Messages

Ah, before I forget, I tested the ignition and there's no spark from the plug... I even tried touching the hot wire but, again, nothing.  I'll take pictures of it all and post them on yahoo so you can take a look for yourselves.  Repair manual is on the way!!!

 

Okey, I picked up an impact driver today, and it took 2 screws off.  As for the other screws, they will not budge.  Should I get a tap and die set, tap the old screws out, and put in replacement screws?  Do you think it will be ok to leave the transmission cover alone?

 

Yep, that makes me 18 and I live in Charlotte, NC.  I'm getting pretty enthusiastic about getting her running again and I'm spending just about every free moment trying to get it working.  I definitely will plan a road trip to Ohio this july to feed my new found "addiction" (I just need to know specifically where it will be held), and if any of you guys will be there, I'd like to know.  I have a digital camera and I'll take some pics if you'll tell me where to send it.  And about those screws on the transmission cover - they just don't want to budge.  I tried this stuff called Fre-eze overnight, but it doesn't help.  Any ideas?  And the gas tank looks not all that bad, it's just badly rusted on the inside.  I mean, when I poured all the old fuel out, it was mixed with rust chips.  Will muriatic acid get rid of that?
Oh yeah, and Paul?...no lights, unfortunately.
-Mike
[email protected]

 

Well, the bike is not running now, but I think I have an exellent chance of getting it started if I rebuild the carburetor, get a new tank, and get new wires and schematic for wiring it up.  As for the muffler, it seems ok.  Do you guys think it's a good idea to open the engine and transmission up and check it all out if it still compresses freely and shifts?
-Mike
[email protected]

 

The carb is completely apart exept for this black plastic spring-action button.  When I press it, a pin depresses into the float chamber.  This is the only piece left, and I can't clean it with this thing on since the cleaner will dissolve plastic.  Should I just use another cleaner and not the dip-tank kind?  Man, I really want to get this thing running before I leave for college in the fall!  YThanks!!
-Mike

 

No, she doesn't have shock boots on and yeah, the rear hub has four bolts, but I am kind of confused of what part shears and what do I do to remedy this.  I defintely will buy all three books.
-Mike
[email protected]


 

The number on the head is V 709.  The number on the cylinder head is actually 0613 107 000.  The carburetor is a Bing.  I went to their website, but that carb doesn't seem to be listed there.  Where can I get a rebuild for it?  And, yes, one side of the airbox is removeable by taking out a screw in the middle of the plate.  Thanks a million!!!
-Mike
[email protected]

 

I just looked and, yes, the airbox behind the carb.  The cylinder head consists of two parts, it seems.  The top that has fins pointing up is aluminum and the lower part with the fins pointing towards the sides are steel.  It has a # stamped on what i think is the flange on the bottom of the head: 0613 1070 000  It has a skidplate welded onto the frame that has holes puched out in it, and green shock boots on the rear. I got the exhaust, gas tank, and the engine/tranny off today. I also managed to take the carb off (there's this gross brown goo in there) and apart.  Is soaking the carb in carburetor cleaner ok?  Will I need to buy some sort of rebiuld kit for it?  Sorry for all the questions, I just really want to get this wonderful beast running again!
-Mike
[email protected]

 

I'm parting my 1968 six days and selling it on ebay.  I was surprised at the amount of money that the gas tank alone is getting!  My question is what is the best way to ship the frame?  Can it be damaged if shipped by freight?  Please feel free to email me about inqiries.

Mike
[email protected]

I was recently was given a 125cc Penton six days that has been sitting in a barn for about 20 yrs.  The exterior is not in all that bad of shape, exept for some surface rust. The Gas tank is green-painted metal  with white ovals covering either side,( it's completely rusted on the inside)and the intake is green as well.  The engine still compresses freely and the tranny still shifts.  If there is anyone out there who can help me identify what year this is and where can I get a repair manual and parts I would be ever greatful.          
                 -Mike
                  [email protected]