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This looks like the arm on my '80 R.V. 125.[ Little Bit]  The '80 -'81 125's had the aluminum chain /case protector.  The one on my '81 495 [Big Dog] also looks the same, but has the much beefier steel case protector.           Joe Wright

Teddy I meant to say hope your wounds HEAL soon.     Back to the degree wheel , I also use this set up with a timing light and the engine running to test the advance/retard on the auto advance Motoplats. These came on the '79through-? 125"s.  if they fail to retard at r.p.m. you just bought a piston.  These are internal rotor igns. and are rare. To find out if an internal rotor Moto P. is auto advance, you have to send Dane the part # and he can tell you. These are the hot set-up on one two fives  but hard to come by.  Joe Wright

Teddy,  I use a G.E.M. degree wheel that I ordered from a karting parts place called American Power Sports. You can order on-line @ apskarting.com.  The part # is G4498. It lists for $18 and change. It is aluminum and very durable. To attatch the wheel to my engines, I install my Motoplat puller minus the long jack bolt. In place of the jack bolt i use a short bolt with washer fitted through the hole in the degree wheel and onto the puller.  The puller helps extend the wheel far enough away from the flywheel that you can still get to the timing lineup holes in the flywheel.  For a pointer I use a piece of 1/16th welding wire held stationary with a C-clamp. You can still use your dial indicator to find T.D.C. and adjust your wheel/pointer to zero, are use the positive stop method as instructed with your degree wheel instructions. The posi-stop method is most accurate.           Hope your wounds quickly,    Joe Wright

Back to the fork issue.  If you choose to opt for a set of 35's other than cerriani, an easy route to go is to use a lower cerriani tripple clamp [non tapered] on the top along with a stock lower. The lowers are easily drilled for handlbar clamps and you do not have the problem of trying to adapt other steering head bearings and races. I learned this trick from Barry Higgins while visiting his shop and doing some buying,selling swaping etc. I noticed this setup on a K.R.short tracker that my friend purchased from Barry. He said that he believed the shot trackers came this way. Once again having run both size forks, I hiiiiiiighly recomend trying a set of 35,s. You'll throw roost at your 32's once you do.  Also if you choose to run the cerrani forks off a larger or later yr. Penton your front wheel will bolt right on. See ya'll at the races....       Joe Wright

Tom    I have a 125 that came with the 32's.  raced it at mid ohio a couple of times in the sportsman class.[reed valves]  Faired pretty well against a rash of elsinores.   Finally decided to try a set of 35's .   Should have done it long ago. I did not realize how the front end had been flexing.   Also , I prepped a couple of mint 400s for you to ride at Tyler pro am.  they were delivered by Ron Munson, as i had to work. I,m not sure if you didnt show or had other ride. Next pro am contact Firstturn  or me if you need a ride in Tex.  Long travel  81 ktm 495 w/fox air and 40 mm zokes.  Short travel  2 4oo pentons. These are the same bikes Bruce McDougle rode at tyler.

THOMAS,  I TO HAVE ENCOUNTERED THIS PROBLEM.  THE CULPRIT WAS THE AXLE. IT HAD EITHER BEEN SANDED MANY TIMES OR HAD SPUN ON THE RACE.  THE DIA WAS SLIGHTLY UNDERSIZE AND DID NOT FIT SNUGLY TO THE INNER RACE.   HOPE THIS HELPS.    JOE WRIGHT

I AM CURRENTLY RUNNING A 5.30 CHENG CHEN ON MY '76 MC5. IT WORKS VERY WELL, AND HAS NO CLEARANCE PROBLEMS.
                              JOE WRIGHT  


 

THE STOCK BEARING IS CONSIDERED "SELF ALLIGNING".  IT ALLOWS FOR THE CRANK AND THE CASE AT THE MACHINED BEARING LOCATION TO BE SLIGHTLY OUT OF PERPINDICULAR ALIGNMENT.  WITH MODERN C.N.C. MACHINING AND EQUIPMENT, THIS IS USUALLY NOT AN ISSUE, BUT BACK IN THE DAY IT WAS AN ISSUE.  THE STOCK BEARINGS WILL NOT ONLY RUN COOLER AND MUCH MORE RELIABLY, BUT THIS IS ONE OF THE KTM AND SACHS HORSEPOWER SECRETES.   JOE WRIGHT

 

been in storage for 9 years  all original pipe cables  tires etc.  i freshend main seals and replaced piston and rings. added black float in carb and red wire coil. engine is fresh and strong.  some light surface rust on frame.  still has disclaimer sticker an six day shield.   race it in classic class or would make beautiful restoration.  $950. plus forward air (approx $175 lower 48  e-mail for photos and more info. [email protected]   (joe wright)