Installing 35MM Forks With Tapered Tops

Started by KJDonovan, January 08, 2012, 09:54:04 AM

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KJDonovan

I am pulling together a 74 Six Day and have a question on the 35MM forks with the tapered tops.  I have the correct triple trees, the top one has the tapered hole, but upon sliding the fork tubes into the trees they stop on the top tree about 10MM from the top.  It looks like that's where the taper stops, but I just want to make sure before I snug everything up.  Everything is perfectly clean so it's not any kind of an interference issue.  Does this sound right?  I searched though other posts on this can couldn't find anything that addressed this.

Thanks,

KD


Kevin J. Donovan
Foster, Rhode Island
72 Jack Piner (My Ride)
72 Six Day (Wifes Ride)
73 Yamaha AT3
71 Suzuki TS125 (Project)
Kevin J. Donovan
Foster, Rhode Island
72 Jack Piner
72 Six Day
73 Hare Scrambler
74 Hare Scrambler
74 Mint

brian kirby

The cap pulls the tube up tight in the top clamp, then tighten the lower clamp.

Brian
Brian

chicagojerry

brian's right. but i usually take it one step further. i put a dab of never-sieze on the upper tapered fork tubes. it helps the next time i take the forks off.     chi jer

KJDonovan

Thanks Guys, they are done and I did remember the never sieze.  Awesome rake on the 35MM forks!

KD

Kevin J. Donovan
Foster, Rhode Island
72 Jack Piner (My Ride)
72 Six Day (Wifes Ride)
73 Yamaha AT3
71 Suzuki TS125 (Project)
Kevin J. Donovan
Foster, Rhode Island
72 Jack Piner
72 Six Day
73 Hare Scrambler
74 Hare Scrambler
74 Mint

Rocket

I don't agree with the never seize on the taper, the taper is suppose to hold tight so the forks do not flex in the triple tree since they don't have a pinch bolt in the top clamp.  I worked in the polyethylene industry for almost 41 years in the maintenance field and we got away from putting any never seize or lubricant on any taper fit because it interfered with proper holding of the tapers.  It is just like the taper on the flywheel on the crank, it is not the key that holds it in place, it is the taper.
Just my opinion.
Rocket

chicagojerry

its just my opinion on the never sieze on the forks but i would never use it on a taper such as the flywheel. in addition to the taper on the forks there are also pinch bolts on the lower clamp to hold it in place. i have had some upper fork tubes so galled together with the upper triple clamp that i thought i would ruin them trying to get them out. hence me using never sieze on them now. on the flywheel you have to be concerned with the rotating mass breaking free from the taper, not so on the fork tubes.   but again, thats just my opinion but i certainly respect your's rocket.  
chi jer

t20sl

I'll agree with Rocket if bike is going to be raced.  Back in the day I put a dab of very fine lapping compound on the taper of Pentons and others to keep fork flex at a minimum.  Today you see 2 pinch bolts at every clamping point and they are even clamping larger forks with more surface area.  Hence less flex.  Of course I rode mainly enduros and smacking trees are more apt to misalign forks.
Ted

joe novak

NEVER-SIEZE on the fork tapers.   I agree with Jerry...  Also, remember that the fork cap just seats the taper into the triple clamp.  It is NOT a coutershaft sprocket nut which needs to be really tight.   I know the fork cap looks like a big nut, but it is also aluminum which is a softer material, so don't overtighten.  joe

KJDonovan

Guys,

I didn't mean to instigate any controversy with this post, my primary question was on the amount of standoff between the top of the fork tube and inside of the top triple tree.  The taper on the ID of the top tree I have stops about 10MM before the top, so that's where the fork tube stops.  I did use the never seize on the tapers, primarily because of the dissimilar metals (aluminum / steel) being in contact with one another to prevent corrosion.   I'll also use it on the top valve nuts for the same reason.  The particular bike I am working on is for another member and he was clear that it would be used mostly for cruising around the block a few times a year and some light trial riding.  If it were a completion bike, I would probably follow Rockets advice and skip the never seize on the tapers.  

 Thanks for the input,

Kevin
PS I figured I post of picture of the project below.  I'll try and post some more as the project progresses.

http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/KJDonovan/74SixDay/?action=view¤t=RonRestore100812003.jpg

Kevin J. Donovan
Foster, Rhode Island
72 Jack Piner (My Ride)
72 Six Day (Wifes Ride)
73 Yamaha AT3
71 Suzuki TS125 (Project)
Kevin J. Donovan
Foster, Rhode Island
72 Jack Piner
72 Six Day
73 Hare Scrambler
74 Hare Scrambler
74 Mint

gooddirt

The 10mm looks about right, tubes DO stop short of the top of the triple.