Transmission Vent Hose Routing

[wildman]

I can't seem to find any previous posts on correct vent hose location. It may be me or web bugs? Could someone please enlighten me as to the correct AND best way to route my 75 250s trans. vent hose. I presently have it looping up the engine frame brace and domn in front of the airbox ending below the swingarm.
Looking at the dirt clinging to the end of the hose made me think about alternate (probably the stock way) termination..  Didn't it use to go up by the coil? Thanks for any suggestion (concerning vent hoses!;) Wildman  
PS what about ignition cover vent hose too, where best to end up?
PSS What about Bing carb overflow vent tubes? I have a long carb vent tube to try to keep tickeled gas off what used to be paint on my engine cases. I wonder if it affects carburetion because it can't necessarily drain and vent at the same time, and only one vent on my old Bing. Maybe one of the T vent conversions would be better.  
Hey, it's cold, snow blizzard outside, no riding for months, I can't help it if I feel the need to VENT!

1975 250 Cross Country, 1974 175 Jackpiner, 1975 125

[Lew Mayer]

Wildman, I run my trans vent hose up into the frame breather tube on my JP. When running enduros, we wanted to keep it up away from any water during stream crossings.

Lew Mayer

[Big Mac]

Wildman,

My '77 GS6 has the breather-frame backbone setup, which includes a small stubbed tube out of the bottom of the lower side of the breather section, up above the carb. The water-proof setup was to have the tranny vent hose run up and plug onto this tube, with a Tee in it to catch also the ignition vent hose. A stock '77 MC5, with the boxed non-breather backbone, came to me with the tranny vent tube just run up, strapped to the frame above carb level, and looped back down a few inches. The ignition vent on the MC5 ran back under the cylinder fin, up the brace above carb level and left a bit long to loop back down a couple inches. Seems that was stock?--you'd have to run pretty deep creeks to get water in them that way.

The Bing carb tickler overflow doesn't piddle out the carb's side vents. The tickler holds the float down, and lets the bowl flood until it overflows the tiny brass "standpipe" in the bottom of the bowl. The standpipe is hollow, just dumps out the overflow through the small hole next to the bowl's drain plug. To keep the piddle off the cases, you're gonna have to fashion a tiny-tiny drain line from this eeensy little hole, down over the side. Be a man! I say let yer Bing piddle!

Mac

[Dennis Jones]

Be aware that if you connect your vent hose to the stub on the bottom of the frame backbone and your the kind of guy that likes to wash under the tank real good or even remove the fuel tank for washing some of the water that enters the frame will run right into your tranny. Been there, Done that [)]

Dennis Jones

[wildman]

Thanks for the good ideas, Pentonites. I appreciate it. I like to look at my Penton and find little details like this to improve. I just got done JB welding in the little guide for the slide in my Bing carb. It was a little loose; new slide, needle jet and jet needle, new sieve screen and bowl gasket. I even replaced the little spring that connects the float and float needle. I found a stash of Bing slides in a box way in back of a H--da dealers warehouse. Does $5 sound fair?  Wildman

1975 250 Cross Country, 1974 175 Jackpiner, 1975 125

[Big Mac]

Bing slides that have "smiley face" wear on them make great paper weights, but they leak past enough air at idle to make them worthless for anything else. A stash of NOS slides for $5 is the bargain of the century (if they're for the common 36-38mm #54 carbs), as the Bing Agency gets something like $90 each for new ones.

[Rain Man]

But Mack, who the heck lets their bikes idle ??

Raymond
 Down East Pentons