leaking fuel

[Richard Carlson]

I turn on the petcocks bleed the carb and the fuel just runs out of the overflow and doesn't quit. Do I have a stuck float,bad float,or wrong float adjustment or something completely different? Not leaking out of the tickler outlet or the bowl gasket.

[wfopete]

Probably a stuck/dirty/worn or damaged needle/seat assembly.  Might just be stuck which in that case tap the carb float bowl lightly with a wooden dowel (or equivalent) and see if that doesn't help.

If still leaking it's time to pull the carb and inspect.

Pete Petrick
175 Jackpiner
Slow but Good

[Daniel P. McEntee]

The tickler can get stuck down also and pin the float in a low position. You just need to pull the carb and go through and check all the parts.
  Type at you later,
   Dan McEntee

[Richard Carlson]

Nothing was stuck so I've started changing my float level so far I've gone from a steady stream to a bubbly stream of gas. I'll keep working the float down.

[Daniel P. McEntee]

The old fashioned way of setting the float is to take the float bowl off, turn the carb upside down, and have the flange level. The bottom of the float should be level also when it makes contact with the float needle valve. I like to put a clean length of fuel line connected to the inlet, and blow through it while checking this fit. That tells you exactly when the float closes and you can adjust it pretty fine that way from that point.
   Type at you later,
  Dan McEntee

[Paul Danik]

Hi Dan,

    I might be reading your instructions wrong, or maybe my recollection on setting the float level is fuzzy but I have a question. When holding the carb upside down and level, shouldn't the flow of air being blown thru the fuel line stop when the float is level as well ? Possibly that is what your instructions indicate, just wanted to make sure Richard has it right.

   Richard, my guess is that you either did have a "stuck float" from it sitting, or there was something amiss like dirt causing an issue. Also check that the float doesn't have any fuel inside it which would compromise its ability to do its  job.

Hope this helps.
Paul

[Daniel P. McEntee]

Hi Paul;
   Yes, that is correct. Most often, just eyeballing the contact point will get you to the correct setting, but sometimes you need to fudge on that one way or the other and have the shut off point a little lower or a little higher. Blowing air through the fuel line lets you see that exact point.
  I keep thinking about the tickler also. They can be cantankerous at times and stick down when you don't want them to, or sometimes not even touch the float! I have a '77 Hercules 250 that I had trouble starting when I first acquired it, and noticed that the float bowl never over flowed no matter how long I pushed the tickler down. I examined the inside of the carb and saw that the rod of the tickler wasn't long enough to touch the float. I ordered new parts from Bing International and after recovering from the shock of the price of the parts, installed them, and they were exactly the same! I finally fabricated something onto the end of the rod to allow it to make contact with the float, but the result was that the tickler would now stick in the down position and until I figure out why I have to be conscious about making sure I pull the tickler back up if it sticks. Now the carb will flood like it is supposed to and combined with the choke, starts very easily cold. The tickler is a pretty important part of the Bing carb and I like that function, and wish it could be retrofitted to a Mikuni! But it can cause some aggravating issues. Sorry for any confusion.
  Type at you later,
   Dan McEntee

[slvrbrdfxr]

Richard,
Could be that the float tang needs some attention. When you have the float out, be sure to take some Emory cloth and sand the small indentation completely out of the tang on the float where it touches the fuel inlet needle. I've seen where this small indentation, which develops on the float tang over time, can cause problems and make the float stick ever so slightly. It's best to eliminate that possibility. Once you've sanded the float tang perfectly smooth, adjust the float so it sits level with carb body without compressing the ball in the top of the fuel inlet needle. Hope this helps.
Dave McC

[Richard Carlson]

Update;I cleaned the carb. Bought a new float from Bing (the cheap one $40 as I live in snowmobile country so alcohol free fuel is sold everywhere) adjusted the float and the bike is a one kicker with no leakage! thanks for all the info Rich