Shifter Drum Removal - How???

[KJDonovan]

Greetings,

I am in the process of rebuilding a 72 JackPiner (black engine) and have just finished splitting the block halves, and removing the shifter shift quadrant and ran into a problem.  In reading my owners manual it says the next step is to remove the shifting drum (I've already removed the shifter drum bushing from the other side) , then remove the remaining gears with the shifting forks attached.  Problem is, I cant seem to figure out how to remove the shifting drum without pulling the all the gears and forks off.  This is not something that I want to pull apart (the gears) unless I absolutely have to.   Anyone out there got any ideas on how to get this bugger off without hosing up all the gears?

Thanks In Advance!

Kevin
[?]

Kevin J. Donovan
Foster, Rhode Island

[Kip Kern]

Kevin

It will pull out if you release the latch at the bottom of the drum.  The latch can be pulled with a screwdriver or you can use your finger by sticking it through the left case opening.  Once pulled, pull back on the drum and it will come out.

[KJDonovan]

Thanks for the advice Kip.  I finally got it out late last night.  I finally figured out why I was having so much trouble.  When I split the cases everything (gears, shift drum, crank) stayed in the left side of the case.  Now I have a bigger problem, how to remove the crank from that side.  I'm thinking of making up some kind of holder for the case out of steel then pushing it out with an arbor press.  I don't have the special tool the manual talks about but I am guessing the objective is just steady pressure in lieu of banging on it with a hammer.

Kevin J. Donovan
Foster, Rhode Island

[Auto5guy]

Kevin

I have rebuilt a couple of KTM engines by pressing the crank out on a large screw press exactly as you describe.  I just blocked the engine case around the crank, place a piece of wood on the end of the shaft so it won't get damaged and hold the bottom end of the crank as I press it to make sure it doesn't hit the floor.  It really doesn't require much pressure to get out.

You may know this but it is very important to not press the crank back in by pressing the opposite side of the crank.  This could cause the cheeks of the crank to squeeze out of tolerance.  To get my engines back together I put my crank in the freezer for about 2 hours and baked my left case half in the oven at 250 degrees for 15 minutes.  After I put a little lube on the main seal the crank easily slid into the case half and gave a satisfying clunk when it hit bottom.  Within a couple minutes the temp equalizes and a press would be needed to separate them again.

Hope this helps

Matthew


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