Head/cylinder stud removal

Started by Steve Minor, October 11, 2001, 08:00:32 AM

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Steve Minor

I had a hell of a time removing the head/cylinder studs on my '77 400 GS6. The 10mm allen bolts came off easily but the studs remained in the cylinder. I finally used red locktite to temporarly "glue" the allen heads to the studs and finally got them out as one piece. Any reason why I shouldn't epoxy the allen bolts to the studs so future removal will be easier?

 
Steve Minor

john durrill

Steve,
I think your talking about the studs that go all the way through the cylinder and into the engine cases. It would be better to leave the studs in the engine cases. The material The cases's are made of is much softer than the studs. Every time you remove them the threads wear a little. Sooner or later the threads in the engine cases will give out. Think thats why the factory used studs instead of bolts in that spot.You can double nut the studs to remove and reinstall them when you must.
 Hope this helped,
John D.

 

Steve Minor

Hey John.....it did help....thanks....Now if I can just "free up" the stuck motor, I'll be farther along in my restoration project. This Penton (77 400 GS6) sat out in the weather for a number of years and it seems the motor is "frozen"...I think I can free it up with liguid wrench and patience...any other suggestions?

 
Steve Minor

john durrill

No ,
does that mean the cylinder is still on?
If so just take it easy and dont rush it.
try to get the piston to move both ways a little at a time and keep putting the liquid wrench to it. Dont rotate it more than a very small amount. If a ring end pops out in a port you are in real trouble
Bumping the top of the piston gently with a block of hard wood may help. THE GENTLY IS IMPORTANT! or you could mushroom the piston and be in deep stuff.

 If the cylinder is still on You might try bolting it back down ( with the head off ).
 It will be much easier to get the piston free and moveing.
 John D.


Edited by - JOHN DURRILL on 10/11/2001  10:25:18 AM

Steve Minor

Yeah John, the cylinder is still on and over the piston. One more problem I'm having is seperating the head from the cylinder. I don't want to use a screwdriver as a wedge, so I'm tapping the cylinder with a rubber mallet...GENTLY...I'm afraid I'll break off a fin...any suggestions?

 
Steve Minor

john durrill

Just hit the horozontal edge and you could use a hammer and a hard wood block. Or try a wood wedge between the clylinder and head. Its a feel thing ( how much force to use ).
Not knowing how much Exp. you have with turning wrenches , caution is the better part of valor lol

 

Steve Minor

Thanks again........I'll keep you posted on my trials and tribulations.

 
Steve Minor

john durrill

Steve,
found this add surfing the net. the guy has 77 400 he is parting out.
 http://www.eurotrashcycles.com  
John D.