Wheel Lacing

Started by Chakka, April 05, 2005, 09:10:51 PM

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dkwkid

One way to lace wheels is to place all the spokes in the hub and use ty-wraps at the cross point to hold each pair together.Next you start working the rim on the spokes by placing the nipples on a few turns to hold them in.Go around in a circle an soon you will have all the spokes in all the holes.This works very well if you only need to change a rim.

Gavin Housh

Donny, I see you have been laying in wait to get in on this. My only question is why it took three times before you pounced. Are you a Leo born cat[}:)]? Gavin.

Rain Man

Again, does anybody know what the "maximus allowabulus" is on the run out ?? I could of sworn it was 5/32" but that sounds like a whole bunch to me ??

Raymond
 Down East Pentons
Raymond
 Down East Pentons

Rain Man

Gavin, I got a new fire wall to contend with at with my "jobs network", it took me a few trys to verify the new technique, just another problem solved !!(hehe)

Raymond
 Down East Pentons
Raymond
 Down East Pentons

Merlin

.........runout I shoot for with new spokes and rim are zero radial and .020-.050 inch  lateral......new spokes,used rim as close to zero radial as possible(dings can make zero tough)and .040 to .080 inch lateral.......
Quote: Thomas Jefferson, We are all born ignorant, some work to remain that way.
 Quote:Peter Villacaro, \\"it is impossible to teach those that wish not to be taught\\".

Rain Man

Thanks Merlin, I have trouble dealing with "weld bumbs". I dunno if I got sold  bogus rims but I always seem to have a bumb somewhere to contend with..  I can live with .050" lateral runout. radially seems easier to accomplish...  wow ! the time spent truing rims

Raymond
 Down East Pentons
Raymond
 Down East Pentons

Chakka

I found pictures of the original KTM Factory jig for lacing in an old trail and track magazine that had been scanned on-line. Looks real simple to construct so that my next project.


Merlin

.............RainMan,(bumbs?)as you pointed out the "bumbs" are where the ends of new rims meet for welding,no such thing as perfect zero even when all parts are new,strive for the major runout and let the tires take up the slight deviation of the "bumbs"[8D]...............
Quote: Thomas Jefferson, We are all born ignorant, some work to remain that way.
 Quote:Peter Villacaro, \\"it is impossible to teach those that wish not to be taught\\".

john durrill

Chakka,
 Can you sent me a jpg( or any kind of file) of the jig? We will get it posted in the library.
Thanks,
John D.

Chakka


jackpinejim

Chakka, great pics! more more more!!


   Jim

Chakka

Jim, I wish I had more to offer. I am looking for more pictures myself, especially of the ISDT Team bikes. There just are not a lot of images out there of enduro subjects. Basically all the shots I have come from old Keeping Tracks and Hi-Point catalogs. It would be great if we could build the picture library up with members photos, vintage and new from races and enduros.

Chris

imported_n/a

POG, I just installed my front wheel after having received it back from a fellow who laced it all up for me (along with rear). What a beautiful thing! Anyway, the reason for my post is that having not taken a close look at the wheel when it came off the 74 Six Day (crusty old Radaelli), I advised my wheel guy that it wouldn't require an offset. Not pointing any fingers here, just hope this info. can be useful. I had him lace up a nice 1.85 Akront with no offset but whaddaya know, the thing is 1/2 - 5/8" offset to the left depending on whether I use a VDO drive or MX spacer. Either way I'm gonna have to add an offset. Questions - is it best to remove the tire in order to add the offset? Or, if spokes will loosen easily can it be done with tire on? I'd sure hate to risk scratching up this nice rim any more than it is already. If I'm missing anything here or there is no offset required, please let me know. Thanks as always and Happy Holidays to All!

Chris H.

Rocket

Quotequote:Originally posted by crheeterman

POG, I just installed my front wheel after having received it back from a fellow who laced it all up for me (along with rear). What a beautiful thing! Anyway, the reason for my post is that having not taken a close look at the wheel when it came off the 74 Six Day (crusty old Radaelli), I advised my wheel guy that it wouldn't require an offset. Not pointing any fingers here, just hope this info. can be useful. I had him lace up a nice 1.85 Akront with no offset but whaddaya know, the thing is 1/2 - 5/8" offset to the left depending on whether I use a VDO drive or MX spacer. Either way I'm gonna have to add an offset. Questions - is it best to remove the tire in order to add the offset? Or, if spokes will loosen easily can it be done with tire on? I'd sure hate to risk scratching up this nice rim any more than it is already. If I'm missing anything here or there is no offset required, please let me know. Thanks as always and Happy Holidays to All!

Chris H.

My advice is to remove the tire.  With as much off-set that is required, you will have spokes poking through the nipples 1/16" to 1/8".  You should grind the end of the nipples off that stick through or they may poke holes in your tubes.  To keep the wheel true and gain the off-set, loosen the spokes 2 flats at a time on the opposite side that you want to move.  Then switch to the other side and tighten each spoke 2 flats and keep doing that until you get the off-set you need.
I think the wheel has to be about 3/8" off-set to center up in the forks.
Rocket