73 125 motor

[Bob Bean]

Whats a complete 73 125 motor worth nowdays?
It is stuck from sitting..  Dont know much more about it..

Bob Bean

1986 ISDE Italy
1987 ISDE Poland
1989 ISDE Germany

[Cal Alexander]

I've see reasonably priced complete and undamaged Sachs motors go for up to $700. Where it is locked up it would likely push you under the $500 range. By the time you do the top end, crank and replace the bearings a buyer would be into it at least $900 or so if they do most the work. Just my view on it.
You also see guys asking outrageous prices for these even with chain case damage. There was a Sachs motor on eBay recently with a repaired case that the guy was asking over $2,500 for. Every once in a while you get lucky. Last Year I picked up a complete locked up Sachs 6A motor with the bosch ignition for $100. Just finished rebuilding it for a Berkshire project. Hope this helps.
If you decide to sell it, shoot me an e-mail.

[Paul Danik]

Bob, you probably already know what I am going to explain below, but just in case...  The checking and testing all will factor into what the engine is worth, in my opinion.

When ever I look at any Sachs engine, either in a machine or not, I always pull the ignition cover even if it looks good from the outside.

Occasionally the cover is still damaged from the chain as well as the engine case. Also need to inspect the end of the crank as the nut holding the flywheel on is a left hand thread and I have seen a perfectly good looking engine with the end of the crank snapped off from trying to loosen the nut in the incorrect direction. There can also be damage to the end of the crank or the threads from work done in the past, can be a real mess.

Those engines can usually be bench tested as far as shifting, turn the sprocket by hand as you shift the tranny with your other hand, can't say that you can tell if it is perfect, but you can get a decent indication as to what is going on inside. You can do the shift testing even if the top end is locked up by removing the clutch as mentioned below, then test the shifting.

While you have the ignition cover off you may be able to grab the flywheel and feel if the piston wants to move, I have used chain vise grips tightened carefully around the flywheel to get what seemed like a tight engine to break loose, some oil poured down the plug hole never hurts.

It never hurts to pull the clutch cover off and see just how the oil looks and see if there is any indication of water being trapped inside. While you have the clutch cover off it only takes a minute to pull the clutch off and see just how everything looks and turns. When you lift the clutch off be sure to check that the grooved washer from the three piece bearing under the clutch isn't sticking to the underside of clutch and drops off into wherever those things disappear to.

Doug Wilford always recommended that one does not try to open the bottom oil drain plug as the threads just might come out of the case with the bolt, plus occasionally a person might remove the wrong bolt in the bottom of the engine allowing the kickstater spring to move and requiring a disassembly of the engine.

In my opinion, a Sachs engine with a good ignition cover, undamaged cases, good end on the crank shaft on the ignition side, clean oil and no sign of water internally, that shifts nicely thru the gears, and with the two ends of the mainshaft by the sprocket both intact, is getting to be a rare bird. They are probably worth more that they fetch when comparing what the repairs to a damaged engine would cost.

Hope this helps...
paul

[firstturn]

Nice engines  are getting harder to find.  That is why I try to buy NOS engines when I find them.  I was lucky to find a nice 125 Sachs engine that Doug Wilford had restored back in 2006 and had all his notes.  It is a nice engine.

Ron Carbaugh