Improve Front Brake

Started by Keith Meatyard, July 24, 2011, 06:09:51 PM

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Keith Meatyard

Just got the 73 Jackpiner back together, and have noticed that the front brake just doesn't have much stopping power.  The shoes were in good shape, as well as the drum.  The shoes seem to fit the drum radius fine. I believe the cable is an original.  With all slack taken on with the adjusters, when stopping, I can pull the lever all the way to the grip and it just kinda slows down the bike, nothing like a modern bike.  Are the original cables subject to stretching under pull?  Would a new aftermarket cable improve the stopping?

Thanks

Keith Meatyard
Keith Meatyard

chicagojerry

the penton brakes work very well for a vintage drummed  bike. i would take your cable loose on both ends and make sure that it operates smoothly and then if necessary, move your actuator lever on the brake backing plate one notch further back on the shaft.that will put a little "preload" on your brake shoes so that they will start to engage sooner before you run out of lever room at your handlebars.
good luck.      chi jer

454MRW

On very important thing to always do, expecially on penton front brakes is to center the brake plate and shoes when installing the front wheel. Loosen up the front axle and the brake plate anchor strap, then roll the bike or rotate the front wheel and sharply apply the front brake to center the shoes and plate in the wheel. Either have a helper hold the brake lever tight, or zip tie it tightly to the handlebars, and tighten the front axle and the anchor strap and you will have much better brakes and a cleaner release once you make your final adjustments to the cable. Mike

Michael R. Winter
I enjoy rebuilding and appreciating Pentons!
1974 250 HS Pentons-1980 KTM 175-400'S
1975 Can Am 175 TNT & 77 250 Black Widow
1979 Husqvarna OR250 & OR390
1976-78 RM & 77-79 PE Suzuki's
1974 CR250M 07 CR125R
Michael R. Winter
I enjoy rebuilding and appreciating Pentons!
1976 Penton MC5 400
1977 KTM MC5 125
1978 KTM 78 GS6 250
L78-79 MX6 175-250 KTM\\\'s
1976-78 125-400 RM\\\'s
2007 CR125R Honda
1977 MC250 Maico
2017 KTM Freeride 250R

garrettccovington

Maybe the smarter members can chim in here, if I'm way off base.  But I threw my brakes into a pot of boiling water, to get all the old grim off of them.  Didn't keep them in for long, just wanted to loosen up any oil or greese that might have gotten on them.  They seem to work fine now.

G

72 six-day
79 KTM MC80 250
72 six-day
79 KTM MC80 250

tomale

I have to say that I am not all that impressed with the aftermarket shoes being sold for any bike. I think they are too hard, they will wear well but do not stop very well at all.. I took my wheels to a local brake specialist and he took my shoes and put a better pad on them, they were then arched and the drum was cleaned up to make sure it was round. It did not cost me much more than the cost of a set of aftermarket shoes.. they stop so much better now, and yea, once i have taken a wheel off I am careful to center the hub again.. just like was describe above. You can't go fast if you can not stop fast too..

Thom Green,Still crazy after all these years!
76' 250 MC5 (orginal owner)
74'250 hare scrambler (project)
74' 1/2 440 maico
78' 440 maico
72' cr125 Husky (project)
74' TM125 suzuki
93' RMx 250 suzuki

Thom Green,Still crazy after all these years!
74\\\' 1/2 440 maico
70\\\' 400 maico (project)
93\\\' RMx 250 suzuki
2004 Suzuki DL1000
1988 Honda Gl 1500
2009 KTM 400 XC-W

Keith Meatyard

Thanks for the tips, guys.  I will pull the wheel back off and apply all of the suggestions made here.  I'll let you know how it turns out.

Keith Meatyard
Keith Meatyard