85 KTM w/ PVL and Bing

[AndyL]

The 75 Jackpiner I have was getting lonely, so when a (somewhat) local KTM dealer had an abandoned (3 years and not paid for) bike sitting in his shed, I took it off his hands.

The 85 KTM 250MX has a brand new PVL on it (dealer installed it three years ago) but it appears to me that they have the timing mark lined up with the wrong arrow (one arrow for CW rotation, the other for CCW rotation of the rotor).  This might explain why no one who looked at it in three years could get it to do anything except backfire.

The PVL instructions I found say that there is a tool that should be used to remove the rotor.

I have never let not owning the proper tool for the job stop me before, but......

Do I really need the tool?  Where can I get one?

Second question:  The #54 Bing on the 250 has a #355 slide in it that has a smile worn into it.  The Bing Agency says they can get one, for a price, but it will be better than a month.  Where else can I find a #355 slide?  (If I cant come up with one I will end up swapping to a 36mm Mikuni).

Hopefully, the Piner wont pick up any bad habits from the 85 KTM.  It is bad enough that I have to keep Piner on one side of the shop and the Hodaka's on the other.



Andy

[Wrecker]

Before a knowledgable gear head answers Andy's questions I would like to add one.
What is the deal with the smiley face on the slide? Mine also has the smiley but the surface feels smooth, how does this cause a problem?
My suspicion is, if the slide was miked it would not be as smooth as it appears. Correct?

[jhardin]

Andy;I was told you have interest in hodakas, if you are interested there are 13 hodakas in central ill. for 1000.00 package deal only . 309 -647-3009. ask for dan.

john hardin

[TGTech]

Andy,
You most definitely need to use the correct type of puller to remove the PVL rotor. It doesn't necessarily have to be the one that we provide, but it must be a bar type puller.

The way that the rotor is constructed, if you use a jaw type puller on the outside diameter of the rotor, you will pull the rotor apart.  

As long as you use the two 6mm threaded holes CLOSEST to the center of the rotor, you should be OK. Don't use the pair that are near the outside diameter of the rotor, as that will also result in the destruction of the rotor.

Dane Leimbach
Penton Imports Co., Inc.

[AndyL]

Thanks for the responses.
Dane; I did use a bar type puller to get the rotor off the crank. And also used a couple 6mm bolts on the inside holes because the outside holes just didnt look right (good guess).

The bike does fire now and will run for a bit with a shot of gas down the carb.

John; I do have a Hodaka addiction (3 complete race bikes and MANY more motors) and appreciate the tip.  I will call Dan today.

Wrecker; I dont know what causes that smiley face [)] to be worn on the slide but the one I have is bad/un-usable [xx(].  And like you I would like to know more.........

Andy