Frame painting and electrical connections (pics)

Started by AndyL, March 23, 2019, 09:36:57 AM

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AndyL

I have a question for the POG collective mind:
I picked up a late 73 Hare Scrambler rolling chassis from Mike W. (thanks again Mike), motor is a 74'ish 250.  I have stripped and re-painted (self etching primer, silver, 2 part clear coat).

I am not going for a restoration, I set all my bikes up to look close to period correct, but they must be stone reliable and its ok to take advantage of any technological advancements (new ignition, Race Tech springs, etc).  My riding abilities preclude me from taking advantage of 100% of the bike anyway (translation: I am slow and I fall down alot, but I love doing it.)

My question is do i need to grind the motor mount pads, coil mount pads back to bare metal in a small spot for good ground?

Or run a separate ground wire from the coil mount area to the stator plate?

Or both?

Pictures of the progress so far:



Edit: While cleaning up my Photobucket account, I thought I would see if I can get the images to work with the posting again.

And I took your advise and cleaned the physical connections between the frame, motor and electrical components, checked for continuity and ran a separate ground wire.

Thanks,


Andy
#14u
MOVMX, AMA, AHRMA
Andy
#14u
MOVMX, AMA, AHRMA

Pistonhead

Hello and sounds like a very nice project I ran into an ignition problem on a Husqvarna 390 auto when I had the frame powder coated. I ended up doing both to be on the safe side and all was well. I think you would be safe with cleaning contact areas but for competition I would add a ground strap too.
Ron Sherfy,Ohio                        1974 Penton Berkshire 100   1994 ATK 406                        1976 Honda mr175             1974 Honda mt250

Larry Perkins

The coil mount is all that needs to be bare in my Penton experience.

Larry P

G Ellis

I would take off all paint, motor to frame that touch each. Also run a heavy wire from frame to top of the cylinder. This helps with ground, if you do this will not have any trouble.

AndyL

Thanks Ron, Larry and Gary for the help.
I plan to do just as Gary outlined.
One last pic for now...


Andy
#14u
MOVMX, AMA, AHRMA
Andy
#14u
MOVMX, AMA, AHRMA

Pistonhead

Looking good and what brand are the rear shocks?

Ron Sherfy,Ohio                        1974 Penton Berkshire 100   1994 ATK 406                        1976 Honda mr175             1974 Honda mt250
Ron Sherfy,Ohio                        1974 Penton Berkshire 100   1994 ATK 406                        1976 Honda mr175             1974 Honda mt250

Larry Perkins


AndyL

Larry is correct, Curnutt shocks.
They work pretty well, easy to maintain, rebuild and tune.  
The hard part is finding the right length and spring weight.

Andy
#14u
MOVMX, AMA, AHRMA
Andy
#14u
MOVMX, AMA, AHRMA

Carl Hill

I had the coil mount crack on mine, I suppose from engine vibration. Some Penton machines came with a rubber insulator between the coil and frame so I made one after I got the frame welded.

Pat Oshaughnessy

I had the coil mount break clear off on my 74 250cc ! This was when it was about 2 yrs. old. I jammed a stick of wood under the coil to hold it against the mount! It got me home![^]

Paul Danik

Our 1973 ISDT machines had dual coils, possibly the folks at KTM and Penton R & D knew they had some issues. I had always just figured they were concerned about coil failure, having never had a mount crack or come off I never gave that a thought.

We had a quick release set up on the tank strap that would allow for quick access to the coils to switch the wires without removing the seat.

I believe it was Dick Burleson who while working at the Husky building just a block or so from Penton R & D who told me of tearing a Husky race bike pretty much apart trying to figure out why there was improper spark, in the end it was a bad ground. If I remember right it was the engine contact to the frame where his issue was.

Paul





AndyL

Continuing on with the build of a 1974 250 hare scrambler / racer, not a restoration.  Made some progress, and incorporating alot of the ideas I read here. Going for as much reliability as I can get.






Andy
#14u
MOVMX, AMA, AHRMA
Andy
#14u
MOVMX, AMA, AHRMA

454MRW

Looking really great Andy! Good to see my old bike coming back to life again, congratulations. Mike

Michael R. Winter
I enjoy rebuilding and appreciating Pentons!
1974 250 HS Penton
1976 MC5 400
1978 KTM 78 GS6 250
L78-79 MX6 175-250 KTM's
1976-78 125-400 RM's
2007 CR125R Honda
1977 MC250 Maico
2017 KTM Freeride 250R
Michael R. Winter
I enjoy rebuilding and appreciating Pentons!
1976 Penton MC5 400
1977 KTM MC5 125
1978 KTM 78 GS6 250
L78-79 MX6 175-250 KTM\\\'s
1976-78 125-400 RM\\\'s
2007 CR125R Honda
1977 MC250 Maico
2017 KTM Freeride 250R

AndyL

Thanks Mike.  I appreciate the opportunity you gave me by selling me the project.

I am making some slow progress, because I have had to re-do several things over; just didnt like the results the first time around.

I did buy aftermarket red side covers, but after some deliberation this weekend, I dug out the hammer/dollies and worked the aluminum airbox cover that you included with the bike, back into shape. Fits perfect now.

I also pulled out the fiberglass repair materials, and started in with plans to re-glass the right side cover.  I will make repairs on the backside using a combination of cloth, mat, and some chopped fibers, so I can re-use that original cover. The wear and tear on it looks great.

Not sure I will use it, but I liked the down low torque of my 74.5 Jackpiner so much that for this 250, I found a flywheel weight for the HPI ignition.  Testing will tell which route I go.



Thanks again.



Andy
#14u
MOVMX, AMA, AHRMA
Andy
#14u
MOVMX, AMA, AHRMA

Rain Man

Nice Ignition, where did you find the flywheel weights?

Raymond
 Down East Pentons
Raymond
 Down East Pentons