Messages

Larry is right . They make great replacement tubes but , unless they have changed the tempering on them they can bend on the big hard hitting jumps.
john d.

Tim ,
I had a 79 400 GS . if you could find that head and cylinder you will be amazed what a great enduro/trail bike the 400 could be. I was a small bore rider most of my riding life , 100 ,125 ,175 .That was the last production of the first gen 400's. It was easy to start pulled like a huge electric motor , very stable and controllable it tight woods and mort speed than most folks can handle when the trails  opened up . Paul  or Ron would be folks to ask if it is possible to do the change out. I have a good picture of it after we restored it  but I no longer have a way to upload the pic online. It was fast enough we fitted a disk brake on the front because we ran a lot of water and mud where we live .
Just a thought chuckle chuckle !!
John D

Dan,
give speedy a call. he had a lot of bits and a great deal of knowledge
about traps. he had what we needed several times.
john d.

Dale Fisher,
 This is what we did to mount a Lectron to a KTM 175 cylinder.
It gives you an idea how to do it one way.
We used a standard Mikuni intake manifold adapter to mount to the modified intake manifold.

We moved the carb as close to the cylinder as we could and still have good flow and clearance. We turned the intake bell down on the Lectron also to help with the air boot fit. The enrichner air passage will limit you some on how small you can make it but it makes things fit a lot better if you can do it.
Good-thing is, if you use a standard Mikuni intake adapter, it bolts right up and is easy to find.
The one that fits the Amal intake is and expensive one.
john d.

Bengt,
Do you have a stock Maico piston to compare the RM370 to?
You could slip a wrist pin half way in the stock piston , slide an RM 370 on the other end and see how things line up. The wrist pin hole could be cut in a bit lower on the Maico's piston.
It must work because you had it running better before the skirt change.
john d.

desmond,
We have used these folks for years. They carry 7 MM Ignition coil wire.
Try this link . Scroll down about half way.
http://www.flandersco.com/Images/PDF/ElectricalCatalog.pdf
Best source we have found for it.
john d.

Dale,
Our first JP had an Amal on it out of the box. It worked well for the customer.
 Here is Johns recommendations for stock jetting .












The above should help some .


Al B. may have parts in stock .
 If not you can give Speed and Sport a call,
http://www.speedandsport.com/
or Hughs Bultaco
http://www.bultaco.com/
 and see if they have what you need.

best of luck,
john d.

Donny,
 Give Charlie Robinson a call,
I think he built one up last year and may know of where to find bits for it.
Charlie Robinson
Sooner Hodaka
4 Lori Lane
Shawnee, OK 74804
ph. 405-964-2640
john d.

dirtbike,
 We restored a 79 400 GS in 1991. We added a little better front brake and used it for 2 years as my trail bike.
I think you have a great 400 for the woods. Ours was easy to start ,handled well, had controllable power everywhere and all the travel I could use in the dirt.




 Hope you like yours as much as we liked ours.
john d.

Mickey,
B engine  , 100 cc ( 48mm standard bore) , 27 mm type 53 Bing ?
Jetting you had was 135 main , needle # 4 , needle jet 276 , pilot jet
#40 ? Cable choke on or disabled and sealed up? Pipe type? Milled head?
 Larry brought up some very good things to look at . If it were me would measure the exhaust port width and look at the corner radius.
     The 100 is a very good design and not prone to what you had happen. I have a good friend that rode a Factory Herc 6/D 100 in 2 Day Trials here in the US. With the cylinder the Factory folks modified for him Rick said he would get right at 7 miles before the piston failed.
He went back to a slightly less wild cylinder and had great luck with it.
 Best of luck with it Mickey,
john d.

 

Jeff,
 Run a search on POG . There have been many posts that go over what you are running into.
Kip has done a lot with posting measurements and info on how to do the clutch right on a KTM engine.
see below for one of his.

Start of copy.

kip kern
Advanced Member

USA
1641 Posts
   
Posted - 12/22/2006 :  07:12:19 AM  Show Profile  Email Poster  Reply with Quote
Mike The later single piece rod wit the bearings replaced the early two piece rods with 6mm ball. If you wish, you can swap units as long as you swap it as a package. The old style rods are 108mm long each and a 6mm ball goes between them for a total of 222mm. Once that is correct, you change the pressure plate thickness to allow for the actuator throw of 40-45mm. You can use different stacks of plates as KTM varied and noted in the shop manuals. Once you built the clutch pack up, you then had to get the throw corrected to match it so that is where the different thickness pressure plate came into play. I have about 5 different thicknesses for building clutches. The funny thing is, the shop manual and the part have the same P/N but doesn't specify thickness! Ted, I see what you are indicating but I was averaging/guessing that there weren't that many KTM 125's out there being used. The little engine that couldn't can't get out of it's own way unless you do some major changes to it so most don't race it. There are a few later 175's but the majority is 250 and 400's that I see. In about 100 engine rebuilds, I have seen 2 125's and possible 3 later 175's.
 end of copy.

hope this is some help.
john d.

Mike,
  A friend in the Netherlands built this one up several years ago and had good results with it. You wouldn't need the water pump and drive
with an air cooled cylinder but the intake did work and did very well at the races. Down side was he would get one race to a set of clutch plates. I think their are still the parts to do this in kit form available.
 







It made right at 31 hp.
For dirt you could build up a Can Am type intake tract . You could use the TNT rotary cover as a tested model to build from.

JP ,
 What reed cage would you use ? The DH and Gems that were made for the Sachs 125's are a little small.

Get a dead CT2 cylinder and weld that reed housing on the Sachs cylinder?
Or does someone make up a kit that would work now for a 32 or so mm carb ?

john d.

Harry,
try this site.



http://www.themopedjunkyard.com/lights.html

 the folks are good to deal with
john d.

Gavin,
 It looks like 1.2 mm but it is fuzzy. It is wider than deep from the drawing.
Post Speedy a note , he has the original not a copy of a copy like we are looking at.
sorry but its the best we can do for now.
john d.

Gavin,
 Yahoo. deleted all my Flick a photos.
Don't know why.
 The info was something we got from Speedy years ago to help clean up the bottom range on some engines, carb combos


hope this is what you were looking for.
 I have some things on a Photobucket account now that you can get to.
( http://s439.photobucket.com/home/sachs175/index )

john d.