Wanted to buy 175 Jackpiner

Started by kevin1971, January 28, 2006, 07:37:15 AM

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kevin1971

What should I look for when buying a Jackpiner?  What are the common problems to a Jackpiner that can be very expensive to repair?  Looking to ride it in a dual sport occasionally.  Don't think I need a 250 so that is why the Jackpiner. Suggestions?  Kevin

gthong

Hi KEVIN.. I/m brand new here and don't really have much to ofer you.. as I have not had a real penton in 27 years... but I'm looking for one also.

Do you intend to actually RIDE the bike, or have it around to look at?

where do you live, I'm in Fairhaven, mich  30 miles north of detroit?

Have you ever hunted, tracked, found, investigated an old bike (or any toy?).. it can be an adventure.

I guess my only suggestion would be.. unless your really hung up on a Jackpiner...  just buy the most complete, nicest bike , you can find of any size.  By the looks of the prices I'm seeing.. the difference between a cream puff and a basket case is only 1200.00-1700.00.. and you could eat that difference up in a heartbeat buying and hunting parts..

(ex.  "nice" to "beautiful" Honda 1982 CBX  4000.00-5500.00.. but new exhaust can cost you (900.00 used to 3000.00 georgeous). So you look for one with great exhaust!!

my two cent offered from chasing down lots of other type bikes..

Kip Kern

A Jackpiner, or any other Penton, is an excellent bike to ride or have in your collection.  There are a few things to know when hunting one.  Most cosmetic parts are available as several of us are having them reproduced.  The big thing to consider is the engine and exhaust.  Any stock Penton pipe is very hard to find so if you find a bike with a good exhaust, this is a good start!  The Jackpiner engine is the big thing though.  Pistons are available thanks to Al but crankcases are not nor are clutch plates.  I am currently trying to find a jobber that will either have or repop the organic plates as the 175 has it's own style.  Some steel plates are available from Al but I think his supply is limited,  so I am looking for both steel and organic.  If you find a KTM engined Penton, whatever it is, the first thing you want to do is remove the ignition cover and see if there is any corrosion in this area.  If not, good but don't be in too big of a hurry as you need to still check the crank area.  If the engine turns over freely this is a good sign there is no major corrosion in the crank area stopping rotation but still proceed with caution as I have several KTM cases that look new on the outside and are rotted on the inside.  Sometimes, the piston seems stuck in the bore but in reality, the crank area is rotted so bad that the crank is actually stuck.  Corrosion is mainly located in three areas.  The crank bottom, ignition area and the transmission bottom, it can also be found in the clutch bottom as most bikes have sat with water in the oil and it has went to the bottom of the cases to start the corrosion process.  A few simple ways to look for corrosion in the KTM engines.  Remove the small allen head screw under the crank area between the fins (usually covered in dirt) and stick a dental pik in the opening to see if any white powder comes out, if not, good, if so, the price gets lower.  Drain the engine oil and see if there is any moisture present, if so, there is corrosion of some sort.  Another way is to pop the clutch cover and look at the lowest point of the cover/cases for rotting.  If the crank rotates on a engine and you find no white powder in the lower crank area when removing the small allen, it most likely is good, but don't forget to check the oil in the tranny for moisture.  I normally carry a dental pik and probe around the underside of the engine, i.e., transmission area, and lowest point of the clutch area, etc.  If it feels soft or there is a sign of a pinhole or very old crusty oil leak anywhere, it most likely is rotted.  Remember, buyer beware, you are excited to get the bike so don't overlook the important stuff.  If a seller doesn't want you snooping too close at the engine or wants to sell it quick (the old, I have someone else looking at the bike so you might want to buy it now), walk away and look for something else as you may get more than you wished for. On an average, you will drop 1-1.5K in a bike, about 200+ hours hunting and restoring it and another 2K in parts finishing it.  The key is not to get into a big hurry!  Have fun;)

gthong

wow.. great advice.. thanks   I'm checking out a 250 tomorrow

Rocket

I have a 76 Jackpiner that I would sell.  It is the last of the one's before they all became orange.  Motor is on stock bore, pipe had some rust, but I repaired what was bad.  I rode the bike at the Oklahom 6-day Reunion Ride and it ran great, good enough for a gold medal.  I am located in the western part of Illinois.  Bike will not be cheap.
Send me an email if you are interested.
Rocket

Rain Man

Funny Kip and Rocket you mentioning how much these things cost.  I've been restoring JP #2 and I just got my CC bill for the month of January !! I spent well over a grand !!  (effortlessly)
  Kevin, if you want to find more bikes to look at in your neck of the forest, might I suggest running an add in a popular motor cycle newspaper or want ads in your area.  This will occasionally yield some unbelievable deals !!   Some of the stuuf you find  may be just great spare parts bike.  Always worth a try.

Raymond
 Down East Pentons
Raymond
 Down East Pentons

gthong


Rain Man

Jack Piner  number two !!  I owned these 2 bikes back in 1974 and they sat in a hew barn in Denmark... Me for 22 years till I rescued them.  They both look brand new.. again [^]

Raymond
 Down East Pentons
Raymond
 Down East Pentons

gthong

you owned them in USA.. then they went to denmark? then you brought them back to the US?

rob w


rob w


Rain Man

sheep=hew   Yes it had the usual "stuff" all over them
 
BBAAA

 I had to replace all 4 wheels and 1 exhaust pipe.

Kevin, another thing ja might looky see. Is the unobtainable kick starter spline shaft.  If thats in rough shape.. you  may have to wait till someone repops them. The last 1 Al had cost a hundred bucks !!

Raymond
 Down East Pentons
Raymond
 Down East Pentons

gthong

yea.. I noticed ME after I clicked "send reply"

Is that kick start shaft an issue on all sizes??

You what I never hear you guys talk about with the steel tank bikes is   all the neutrals!!!   Pentons were legedary back in the very early days for more neutrals than gears??  I'm talking sachs motor days

kevin1971

Thanks guys for all the help.  I did not know the metal case problem was that serious.  Does this apply to all KTM motors in Pentons?  Is it because they were magnesium?  Kip:  Will the case problem continue if bike is ridden only a couple of times a year, or is it just because they have sat for many years without being started at all? Kevin

Chakka

Kevin,
The corrosion issue applies to all KTM motors. Moisture corrodes the magnesium and turns it into a powdery mess. The old KTM owners manual says to remove the ignition cover after every ride to allow the metal to dry. Using the bike only a few times a year could make it worse if the bike isn't properly maintained. I wouldn't let it be a detractor from buying the bike. Just check it carefully.
Chakka