Shine, shine, shine!!

[Keithuu]

Ok guys and gals, let's hear all the hot tips for shining up that dull, but wonderful alloy. I've used Nevr-Dull wadding with mixed results and of course, brass wool, polishing compound, etc. Good ideas for polish and preservation would be appreciated.

Keithuu

[Rocket]

Keith
I use a buffing wheel on a bench grinder with polishing compound for everything except the fenders.  I use Mother's aluminum polish and a soft cloth.  I would rather put 20 motors together than polish parts, to me that is the worst job on a restoration!
Rocket

[OhioTed]

Listen to Rocket, Keith, 'cause that guy knows how to put together some perfect-looking bikes.  I have also done a lot of polishing, with quite good results.  Any of the quality over-the-counter polishing compounds will do a good job.  Simichrome is good, but I have a preference for Blue Magic, which is available at most auto parts stores.  As Rocket indicated, use a buffing wheel on your grinder or drill.  Also, there are little felt polishing drums made for use with a dremel tool that work great for hard to reach areas.  Use the compound sparingly, but keep enough on your work area for the surface to remain wet.  You may have to follow up the dremel pad with a larger wheel to "even out" the surface.  Patience and diligence is key.  You must work the surface extensively to get the desired results.  However, keep in mind what you wish to achieve, as it is possible to over-polish certain components, beyond the original appearance.  All depends what you want to end up with.  Personally, I've gotten completely carried away, to the point that I polish nuts and bolts to chrome-like appearance.  For the correct look of fasteners, check your local yellow pages for a specialty fastener supplier.  Chances are, you will find such a place.  They probably won't be thrilled about filling your onesy-twosy orders, but a few extra bucks to the counter guy should help you to get what you need.  Preservation is another story.  Depends on what you intend to do with the bike.  Clear coating is effective, but again, you must consider your appearance desires.  Laquer rattle-can Clear Coat is available at the bike shops, manufactured by PJ1.  However, it is glossy.  You can also get satin clear coat, but it will be enamel - not as durable.  Make sure to clean the surface with laquer thinner prior to application, then use great care when assembling.  Plastic inserts for your wrenches are available, to keep from marring the clear coat.  However, it again depends on what you intend to use the bike for.  Please keep in mind, Keith, that I aint no expert.  These tips are simply based on my own hobby-level efforts.  Good luck.  TED