told me to view the Wiseco website and read up on the clearance between the piston and the exhaust port bridge ( 74 250 silver case).  The clearance needs to be .003.  Also, for the lubricating holes on the piston for this same exhaust bridge, Al also recommended referencing the Wiseco website.  The Wiseco website recommends drilling 2 holes in the piston for cooling and lubing the exhaust bridge  / piston area.  The holes Wiseco recommends are 1/16 inch each.  The website indicates where on the piston to drill the holes.  The Penton manual recommends one hole in this same area.  

Again, thanks to everyone that helped out.  Invaluable assistance!
#3
Penton Talk / ported 74 1/2 penton
September 05, 2018, 11:17:09 PM
Quotequote:Originally posted by JP Morgen

It would be interesting to see how the porting work matches up to the "Carl Cranke" porting specs. I can send a copy if you are interested. I believe Bob or Robert Haag is the guy,  he now is the Koni shock guy in the US.

Hi JP, if you could send a copy of the article or specs. I'll measure the specs to my cylinder.  The porting on my cylinder doesnt look too radical.  It seems more like a slight clean up.  My email is [email protected], many thanks, RS
#4
Penton Talk / Oil leak/ J B Weld
September 01, 2018, 12:56:39 PM
Hi everyone, to properly address the issue of oxidization on magnesium there are several great articles on the internet. Some of the best articles are on aircraft maintenance websites.  What I have done is take the motor apart to address the issue of corrosion thoroughly inside and outside the cases. I clean the cases with gunk brand engine degreaser, a new unused plastic brush, and or a new unused plastic scaper since our mag cases are rather soft. This process avoids introducing any dissimilar metals or contaminants that may get entrapped in the mag cases and be the cause of future corrosion or cause adhesion issues for paint or epoxy later on.  I soak the cases in a 5 gal bucket of very hot water and redo the process until the cases are very clean.  I then empty and clean well this same bucket or a new one and pour in a mixture of 1 gallon Zip Chem products Calla 855 heavy duty Alkaline cleaner with 3 gallons of boiling hot water and let soak for an hour.  I rinse the cases and dry the cases with dry compressed air or paper towels. I tape off all the bearing surfaces then blast the inside and outside of the cases in a blasting cabinet with crushed walnuts. I use a max of 110 psig. You will end up with beautiful dull silver magnesium.  Remove tape. Use dry compressed air to clean the cases and put in the oven at 200 F for an hour to get rid of all moisture.

I know this probably sounds like overkill but what you're doing is sweating out the oil that the cases have soaked. I spray Prekote Surface Pretreatment or Dow 19 Chromatic Conversion to minimize future corrosion. The Prekote spray you can buy in a quart spray bottle which should be plenty and it's less toxic then the Dow 19 stuff for sure. You can use high temp epoxy such as JB Weld twin tubes that include a red tube and black tube, dries gray, for smaller pits inside the motor.  For the bigger pits I like filling them with the tig mg filler rod material AZ92. If you have pits, cracks or other type of damage inside or outside your cases you can now tig weld by using argon and mag filler rod AZ92. Then clean the cases with some more calla 855 by wiping some on where I have done repairs and then rinse with water. I then respray with Prekote or Dow 19 Chromatic conversion.  I then paint the inside and outside of the cases with none etching epoxy primer then your final color of choice over the none etching epoxy anticorrosion primer.  You can buy all these items from Skygeek.com website.  You really need to treat the cases like they are a magnesium part of an aircraft to get lasting results. As an alternative you can find shops that do aircraft maintenance and they will do all these things for a very reasonable charge including tig welding, surface treatment and painting.  Even small local executive airports have repair shops or know of one.  Be sure to read and follow all the instructions of the products you buy. Bbbbbrap!
#5
Penton Talk / M25 crank shaft bearings
June 19, 2018, 08:37:58 PM
received the bearings, they look ok, FAG brand
#6
Penton Talk / M25 crank shaft bearings
June 13, 2018, 06:38:01 PM
6/13/2018

Hi, guys, rebuilding my 74 1/2 250 and I called Barlett in AL.  They found plenty of these bearings at a supplier of theirs called Consolidated Bearings.  The brand they are sending are FAG and have a plastic cage.  Just an update FYI in case anyone is looking for these bearings.

Rgds
#7
Penton Talk / ported 74 1/2 penton
May 25, 2018, 10:31:54 PM
Thanks Paul, I'll read the material.  Looking forward to riding the 250.
#8
Penton Talk / 1974 250 shift drum position
July 04, 2019, 05:27:10 PM
I'm about to assemble the 6-spd trans but I'm not clear on the position of the shift drum in relation to the shift forks.  

If someone could please give me some pointers on the position of the shift drum and where on the shift drum rail each shift fork goes.

Add'l info: The shift drum has no pin protruding, making it a 6 spd drum.  Original silver engine cases. The lock out bolt that is in the right case for the neutral detent is an M6 x 20mm long. I've looked and read the manual that I bought from Al Buehner but it is not clear.

My cell is  if it is easier to communicate via cell.

Thank you very much,
Richard
#9
3/25/19

Hi everyone, just some quick fyi, for 1973 250 trans bearings, parts manual mainshaft & countershaft-split needle cage bearings p/n K21x25x13D are available from KTM-current p/n is 0405212513 $10.34;
countershaft K25x29x10 current KTM p/n-0405252910 $5.98;countershaft K20x24x13 current KTM p/n 0405202413 $7.77.  

I just bought some from KTM World.com and they had them in stock.

Hope this helps, take care, have fun and ride forever!

Richard

#10
Penton Talk / ported 74 1/2 penton
May 25, 2018, 09:09:35 PM
Hi everyone, I am rebuilding a 74 1/2 250mc.  I took off the head and cylinder this afternoon.  Upon inspecting the cylinder I found the name Steve Haag, FMF, 8/74.  The ports look modified.  Anyone know who Steve Haag is?  Wondering if he modified the motor and or ported the motor.  The motor looks really good. Piston, cylinder, rings, clutch plates, etc look like they were very lightly used or just rebuilt.  Piston had 71 on the top and a 1 in the center of the piston dome.  Going to measure the cylinder and piston to see what bore, diameter and if it is within tolerance.  I'm really impressed with the build of the motorcycle, mag cases, hubs, brake backing plates, chromoly frame, etc.  All the components were works stuff on other brands.  High quality materials.  
Thanks