New to motorcycles

[firstturn]

Jim,
  Maybe I am missing something here?  Do you have the cylinder off yet?  If not put some type of penetrating oil around it and let it set for several days and keep the treatment up everyday.

Ron Carbaugh

[Big Mac]

Jim- There's no reason to take the ignition apart any further or remove the red magneto stator (with wires coming out of it) unless you have no spark and are needing to replace it, or are needing to reset the timing. If you can't kick it over yet because the piston is still hanging up or dragging in the cylinder, then you can't realistically check to see if it's got spark (unless, of course, you want to take it off and ship it out to be tested professionally---not necessary at this point, I'd say).

Even if you decide to split the cases to check on the tranny, replace bearings or overhaul the crank, the stator assembly can stay in place and will come off with the left side case when you disassemble. In the side of the crankshaft where the aluminum magneto "wheel" was installed, there's a small keyway with a key that held the magneto from spinning on the shaft--be sure to poke the key out and save it for re-installation of the magneto...otherwise it will damage the seal that's behind it when you pull the cases apart.   Mac

[Doug Wilford]

You should replace all seals and gaskets before reassembly of your engine.  The mag side seal is much easier changed if the stator is removed.

[Jimisback]

Mac, I do want to look at the tranny and the bearings. Everything seems to be really stiff. Just waiting on the manual now. I thought I would have it today, but with Christmas here I am sure it will be late. What I have now is the main body with the head and covers off. Also the magnito aluminium cover is off and I see the key. The engine is off the bike and on the floor. The chain sproket and nut are still on. As well as the red portion of the ignition. I can't get the screws loose that hold the main body together.

[Jimisback]

Doug, I will need all the seals and gaskets. And what do the rings look like? I don't see any on the piston. Shouldn't there be at least two? I know that sounds stupid, but I am new to this and It has been opened before to some extent.[B)]

[firstturn]

Jim,
  I am going to stay out of this since you are getting better help than I can give you, but I will say this based on your last post about rings and "being new at this".  Please don't loose any parts on this exploration... and you would have been better off not taking the engine out till after taking the nut off holding the countershaft sprocket.  Good luck.

Ron Carbaugh

[Jimisback]

Thanks Ron, I got this bike after it had been disassembled. So I don't know how it should be to start with. The parts I am keeping in bags that are marked. But all your help is very welcome. Many eyes are better than two. Thanks again for your input. I hope you have more.
Jimmy

[firstturn]

Jim,
  I just realized my statement(s) may have came across harsh...this wasn't meant to be that way so please accept my apology[B)].  Sometimes after a long day I should take a deep breath and have a little more humour.  Thanks for taking it the right way and I will be here to help if I can[8D].

Ron Carbaugh

[Jimisback]

Thanks Ron, I did not take it harshly at all. I get dumb questions like mine all day in my field too. I just hate asking them. So I am sorry for that.

[Jimisback]

I just got the manual in the mail. Now off to read it.

[taxman]

jimmy, please keep us posted. I hope to find a penton soon and will be going thru the same as you. its been 30 years since i sold my last penton. get this $350.00 and i thought i got the better of the deal. who has the last laugh, would love to find that old 1972 Berkshire. anyways i'm learning alot from your qustions. please keep it up and merry CHRISTmas.

Jim

[Jimisback]

Ok I just sprayed some brake cleaner into it. I can not beleive it. But it freed it up. It is turning like a top now.

[Jimisback]

I think this thing has been just sitting. The gunk is un-real.

[Tony Price]

Jimmy,

It's great that you have the manual.  It is the single most important tool you have when rebuilding a Sachs 2 stroke.

I'm not sure if it has been mentioned earlier, but when you are ready to seperate the cases make sure you are in a clean area with some surface space.  This is because there will be shims that you need to keep track of.  Generally, they tend to stick to either the case or the internal part that they are compensating for.  

Take extra care to note the location and quantity of the shims.  Write this down, and/or make drawings.  Be extra careful to not mix up the shims so you can keep the right sizes together for re-assembly.

Being overly methodical with the shims will save you untold nightmarish hours trying to work out shifting trouble, or even worse, replacing bearing races and seals that were already replaced.

There is also a paragraph in the manual about circ-clips.  I believe that there are three of them internally.  Two of them are OK to remove, but the third lifts the lid to Pandora's Box and releases many horrors that the world is better off without.  My failing memeory, and lack of a split motor in front of me, precludes me remembering which one of the circ-clips should be left in place.  I think it is the one on the shift selector.

The book is very clear on which one to not remove, and perhaps Doug W or John D. can chime in and offer more info.  

Keep the questions coming, they help others as well.  Between my self and my asylum partner, we have at least 3, and maybe as many as 5 (?) more Sachs to rebuild.  Of course we may both be working on them in the retirement village by the time we get to all of them, but it beats finger painting and bead necklaces.





Tony