Rim Truing

[Mick Milakovic]

Hi All,
Just laced up a front wheel for a Jackpiner project for Jarrin, but I'm not real good at getting them true.  I can get them close, but there's always a little wobble.  How do you guys do it?  Any advice for guy with no special clamps or truing devices?

Mick

[thrownchain]

What rim are you using?

[Mick Milakovic]

DID 21" 36-hole full-width front wheel on a '74 jackpiner.

Mick

[Ron]

Work the hop out before the wobble. Set up a fixed pointer (coat hanger) Resting slightly above the rim.

To get a hop out loosen six spokes progressively on the opposite side of the hop and then pull the hop down using 3 spokes progressively on each side of the center of the hop.

Move the fixed pointer to the side of the rim. To work out a wobble, you have to determine which direction the rim needs to move.
Loosen 4 spokes progressively centered on the wobble and tighten 4 spokes progressively on the opposite side, to pull the rim in the appropriate direction.

[thrownchain]

Biggest idea is to work slow and steady, the finer tuning is what takes time. And don't be afraid to walk away and then come back to it, it'll get easier the more you do. I've had problems with some rims that the rim isn't true, then you have to true at the area the tire seats on, and there are some that always have a wobble to them, just get it as close as you can.

[Mick Milakovic]

Should I true the rim on the bike, with a spoke (or coat hanger) taped to the fork leg?

Mick

[454MRW]

I do mine with an axle clamped into my bench vise with a black marking pen held to it with a rigged up wooden fixture and spin the rim and move the marker to just contact the rim. it makes it easier to see exactly where it is too close, then after tightening those few spokes on the opposite side to pull it away, I wipe the mark off with carb cleaner and go again, flipping the wheel around periodically to true it from the opposite side. Mike

Michael R. Winter
I enjoy rebuilding and appreciating Pentons!
1974 250 HS Pentons-1980 KTM 175-400'S
1975 Can Am 175 TNT & 77 250 Black Widow
1979 Husqvarna OR390
1976-78 RM & 77-79 PE Suzuki's
1974 CR250M 07 CR125R 79 CR250R

[Mick Milakovic]

Mike, how do you keep the wheel from moving in/out on the axle?

Mick

[454MRW]

The wheel won't move around unless you push is around, only move the marker into place until it slightly touches the rim. If you have an axle that fits a little loose, just wrap it with some tape and wedge it a little. Mike

Michael R. Winter
I enjoy rebuilding and appreciating Pentons!
1974 250 HS Pentons-1980 KTM 175-400'S
1975 Can Am 175 TNT & 77 250 Black Widow
1979 Husqvarna OR390
1976-78 RM & 77-79 PE Suzuki's
1974 CR250M 07 CR125R 79 CR250R

[Mick Milakovic]

Thanks for the advice, guys, I built a stand last night and got started.  I'll post a pic of it later.  

Mike, thanks for the black marker tip, it works really well!

Ron, the hop seems good, but a little wobble exists.  When you say "loosen 4 spokes progressively centered on the wobble", do you mean 4 spokes no matter which side the spokes pull from?  I'm not sure I understand, but that seems to say that the 4 spokes would be in order, and not skipping one since the ones that pull from a single side alternate holes in the rim.

Mick

[454MRW]

Mick,
Where the marker contacts the rim, loosen the few spokes that would pull it toward the marker and tighten the ones that would pull it away. I usually start with about 1/8 of a turn, working progressively less toward the beginning and ending area of the mark left with the marker or less if the mark gets lighter. Tapping each spoke with the spoke wrench will also indicate which spokes are looser than others by pitch they resonate, and I usually try to get them similar in pitch, but it takes a lot of practice and patience to get them similar without throwing everthing out of whack. Good luck. Mike

Michael R. Winter
I enjoy rebuilding and appreciating Pentons!
1974 250 HS Pentons-1980 KTM 175-400'S
1975 Can Am 175 TNT & 77 250 Black Widow
1979 Husqvarna OR390
1976-78 RM & 77-79 PE Suzuki's
1974 CR250M 07 CR125R 79 CR250R

[Bob Bean]

Just got done doing 2 HD wheels for customer.
I use a truing stand with dial indicators, so it is a little like
cheating.
The best advice is go slow.  Think which way you want it to go.
Lube the spokes and nipples.
I use some masking tape for markers (china markers work too)
Make sure your offset is right.  (centered on most, but can be offset)
Dont try to tighten on side too tight to move it.
Loosen the opposite side if need be first, the gradually tight each
spoke as ya go.

Bob Bean

1986 ISDE Italy
1987 ISDE Poland
1989 ISDE Germany

1970 125 Six Day
1973 100 Berkshire
1973 Jackpiner 175
1974 Penton 250 Harescrambler
1976 Husky 250CR
1981 Husky 250CR
1982 Husky 250CR
1985 Husky 400WRX
1985 Husky 400WR

[Bob Bean]

Boy, I should proof reed my speling b4 posting <G>

1986 ISDE Italy
1987 ISDE Poland
1989 ISDE Germany

1970 125 Six Day
1973 100 Berkshire
1973 Jackpiner 175
1974 Penton 250 Harescrambler
1976 Husky 250CR
1981 Husky 250CR
1982 Husky 250CR
1985 Husky 400WRX
1985 Husky 400WR

[Ron]

Yes, loosen the the spokes on the outside and tighten the spokes on inside. This will allow you to pull the rim in the diection you need to go. Not knowing which direction you need to move the rim, I'm using inside/outside for reference only.

As you tighten the inside, the outside spokes get tighter by the same amount. If you don't loosen them first, they will get to tight and make it harder to pull the rim.

Using 4 spokes progressively, spreads the work so you don't over tighten an individual spoke. You will need to tighten the spokes closest to the middle of the wobble the most, then progressively less as you work away from the center, but only on the side you need to pull.

Once you get the rim true, assuming a 36 hole cross 2 pattern. You will have 4 sets of spokes, 2 sets on each side.

Using a marker (piece of tape) tighten the spoke at the marker a 1/4 turn. Then counting the first spoke (the one you just tightened), count 3 spokes and tighten that one a 1/4 turn, count 3 etc, etc.

When you,ve gone all the way around the wheel, you will have tightened 9 spokes. You probably noticed you have tightened 1 spoke coming from each side of the hub.

Move your marker to the next spoke and go around again. You will go around the wheel 4 times before you have tighten all the spokes (4 sets of 9).

Tightening in this manner will prevent you from pulling the rim out of true, since you are pulling both sides equally as you go around.

You will most likely have to go around several times, tightening each spoke a 1/4 turn, until you start getting a consistant ting/tang sound (inside spokes are shorter and have a different sound) when you tap the spokes with a screwdriver.

Seesh, way easier to do, than to described. LOL
Ron

[Paul Danik]

Hi Mick,

   I can't provide any advice that can compare to what has already been provided.  But your post instantly took me back to my "first time" adventure with lacing a wheel.  Well actually it was more of a repair.

   I had torn out a number of spokes on the rear wheel of my 1965 150cc Honda Dream, off roader.....  My mentor Bob Augustine stopped by the house after I had gotten some new spokes and gave me a lesson in wheel truing.  We took two of my Mom's oak kitchen chairs and put them back to back with just enough gap to let the wheel fit between them, with the axle resting on the chair backs. He then provided some tips on marking the rim as it spun and how to work the high spots and wobbles out...

   Mom and Augie have both been gone for many years, but I still have those oak chairs...

   Thanks for stirring the old memory pot, and good luck with your project.  If you need a truing stand keep the dining room chairs in mind.

Paul