Messages

I have a 79 or 80 420. Will your decals be available for this bike? I'd be interested in a couple of sets if they won't fall off like the factory decals. Thanks, RB

Is NOS good enough? I think I have some new Baja and/or Muders in blue. Also have some yellow, red, and white.

Thanks Ron,
Are you planning on attending the AHRMA regional in Sherman this Sunday? If you're there, look me up! I've worked at the trak for a couple of years, and will be "event coordinator" for the race this weekend.
RB

If your 250 is anything like my 420 from the same year, you will find that a 520 chain is too narrow, and a 530 is too wide. The proper chain size is 525. Don't run a 530. It will FIT on the sprockets, but the chain will move from side to side because they are narrower then the chain. Your chain guides and sprockets will quickly be ruined from the side-to-side slop. Also, the plastic part around the countershaft will hit the chain if it runs to the inside. Then when you get the proper 525 chain after running the 530, the alloy rear sprocket will quickly wear out. I speak from personal experience, you may hav ebetter luck.  

Solution? 520 sprockets are available. Buy them and be done with it. I now have a new 530 o-ring chain with about 20 minutes ride time on it, a new 525 chain with two races on it, a broken botton chain guide, and a worn out sprocket that was in good shape before the 530 chain was put on.
RB

Banke used to make lots of performance pipes for mx and flattrack. They are still in business. http://www.bankeperformance.com/ They aren't in Ft. Worth anymore though. I would be willing to bet that if enough guys got together, they would build more of these pipes.

Davey Durelle [email protected] does most of the suspension work for FUSA pro flattrackers using modern MX bikes. I think he may do the suspension for the KTM team. He does good work.

 

here's a link:
http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/reference/troubleshooting_guide/orange_peel/index.cfm

 

Walt, I'm pretty familiar with N40...been helping the owner with the track for a couple of years. Last race (modern) i prepped and ran the water truck. The first couple of seasons it was open I did the start/finsh flags. Sad part about it is the only laps I've ridden on the MX track have been on my ATK dirttracker! The track is in really good shape this season. Some of the problem areas have been fixed, and it should be a great race. We're hoping for a good turnout.

 

What is the group's general opinion of Ebay teaser posts? I have a pair of Fox Airshox on Ebay now, but figured anyone here who was looking for Penton/KTM parts will find them anyway, and I'd rather not annoy anyone if the groupe doesn't like them.

 

I've got two possibles.
1. coil damamge by kicking it over without a ground path through spark plug wire (no spark plug, or plug not grounded when it was unscrewed) I remember reading somewhere the motoplat coils will arc internally and be damamged if the spark plug lead isn't grounded. If you have a known good coil, try it as a substuitute.

2. Same as everyone else. Bad ground path between stator and coil. You can try running a dedicated wire from a stator bolt to the coil mount. This gives a direct ground path without requiring the frame and engine to complete the circuit.

 

I neglected to mention in my Tank Mung cure...Buy the Berryman's B-12 in the liquid cans, NOT spray. You should find it at Wal-@#$%. The next rusty steel tank I get, I'm going to follow up the BB/B-12 shuffle with a bottle of Naval Jelly and more BBs.

 

I did the tank mung cure. Basically it is a couple of cans of Berryman's B12 and the biggest box of BBs (6000) I found at Wal-@#$%. Dump a can of Berryman's in and about 1/2 the box. Then shake for a long time. I removed the petcocks and plugged them with corks. As for re-li9ning the tank...it never was lined in the first place, so I left it. If it concerns you, go to a boat supply house and buy some epoxy resin and catalyst. Epoxy will stick to just about anything, and doesn't seem to be affected by gasoline at all. The only time i had an experience with Kreem was when I worked as a tech in a Harley shop and someone brought in a bike that wouldn't run from all the Kreem in the carb. I wouldn't use it.

 

Whoops...PLASTIC fenders. No real desire to go with metal.

 

Dave, I have a 420...you don't want it, just ship it to me and I'll take it off your  hands so you don't have to deal with the lack of an oil check plug. Just kidding, but I will make you a copy of the owner's manual for the cost of postage and copies. Otherwise...

1. Oil check plug: there isn't one on mine, but the manual shows it located just in front of round part of clutch cover above the horizontal fin on the front of said cover. I plan on drilling/tapping mine for a plug before I put it back in service.

2. Drain plug: on right side of engine case behind footpeg at the lowest point of the case side.

3.  Fill plug: About an inch or two above shift lever on clutch cover there should be a large plug with allen head.

Manual calls for 1.4 liters 20W oil or automatic trans fluid. Any good motorcycle gear oil ought to be fine. i usually use Bel-Ray gear saver in all my race bikes, and I've never had a problem.  












 

There's only one hole in the top of the carb and only one slide.  The part I'm asking about is on the side of the carb. there's another adjusting barrel cast into the outside of the carb above and in front of the "tickle" plunger.