Kickstarter Woes

[Jdbglover]

I am on the final leg of rebuilding my '76 Jackpiner, and now I have developed kickstarter problems.

1st when you push down on the kickstarter, the kickstarter rotates down but does not engage the engine and as the kickstarter returns you do not hear the rachet gears in the kickstarter works as the kickstarter returns.

2nd if you push/pull (very slight movement)the kickstarter shaft you can hear the kickstarter shaft rachet and kickstarter gear click, as the kickstarter rotates down, but again no movement at the clutch/engine.

Any Help, Ideas, Tips would be great.  I am not looking forward to splitting the cases.[V]

PS I did not remove the kickstarter bolt on the bottom of the engine.


Thanks

John

[Kip Kern]

John

Get ready to split the cases.  You either have the KS spring in the wrong hole in the KS ratchet (there are two holes), or the spring is not hooked in the case properly, or there is a 1mm washer missing.  It could be one of many things.  Make sure you have reread the requirements in the engine assembly shop manual prior to doing the work.  Also, once done assembling the KS assy in the cases, rotate the KS shaft a whole turn (360 degrees) prior to setting the KS stop bolt.  All is pretty easy especially if you have the manual.

[Jdbglover]

Kip,

Thanks for the response.  I am was hoping for a mystical chant and then three strong wacks with a rubber mallet.

The manuals that I have are a Penton 1974 engine and chassis manual and I also have KTM engine only manual print date of 8/75.  My question is would a 1976 manual cover any major differences or provide better tips?

The question also remains who deserves the three strong wacks with the mallet, the engine or myself...


Again Thanks,

John

[Big Mac]

John- I recently split cases and went through a '73 250 engine and a '76 250 engine, using a '74 250 manual. Innards are almost identical with exception of the shift drum and some of the shifting linkage. The kickstarter mechanism were almost identical as I recall. I'm guessing the 175 has very little difference too.

The good news on splitting the cases is that these KTM engines have to be about the easiest to split of any bike I've worked on, due to the 3-piece main bearings which come apart like butter. Special tools are nice I'd guess, but none needed unless you're pressing the crank in/out of the left case side--no need to work on shifting/starter/tranny. Good luck.