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I found this quite interesting.....
I am in the process of getting my HS onto vintage registration. Here in Oz this means you can ride the bike for up to 60 days at a reduced rate and also participate in Vintage MC rides. I finally fixed the gearbox problem (not telling you guys what I did wrong!!!)and then in preparation for the paperwork wrote down the frame number and engine number. Then an idea popped into dilapidated grey matter that I should check these against the numbers for the CMF frames and the engine number list. So there I was searching down the list and there was my frame number as the first frame for a 250 in January 1974 54 401 70513. Checking the engine number I found it was the first engine from the second last batch from 1973. 3 54 2499. I thought that was pretty cool.
I then proceeded to check my cousin's 175 that was of the same vintage. Again the frame was on the list as the first 175 frame from the last batch in 1973. 52 312 70349.Unfortunately the engine number was inside the third batch of 175 engines produced in 1974. 4 52 05760. Not sure about the first zero there?? These bikes were possibly in the last batch of KTMs to come to Australia in 1974 until Bert Flood started importing them in late 1976/early 1977.

Thanks again for your inputs Rick. If I had a spare layshaft and hub that would be great but it might also be the starting point for getting another engine together if I could locate all the other parts that go with the layshaft and hub  lol. Now to get it to fit into my spare Hare Scrambler frame.

Ok I have finally got the clutch together and positioned. It was not easy to fit it onto the clutch hub. Not sure if the tool would have helped. Assembled clutch on hub then slid it off and placed hub on shaft. Fitted clutch back on hub but had difficulty getting the hub past the last clutch plate. slight coercion prevailed. Played with the shifting adjustment. Shifting is a little on the stiff side but I hope that will free up with some use. If not back to readjusting.

Another question tho. I have 3 Sachs head gaskets that have the metal ring to sit around the cylinder sleeve like what happens with the 175-250-400 motor but my cylinder does not have the protrusion to locate the gasket. As you can see the gasket is not concentric to the bore. Am I supposed to use a different gasket or none at all like my Steel Tanker. Thanks in advance and oh yes Happy New Year.

Haven't looked. Thoughts are to Tig it or live with it as it is. Merry Xmas to all

Greetings all. Onto the clutch with the Sachs 125 rebuild. The clutch hub #0658 001 000 I have has a small crack in it above the keyway at the bevel end of the hub. Is this common and if so is there a fix or do I purchase another one. The crack is about twice as long as the keyway width but the metal is still intact and didn't move with a light tap. Appreciate your thoughts Cheers Bill

Thanks for the extra help/suggestions. Got a mate to look at it. He buzzed the selector piece with his TIG and that was sufficient heat to break the loctite. All good. On with the rebuild

Paul thanks for your assistance. I tried again with a little heat just in case there was some loctite but still could not budge the key. Will wait to see if Rick joins in. If not may just use the key as is and enjoy.
Cheers
Bill

Thanks for replying Paul. Unfortunately there is no email address for Rick Bennett on the inside of Still Keeping Track. Not a problem if somebody else reads this they may have it. I will also email Al B and see if he can send it to me. Meanwhile I will have another go at unscrewing tonight... but gently. Stay safe
Bill

Hi Gentlemen. I am trying to replace the selector key on a Sachs 6 speed but it does not want to unscrew. I am being gentle with it so obviously I need to use more force but any ideas on how much is too much and if there are any handy hints that might get the key undone would be greatly appreciated. Cheers from Oz

Has anybody ever tried to mate a Sachs engine to a 1973 250 hi breather frame. I have both sitting around and was wondering if it was possible to do. Long long shot I know but if you don't ask ........ Happy Easter Poggers from Oz

Thanks Mike. this was for a friend of mine who has a couple of 504s and was getting a new rod in the crank. It has been done but your information gives him piece of mind in the process. It will be handy for the future for him and myself as i have one as well. Keep adding your interesting snippets to social media. 

Is there anybody out there with experience of rebuilding the crank for a 504 4 stroke. There is an oil slinger attached to the crank and I don't know what to do with this when separating the lobes.

Cheers
Bill

I am no expert in this dept but my mates have discussed this topic. We have been talking about from the view of piston speed and the time it takes to arrive at TDC. Logic is it arrives faster at higher rpm therefore needing more advance to fire at the optimum time. The mantra is advanced for top end power retard for low end power. From the above talk there are more variables in head/squish design and I guess high octane fuels also enter the equation. Seeing as I cannot ride and do not wish to ride my 6 Days flat out all the time I am happy with the factory specs. Love all of my motors but they are all way better than my riding ability.

Thanks Mike for that sage info. I also got a little from the Facebook group. Getting a bit too old for MX Cheers
Bill

Thanks for the reply Doug. I also want to bore out the inside of the inlet tract to match the bore of the carby. I need to know how much I can bore it out before I have to completely alter the inlet tract. I f i have to do that how do I do it?  Cheers Bill