COLOR BLIND

[Rain Man]

Just curious what color the chromolly frames are and do you use Lacquer or Enamel when painting.

[Doug Wilford]

PJ 1 KTM Silver Grey Epoxy Spray is the best color match for your frame.  Have fun!!:)

[DKWRACER]

And by the way ,Raymond, do not Postulate yourself to "junior" New Penton Owners are given this heed, this forum has a quality about it...There is no "inner circle" .....

With Dreams comfort memories to spare

[Dennis Jones]

Hey Doug,

What paint do you use on the Sachs engines? The one you did for me looks sooo goood.

Dennis Jones

[Doug Wilford]

Dennis;
Auto Zone-  Dupli-Color Engine Enamel "Cast Coat Aluminum DE 1650"   I tried alot of different ones before I found this one.   It is the closest I could find to match the original.
Doug

[Rain Man]

Thanks Doug, I ordered 2 cans today.  Any suggestions what to use on the black engine cases on a Jackpiner?? Flat black dosent look right. Seriously I am color blind![:I]

[crash carden]

Hello Raymond, a great match for the Jackpiner black engine paint is Dupli Color High Temp. engine paint 500 degree"low Gloss Black". It looks great and is a good quality paint. After getting the engine cleaned and sanded I first primmed it with gray primmer,then gave the engine two coats of the black. Also for the Penton pipes I use Dupli Color high temp.engine paint 500 degree "High Gloss Black" a great match and holds up very well. No primmer on the pipe just two even coats of the 500 degree High Gloss Black. Don't buy their 1200 degree paint, it has a brown tint to it and does not look right for the Pentons. The 500 degree will hold up just fine and it looks like the factory colors. Also when you go to put the pipe back on the bike cover it with  some plastic bags or saran rap to keep from scraching up the paint on the pipe and frame as well. I have used this paint on both my "73" 250cc Harescrambler & "73" 175cc Jackpiner Pentons, and everyone says it looks like the factory paint.I ride these bikes in all conditions and terrain,this paint stays on and cleans up nice. Hope this helps you out,have fun and GO TEAM PENTON! Crash Carden

[gooddirt]

ray  I have painted a frame for a 6-day in the pj1 ktm silver , it is a very good paint . It flows good and you will not get runs or drips to easily. I would use this paint on a race bike it is a hard paint and easy to touch up. BUT IT IS NOT a color match for the stock  paint . This is the way my eyes see these colors.[B)]

[Rain Man]

Thanks Crash, that was my next question about the exhaust pipes. The Best part is the loco parts boys have both of those right on the shelf.  I forgot how much of a PIA removing the exhaust pipe can be on painted parts, and same with installation.  
   I'll find out soon enough how well it all holds up to bottomless blueberry bogs and pressure washing too. yeebaa!!!

[crash carden]

Hello Rainman,I forgot to mention that before you paint your Penton pipe you should remove the spark arrester and also remove all the old fiberglass packing. Then you need to burn out the pipe to get all of the old carbon build up and rust out of it. The way you do this is get some fire wood and build a big enough fire so you can lay the pipe in the middle of it so it will heat up evenly.When you build the fire let it burn long enough that you have a nice bed of hot coals and a good fire still going, then lay the pipe in the middle of the fire. It will heat up and smoke and burn inside, leave it in the fire and let it all burn out. After removing it from the fire and it cools down I lay an old peice of carpet on a cement floor and hold the pipe by the curve of the pipe,sort of like a walking cane. Then I tap it up and down on the carpet, and also I use a rubber hammer to tap on all the sides from top to bottom. By doing this you will knock all the old burnt out carbon and rust free from the inside of the pipe.This process will clean out all that build up and let the engine breath properly. You may have to repete the tapping a few times to get all the carbon out of the pipe. Of course I use an old peice of carpet so I don't beat up the end of the pipe while tapping it up and down, plus it makes cleaning up the mess easy. Then you can sand the pipe down and repaint and repack it with new fiberglass.I buy my fiberglass packing from Al Buehner's Supply Co. PH. 216-651-6559, he has it made speical for Penton pipes,only $14.00. It comes in a nylon pouch that slides in the pipe over the stinger rod with a nice tight fit. Then when you run the bike a few times the pouch will melt and burn away and the packing will expand in the pipe and give a good tight pack of fiberglass, and the proper back presure for the engine. This type of packing works very well, and is easy to use. I have done this process to all my Penton pipes with great results. This process is worth doing,it makes the pipe like new again.Hope this helps you out. Crash Carden GO TEAM PENTON!

[Rain Man]

I new I shoulda bought a bigger wood stove  [8D]  We got heat treat ovens at work, I'm gonna try to arrange to do it there, I dont think its gonna need to be cherry red, Any suggestions for a temperature??
 I know the guy thats been running the furnaces since 19shoe,shoeba, shoe, will know!!  Pipes are wicked thin ya know!!  Oh ya,   do you know if anybody makes the "header or curved piece"of hexaust peep for the 175  motors??
 Raymond

[rd400pi]

WOW!  Pipe and Paint tips all in one email thread.  THIS is why I belong to this group.  Thanks Crash, Doug and everyone!  



Mike Husted
72&74 SixDays
76 MC5 250

[crash carden]

Hello Rainman,Mike, glad I could help you guys out. As for a temperature, I did my pipe burn out at night so I could keep a close eye on the color of the pipe as a temperature guide. When the pipe would go from smoking out the ends to fire shooting out the ends,I would then remove it from the fire and let it burn itself out.At this point the pipe was some what red, but not cherry red. Then put it back on the fire and repeted this process for 25 to 30 minutes,maybe longer. You will know when the pipe is burnt out cause it will no longer smoke or shoot flames out the ends.I used a long handle pitch fork to move the pipe in and out of the fire, that seemed to work fairly well for me.I can't realy say a temperture for your heat treat guy to go by. As far as the header part of the pipe being reproduced you might check with Karls metal fab shop. Their should be info. on this website somewhere about his products.Hope this helps you out good luck. Crash Carden " Go Team Penton"