Whoops

[chkitout]

I am new also and posted my first post to wrong part of the forum. Sorry about that.

Original Post 125 Restoration

I just recently decided to restore my 1972 125 Six Day bike which has been in semi storage for the last 10yrs. I am the orginal owner and still have manual and most of the orginal parts. The bike is in fair condition but since it has been rarely used for the last 10yrs and very little the previous 10. I am in the process of just cleaning it up at this point and examing it thourghly for what has to be done to get back in operation. I am hoping that someone here has gone through the process already and might have some words of advice or suggestions on the best way to proceed with this project. I am interested in knowing any pitfalls that I may be facing or suggestions anyone may have that will allow me to complete this project end up with decent bike once I am finished with it. Thanks Walt

Thanks again

 

[Chris Brown]

It helps to decide what it's intended purpose will be. If you plan to race or show, you will need to replace or upgrade many of the components, like springs, shocks, bearings, seals, cables, top end, tires, seat, bars, spokes, brakes, chain and sprockets, and etc....

You're right, first thing is to clean it up, decide what you want from it and start a list of things you know you'll want to restore. In many cases many of the parts can be restored and re-used. The bikes are very well made and quite durable. And very easy to work on. Things just make sense on them.

A complete restoration (usually what's needed unless it's been stored indoors after VERY little use)involves complete disassembly, then polishing, plating or painting EVERYTHING. Then reassembly.

Let us know what you're up for...
Chris.

Here's my two so far: http://w3.one.net/~bely/73penton78ktmchrisbrown.html



Edited by - Chris Brown on 11/30/2000  11:07:16 PM

[Larry Perkins]

Chris has good advice there on looking at what you have and getting a plan of attack before you go headlong into a money pit which happens too many times in this hobby/sport.  
   
A very important thing to eye with bikes that have sat a long time is crank seals.  I have seen a lot of people including myself with my first vintage find spending money getting bike ready and prepped with fresh topend only to discover at the first start of our new steed that it has bad crank seals and has to come further apart.  Big bummer! A pressure test will save you heartache later.  Another big one with a used Penton is does it have spark?  If the Motoplat is bad a good used one is going to be $100 to $150 and a new one which is rarer all the time is going to be about $200.  A PVL replacement will be about $300.  This is often a determining factor for us on the question should I part this out or make a runner of it?
   
Some things that I see on a lot of small Pentons may not apply to yours as it sounds like it has not been run alot and may be a survivor bike.  Most of the ones we encounter were USED and then put away.  Generally the basics are this:Fork seals and wipers, cables, new needle jet as with wear they tend to ovalize, new slide if a decent amount of U shaped wear is seen on old one, carb clean, new filter if old one shows any sign of rot or deteriation, airbox removal and inspection and sealing of any leaks or possible future ones in thin areas.  We used to do this one in the day to the brand new ones that we were going to race.  Naturally tightening of all nuts and bolts and change of all fluids.  Most of the Sachs topends we see need boring.  Again the majority of what we see are well worn and were ridden.  It often takes two sizes to get a Sachs clean because they eggshape over time.  This is due to the pin being off center which makes it bear harder on the front of the cylinder. Have a pro look at the roundness of cylinder before assumming that the next oversize piston will work and order the wrong one.
   
ONE LAST CAUTION to all that work on Sachs and KTM Pentons.  Both bikes have two bolts under neath bike on motor.  One has a normal head and the other is an odd shaped one.  Never ever remove the funny shaped head one.  Unless you woke up that morning and thought Today I would like some major unneccessary grief.  If you remove it the kickstarter spring will unwind and the cases will have to be split to fix it properly.  I have seen several complete overhauls that were just broken in and getting their first oil change where this was done and it left a very unhappy Penton owner.
   
Sorry to be so long winded but I hope this helps a bit.  If I can help further or you need any parts please feel free to e-mail me at [email protected].



Edited by - Larry Perkins on 12/01/2000  10:01:18 AM

[Chris Brown]

Both my KTM motors got new crank seals, mag side anyway; very easy to replace. The 175 was running erratic, leaning out, thought it was going to blow up. I just did the other as a matter of course once I got a puller. Great time to clean out the flywheel magneto too.
However, I couldn't get the seal out on the clutch/oil side on my 175. Only thing I can figure is to split the cases. Any advice here?
Chris

 

[Larry Perkins]

Chris,

I have not tried this on the seal you speak of but I have in the past had decent success in removing ornery seals with a spring removal tool or a modified version of this.  Again I don't know if it will work on that seal but it is a real help in mag side crank seal on Sachs motor.

 

[Chris Brown]

Larry,
If I remember, I couln't even get to the seal. There's a bearing in front of it on the crankshaft, and I counldn't get the bearing out.
Oh well, doesn't seem to be a problem at this time. When they go though, the thing will blow smoke like crazy.
Chris.