I NEED HELP!!! 125cc six days

[BrOpus]

I was recently was given a 125cc Penton six days that has been sitting in a barn for about 20 yrs.  The exterior is not in all that bad of shape, exept for some surface rust. The Gas tank is green-painted metal  with white ovals covering either side,( it's completely rusted on the inside)and the intake is green as well.  The engine still compresses freely and the tranny still shifts.  If there is anyone out there who can help me identify what year this is and where can I get a repair manual and parts I would be ever greatful.          
                 -Mike
                  [email protected]

 

[Paul Danik]

Greetings and welcome to the land of Penton!!!!  There is a serial number on the stearing head that will help to identify the machine. The early machines are told apart mostly by the changes that evolved in the machine. You mentioned that the intake is green, do you mean that your machine has a green airbox behind the carb?  Since your Penton has a metal gas tank it was built  between 1968 to 1971. Are there holes on the sides of the main frame section under the gas tank? Are your cylinder fins steel or alluminum, a magnet will tell you.  Post what info you can and we will all try and help you.  Take a look at the photos in this site and see if your bike is similar to any of them.  As far as parts goes, we have a parts link on the home page with several guys listed.  Good luck and keep us posted.
Paul
 
















 

[scott brogan]

Oh my heaven . You really don't know what you have stumbled into with these people in the land of PENTON. They are some of the best caliber and helpul people on the planet.Not to mention the most friendly I have ever met. By posting your message here you will
now be able to get the most helpful information avalible. And from some of the people that actually were there in "THE DAY"
Like Paul there. And many more. Welcome and
enjoy!!!

 

[BrOpus]

I just looked and, yes, the airbox behind the carb.  The cylinder head consists of two parts, it seems.  The top that has fins pointing up is aluminum and the lower part with the fins pointing towards the sides are steel.  It has a # stamped on what i think is the flange on the bottom of the head: 0613 1070 000  It has a skidplate welded onto the frame that has holes puched out in it, and green shock boots on the rear. I got the exhaust, gas tank, and the engine/tranny off today. I also managed to take the carb off (there's this gross brown goo in there) and apart.  Is soaking the carb in carburetor cleaner ok?  Will I need to buy some sort of rebiuld kit for it?  Sorry for all the questions, I just really want to get this wonderful beast running again!
-Mike
[email protected]

 

[Paul Danik]

Mike,
 I believe that you have come across a very early machine, that is wonderful.  The painted shocks and the airbox are rare.  The number that you supplied 0613 1070 000 is the part number for the head, I think.  The 0613 portion is the Sachs prfix for the early heads, the rest of those numbers don't match anything in my book, leading me to believe that you may have a Sachs high compression head.Maybe someone else can match that part number for us.  Look for the frame serial number on the steering head.  It will just be several numbers stamped into the metal.  As far as the carb goes you can still buy most any part that you may need. Does the airbox have a knob on the left side that is used to remove a cover?
Paul

 

[BrOpus]

The number on the head is V 709.  The number on the cylinder head is actually 0613 107 000.  The carburetor is a Bing.  I went to their website, but that carb doesn't seem to be listed there.  Where can I get a rebuild for it?  And, yes, one side of the airbox is removeable by taking out a screw in the middle of the plate.  Thanks a million!!!
-Mike
[email protected]

 

[Paul Danik]

You are the proud owner of the 709th Penton to roll off of the assembly line. I would think that would make your machine a 1968.  How many bolts are used to hold the rear sprocket to the rear hub?  The early ones came with a four bolt hub that would shear and they were replaced with a 6 bolt version.  The bolts didn't shear, the internal drive parts did. If you have the four bolt version I would replace the drive rubbers that are inside.  Also, are there rubber fork boots on the bike?  There isn't to much in a bing carb that needs replaced unless you discover a torn gasket or a bad float or needle seat. I normally take the thing apart and clean and inspect every part and jet.  Make sure the passages are all clean in the carb body.  If you need a part contact one of the parts suppliers listed in the parts section of this site. You need to get a copy of Penton parts book 001,and a copy of a repair manual, the parts guys should have copies for sale. Your machine is quite collectable, some riding on it wouldn't be bad, but I really wouldn't use it every weekend to go out with the guys. You might be interested in getting a copy of the John Penton book from the AMA and finding out the Penton history, both the man and the machine.
Paul

