Part a Deek to save some Penton's?

[AndyL]

I am saving it guys.

Vance: Traded emails with Leo and gave him the serial number, they are a couple of years apart: yours is a 74 (1 of 30), mine is a 72 (1 of 140).

You can see some differences in small stuff like the battery tray location, speedo seperate from the light, etc.

Already started playing with getting the rust off the fenders.  Running an evapo-rust test against 0000 steel wool with Never Dull mixed in and elbow grease (which is hard to beat).

The motor now spins over nicely and i found no rust in the cylinder or crank area.  Probably take the carb apart tonight and see how it looks.

Andy
#14u
MOVMX, AMA, AHRMA

[joe novak]

Yeah!   Another vintage bike rescued by a new owner.   Joe

[desmond197]

Andy Do you or any one else know the numbers of DKW's imported into the USA each year and the breakdown between Enduros vrs MX bikes.

[AndyL]

Desmond,
I sent you an email with some info.

Andy
#14u
MOVMX, AMA, AHRMA

[desmond197]

Thanks Have not gotten it yet

[454MRW]

Remember that the site in-house email does not work. Mike

Michael R. Winter
I enjoy rebuilding and appreciating Pentons!
1974 250 HS Pentons-1980 KTM 175-400'S
75 Can Am 175 TNT & 77 250 Black Widow
1976-78 RM & 77-79 PE Suzuki's
74 CR250M 07 CR125R & CR150R

[desmond197]

my email is mrpbody44  at yahoo.com

Thanks

[linglewn]

My DKW in MX trim with leading-link front end and same tank color as Andy's is frame number 428000584. Only 362 ahead of Andy's on the assembly line. Any information on this serial number? Thanks.

Nelson Lingle
73 Jackpiner
74 Jackpiner
71 DKW 125

[AndyL]

Nelson,
All I have so far is that Vance's is a 74 which is 1 of 8 and mine is a 72 which is 1 of 140.

I dont know if that is 1 of 140 total enduro's and MX's or just Bator forked bikes, or just Enduro's, or even total exported to the US.

I will see what else I can find out.

Andy
#14u
MOVMX, AMA, AHRMA

[thrownchain]

I've got one that was an ex dealer race bike. It has Betors, and I have a couple with leading link front ends also.

[t20sl]

Here is some encourgement.  My DEEK only has 176 original unrestored miles.
MG]http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee30/t20sl/DCP_1996.jpg[/IMG]IMG]

[AndyL]

Just a quick update on the Boondocker:

With the help of Mike G, Al B, Terry E, Ted A, and especially Vance, (and a bit of smack from Phase Plant Phil) I have the Boondocker up and running.  It is sucking oil from the clutch side crank seal, so I didnt get to ride it for more than a few minutes.

Here is how it looked last weekend before I started in on the rims:


Some quality time with Evapo-Rust and serious elbow grease with 0000 steel wool and Never-Dull got the rust killed.  I also had to do some glass bead blasting on the front rim get some rust off.  The rear rim will have to wait until I get a tire.

All lights and switchs now work and it is a 12volt motoplat thanks to Vance's magic.

I need to tear into the clutch side crank seal, find a seat cover or upholstry place and as long as I am in the motor, I will freshen up the clutch plates.

Depending on how things move along, I may get a Missouri MV Inspection done on it in Dec, so I can get it plated.

Andy
#14u
MOVMX, AMA, AHRMA

[joe novak]

Andy,  Your effort really shows!   You have brought a great bike back to life.  Getting it running is a great accomplishment.  The crank seals are not difficult to replace even with the engine in the frame, and both should be replaced on the Sachs engine.  If the trans side seal is leaking, it is most likely that the ignition side is worse.  You have done a great job polishing the chrome.   p.s. the chain looks too tight.   Joe

[AndyL]

Thanks Joe.

Good catch on the chain; it was too tight when I took the pic's.  I had to give it some slack so it would roll easily, before pulling the bike back into my shop.

I replaced the ignition side crank seal when I installed the 12V motoplat that I got from Vance.

I have the a gasket set on the way, but dont I have to split the cases to replace the crank seal on the clutch side of a Sachs motor?
Thanks,

Andy
#14u
MOVMX, AMA, AHRMA

[joe novak]

Andy,  Serious damage may occur to the countershaft, the bearing, and other components if the chain is too tight.  I have seen engine cases completely broken off from the countershaft to the rear of the engine cases.  My guess is at least 1 1/2" of chain up and down.  On the clutch side of the crankshaft, there is the main bearing, main crank seal, and outer (small) crankshaft bearing.  So the main seal is placed on the crankshaft between two bearings.  I believe I have replaced that crankshaft seal by splitting the cases, removing the crankshaft with the inner bearing race attached and the main bearing in a cage, and this will expose the seal.  The crankshaft does NOT have to be removed from the ignition side of the cases.   If you can figure out a way to remove the outer bearing, the seal might be able to be installed that way.  It may be tough with the crankshaft end in the way.   I hope other POG members add their suggestions.  They likely know something I don't.  I will emain Doug Wilford regarding the seal.  He is very good with Sachs engines....   Joe