125 Restoration

[chkitout]

I just recently decided to restore my 1972 125 Six Day bike which has been in semi storage for the last 10yrs. I am the orginal owner and still have manual and most of the orginal parts. The bike is in fair condition but since it has been rarely used for the last 10yrs and very little the previous 10. I am in the process of just cleaning it up at this point and examing it thourghly for what has to be done to get back in operation. I am hoping that someone here has gone through the process already and might have some words of advice or suggestions on the best way to proceed with this project. I am interested in knowing any pitfalls that I may be facing or suggestions anyone may have that will allow me to complete this project end up with decent bike once I am finished with it. Thanks Walt

 

[Chris Brown]

The only way I'm happy with these old bikes is a complete tear down and go over every part and inspect, strip, plate, paint, polish or replace it so it's at least servicable and even better if it's like new.
My 400 is remarkably reliable after putting some pretty hard trail miles on it. The only failure I've had are those rubber isolated pipe mounts. They don't make 'em like they used to. I finally had to through-bolt it with a neoprene spacer.
One of the best upgrades I chose were the Buchanan stainless spokes. Highly recommended for any resto.
I also like to replace at least most if not all the fastners (nuts and bolts) with stainless machine screws of the proper size and style. Allen drive machine screws are really trick, and you can polish the head with a polishing wheel for a chrome like look.
If you can get your hands on a glass bead-blaster that's the ticket for a lot of the parts. Or you can take parts to a blasting shop and have them do it. I sent my pipes in for blasting with a fine sand medium (one was REALLY rusty) and it came out beutifully. I've also done hubs, cylinder head, brake arms etc. by glass bead medium.
A wire-wheel on a bench grinder is indispensible as well.
I like to clear coat polished aluminum and cad plated parts with automotive urathane. The downside is that if and when they get chipped, you have to strip and recoat them. I'll have to see how this works out over the long haul.
Let us know how you're coming. It's a slow process if it's done right. I spent 6 months on one and almost a year on the other.
And the most important thing you'll need is lots of $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Chris