Bike prep tips

[Paul Danik]

Most of the time the problem occurs with a flywheel that hasn't been off in many years, yes I do use a flywheel puller.  

Thanks
Paul

[john durrill]

Paul,
 Use the protective cap , the one used to remove the inner race on the main bearing. If you have one we made up a few years back it should clear everything ( including the puller ) and save the threads. Just make sure the wave/ lock washer is off. chuckle chuckle ! Dont ask how i found that out []
John D.

[Bob Bean]

Hey Paul,  
If you like WD 40 for your cables, you will Love BellRay 6-1 spray.
It has more lube in it than WD 40 (water dispersment cleaner with only a little oil)   :-)
Spectro SX 101 is also a better cable lube.
And those little $9.95 pressure cable lubers are great for pushing
the lube thru the cable and blowing out any old crud...
I always used to get guys asking me "how did you get your clutch to pull so easy ?"  Simple..Lubed the cable every week ! With good lube.

[OhioTed]

The late Dave Capretta, who for many years was an ace race mechanic once told me that for lubing cables there is no better product than Marvel Mystery Oil.  I use WD-40 and a pressure-injector tool to first clean-out the cable sheath, then apply the old drip method with MMO as a "chaser".  

Paul,  here's a couple of tips to make pulling the flywheel easier.  First, once you've spun the nut off, lean your bike over on its right side and shoot some PB Blaster around the crankshaft/flywheel junction.  After it's had some time to work in there, apply the puller, but just snug it up.  Then, tap the flywheel with a plastic mallet.  Keep cranking down on the puller and tapping the flywheel, a little bit at a time, and it'll pop loose a lot easier.  Just be sure to clean up any PB residue afterwards.

To protect your ignition system, be sure to blob some silicone seal around the point where the stator wires exit the case.  

And, speaking of ignition systems, does anyone vent their ignition cover any more?  Back in the old days we always drilled and tapped the top of the mag cover, then threaded in a barbed fitting, topped with a vent hose, which we then tucked up under the tank.  

Be sure to check the nuts and bolts of your bars and levers.  Don't laugh, but the bars on my old '77 Yamaha IT400 once came loose in the middle of a Hare Scramble - a fact I discovered upon landing from a jump.  Also, if you're like me you run your lever mounts just loose enough to rotate in the event of a crash, whether you're running hand protectors or not.  Plus, if you've not already mounted your grips up with grip-glue, do it.  A spinning clutch-side grip while riding in the mud is no fun at all.  

Lastly, be sure to check your seat-mount bolts.  Ask Jack.

[john durrill]

Ted ,
 You mean like this ?







[]

Remember to have a case protector installed . Not worth damaging the mag side engine case if a chain jumps  its track.
It would be a good idea when lubing the throttle and choke cables to have the carb end hanging in the clear. That way the crud and dirt wont find its way into the slide and then the engine. That's my thinking on cable lubing but i have been in error before chuckle chuckle!!
john d.

[OhioTed]

Hey, John - I knew a savvy old mud-ridin' pro like you would know to vent the ignition case.  I'll bet you also run the hose long enough to put a loop (water trap) at the top.

How about this one?  When was the last time you saw someone running two coils - one for each plug in the double-tapped head?  Yep, and those plugs were one-each "hot" and "cold", with lead wires run up to a high-low beam switch on the bars.  In slow, slogging conditions the hot plug could be employed, while fast, road sections called for the cold one.  Of course, that was back in the days of 20:1 mixing ratios.  You could always tell when enduro photos were taken in tight sections by the big plume of white smoke comin' out the end of the pipe.  

Here's another one - remember when really serious enduro riders had spare cables routed right alongside of the functioning ones?  Or, how about spare chains wired in place between the cases and the skid plate?  Or, a length of siphoning hose slid down inside the bars?  

Did you ever get crazy enough to experiment with grease and/or rubber o-rings in an effort to "seal" your drum brakes?  I did.  Did you run cables between the frame and shift/brake levers?  Bet your did.  Yep, hooked them up right after the time that brush packed in between the case and brake pedal and locked up the rear end just as you committed yourself to Dead-Man Downhill.

What ever happened to duct-taping the tops of your boots to your pant legs?  Went away just about the same time that riders stopped running duct tape between their visor and helmet.  Speaking of duct tape - remember when you would see riders with their gas caps taped shut?  

Ever been stuck out on the trail after dark?  If so, do you carry a lighter in your tool pack?  I do.  I pulled it out last week and checked to make sure it works - just in case.  How many guys still carry a tow rope?  Mine's been in the fanny pack for years.  It's a length of parachute cord.  Unbelievably strong, yet folds into a bundle no bigger than a deck of cards.  Forget untying any knots, though.  They cinch down way too tight.  Just cut off the ends and move on.  

Does your preride checklist include popping a couple of aspirin?  It'll make you feel better during the ride and after.  Just be sure to eat a little something "calm" along with 'em.  Speaking of comfort, pepper that old riding gear with plenty of baby powder before sliding into it.  New riding socks make old boots feel a lot better, too.

There's more, but I've gotta think about it.  Been a looooong time.