 

[BrOpus]

No, she doesn't have shock boots on and yeah, the rear hub has four bolts, but I am kind of confused of what part shears and what do I do to remedy this.  I defintely will buy all three books.
-Mike
[email protected]


 

[BrOpus]

The carb is completely apart exept for this black plastic spring-action button.  When I press it, a pin depresses into the float chamber.  This is the only piece left, and I can't clean it with this thing on since the cleaner will dissolve plastic.  Should I just use another cleaner and not the dip-tank kind?  Man, I really want to get this thing running before I leave for college in the fall!  YThanks!!
-Mike

 

[Paul Danik]

If you take the back wheel off you will see where the sprocket carrier mates to the hub.  The mating metal parts are cushioned by some rubber horseshoe shaped bushings.  I would put new rubber bushings in.  If the rubber bushings are dry rotted or wore out they will no longer cushion the metal mating parts.  That 4 bolt sprocket carrier and hub are rare and you don't want to tear it up.  The fingers on the hub are what shears off, I remember exactly where I was when my hub sheared, over 30 years ago!!!!!
Paul

 

[Paul Danik]

Man I can't keep up with you!!!! That spring action button is called the tickler.  It pushes the float down and lets extra fuel flood the engine for cold starting.  I have never taken one of those off.  If you hand dip the carb to that point you should be fine.  Any of you other guys have a comment on this just jump right in.
Paul
PS  After sitting all those years you also need to check out the airfilter, they can  rot out sometimes and parts of it can be sucked into the engine.

 

[mikey]

couple things..you can remove the tickler but its not simple..you need a dremel to take the little bump off the shaft and it will fly out(spring pressure) but you will have to drill it put a tiny washer and cotter pin to put it back or you can put it in and squeeze score it with a pair of cutting pliers and most times it will stay..also if its been sitting in a barn check the pipe for a rats nest..it will shut the bike down real bad if its full of crap..I have bought more than one bike for peanuts because it didn't run worth a crap..I would take the silencer etc out and start it up and watch the fireworks of crap blow out the end of the pipe..for what its worth!

 

[BrOpus]

Well, the bike is not running now, but I think I have an exellent chance of getting it started if I rebuild the carburetor, get a new tank, and get new wires and schematic for wiring it up.  As for the muffler, it seems ok.  Do you guys think it's a good idea to open the engine and transmission up and check it all out if it still compresses freely and shifts?
-Mike
[email protected]

 

[Paul Danik]

Mike,
   If it were mine I would want to get it started and try it out first.  The reason being is you really don't know if anything is wrong unless you try it. Several things usually occur after a machine has been sitting for a long time.  The mag seal, located behind the flywheel on the right side of the engine, will be dried out and it will maybe run lean. If it is bad it can be changed without splitting the cases.  The other common thing is for the clutch plates to be stuck together. This can be somewhat solved sometimes by pulling the clutch in while riding in low gear and applying the rear brake, sometimes not!!!! A way to check the clutch before hand is pull it in and kick the engine over, the plates should slip. Either way don't be aiming at a wall the first time you try and slip it into gear.  I would actually get the bike rolling and pull the clutch in and then put it in gear, it's easier on the gears if the clutch grabs.  There is only one wire to worry about. The blue wire that comes out of the ignition is your hot wire that goes to the coil.  All of the other wires are not needed to run the machine. What part of the country are you located in?  I my opinion you won the lottery when you recieved that Penton.  Does it have lights?
Paul


 

[Kip Kern]

Your next step in this "addiction" is to come to Mid Ohio, July 19-21st and visit the Penton display, Row "G" in the swapmeet.  There will be several Penton folks and bikes and each of your questions can be answered!  Have Fun!