Rookie resto questions

Started by Matthew McPhail, April 19, 2010, 02:35:32 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Matthew McPhail

I've recently had an opportunity to aquire two great vintage bikes. One is a 74 Mint 400 that I picked up from POGer Chuck Purinton.  The other is an '81 Husky 250 xc. My mechanical knowledge is limited. I feel comfortable with the cosmetic stuff but would like some information / opinions.

Do you prefer / recommend chemical stripping or media blasting?

For frames, triples, pegs, etc.  do you prefer powder coating or paint (like a 2 stage auto paint)?

How do you decipher which parts to plate and which to paint or powder?  Do you have a plate finish you prefer?

Thanks for the help.  I'm not looking to make these any type of certifiable restorations but i do want them to look period.

Matt



2008 Husqvarna TE450
2004 KTM 250 EXC
1974-75 Penton Mint 400
2008 Husqvarna TE450
1982 Husqvarna 250XC
1974-75 Penton Mint 400

rfpotter

Matthew, Welcome to POG.

Everyone has answered any question I have ever asked, but I have learned a lot using the "Search" feature for the forum. Most topics have been discussed many times. Also the "Production Years' on the front page, and the thousands of images in the Gallery.
I print all my answers out and put them in a binder.

Patrick Houston
Cosby, Tennessee

garrettccovington

Mathew
Welcome to POG.  Patrick is correct, search the message board.  The paint and paint code question is always the 1st questions asked and what level of restoration do I want to do?  Me,,,, I ride and race them, so it doesn't make any sense for me to go all out.  I find home depot paint works just fine and looks pretty good too.  Only a POGer could tell.  Anyways  search the message board for "paint Codes" and "how to post a pic"   Everybody likes seeing the before and after shots.

Oh Yea!  DO NOT PUT PUMP GAS IN THE FIBERGLASS TANK!!!!  Modern pump gas disolves the tank.  You can search this too.

Again Welcome to POG!

G

72 six-day
79 KTM MC80 250
72 six-day
79 KTM MC80 250

Gordon Brennan

"I print all my answers out and put them in a binder".

Now THAT'S a smart idea.

Matthew, It's hard to beat Sand Blasting & Powder Coating. My 2 cents.

tomale

Welcome Matt, I have tried several different paint methods and am not that happy with any of them, I am building a bike for a friend right now and he had the frame powder coated, It sure looks good, I may try it myself the next time I build a bike for me... my 76 MC 5 still has the stock paint on it, mostly because I race that bike and I care less what it looks like and more how it runs....

Thom Green,Still crazy after all these years!
76' 250 MC5 (orginal owner)74'
250 hare scrambler (project bike)
Thom Green,Still crazy after all these years!
74\\\' 1/2 440 maico
70\\\' 400 maico (project)
93\\\' RMx 250 suzuki
2004 Suzuki DL1000
1988 Honda Gl 1500
2009 KTM 400 XC-W

joe novak

Hello,   A good place to look for the original frame color is the large frame tube under the fuel tank (if the frame has not been already painted).   This area gets no wear, little fading, and is protected from mud and dirt by that little rubber frame flap (on the Penton).   I recommend having the paint color code determined at the paint shop before you strip or blast the frame, or other parts.   The fact is that Penton frame colors vary slightly regardless of the year and model.   I personally prefer spray paint (the good automotive type) because it can be more easily touched up if needed by me, it is a durable finish, and paint shops can duplicate any color you like.  Just remember that there are other factors that determine the paint finish, also.   Like color of primer (I always use light grey for silver finish coat) or base coat, mixing of paint/solvent, et.al.   I have been told that the best base coat is the original paint if it is in decent condition.  Scuff it, prep it, and paint it, I have been told.   Joe

thrownchain

Make full use of the search mode. You'll get lots of info. If after reading it all, feel free to ask questions if you need to. No such thing as a dumb question. But be prepared for differing views, everyone has their own likes and dislikes..

linglewn

As you can tell, the discussion of paint vs powder coat can go on and on. There are very good points on both sides of the discussion. I use powder coating after bead blasting - not only because I like the look, but also because the local powder coater is a restoration enthusiast himself and does a meticulous job for a reasonable price.
The color he uses is Stardust Silver which is almost identical to the PJ-1 KTM Silver/Gray epoxy paint that is apparently no longer available.

Steel parts such as foot pegs, axles, chain adjusters, tool rack, nuts, and bolts I have clear zinc plated. It makes them look good and helps prevent rusting.

Good luck, and enjoy the finished product, no matter what process you choose to use.


Nelson Lingle
73 Jackpiner
74 Jackpiner
71 DKW 125
Nelson Lingle
73 Jackpiner
74 Jackpiner
71 DKW 125

garrettccovington

Yea, "the search" is the way to go.  don't forget the engine to frame and coil to frame ground. very important.

g

72 six-day
79 KTM MC80 250
72 six-day
79 KTM MC80 250

sachsmx

I like to use powdercoating on the frame (mainly because I hate sandblasting frames myself) and paint for all aluminum or magnesium components. A lot depends on what tools and equipment you have available to you. I have both an abrasive cabinet for glass bead blasting and a small strip tank made from a plastic box found at Lowes that I have filled about 1/8 full with a gallon of Eastwood aircraft paint stripper. I prefer to strip engine cases and cylinders beacause it can be real hard to get all of the blast media out from blind holes. I have also used soda blasting on engine cases which was kind of expensive. I have also used paint stripper on hubs and other items that I can put in the box while I do other things and let the chemicals do the work for you.
The main thing is to have fun. ;)