New Penton Owner

[ccmnova]

I just picked up a 1974 Penton 125 6-days.  The bike is pretty nice and runs but I haven't had it out for long.  I believe it needs a new clutch since I can't get any adjustment out of it and the cable is at the end of its adjustment.  I ordered the parts from Al and he's sending them now.  I did get a repair manual from Al but the images have been copied so many times in some cases its hard to see.  I'm hoping to get some help from the forum to get the bike in good shape - will try to post some pics too.  Can anyone give me some pointers to change the clutch ?  I want to know what kind of fluid to use as well, seen that a standard transmission fluid works well.  I am getting some fluid leakage out of the case i believe at the shafts.

[skiracer]

Welcome to the group.  There is more knowledge here than you can imagine.  Ask all the question that you have. And good luck with your new bike!

1976 MC 5 Original Owner
1982 Suzuki PE 175
1976 Penton 175 XC
1979 KTM 175 GS

[Kip Kern]

Hi and welcome!  Start off by adjusting the clutch at the engine.  Left side, clutch cover middle higher large screw.  Remove the cover/screw and you will see a brass screw and a small steel one (grub screw).  Loosen the grub a little where you can turn the brass.  Turn the brass clockwise in all the way until it stops and then back it off 1/3 turn.  Lock the grub so the brass won't turn and the clutch is adjusted at the engine.  Now, go from there to the bars and see if you can get the lever adjusted properly.  In some cases, I cut and re solder the cable to make it shorter, works better with about 1/4" cut off.  Good luck

[Dale Fisher]

Removal of the clutch is pretty straight forward and generally requires little internal attention.

A. Over time cables do stretch out and need replacing.  It is recommended taking the cover off to change out the cable so as to not break/strip out the access plug (vintage castings).

B. Check the washers and thrust bearing behind the clutch.  They must be installed properly for the clutch and adjustment to function optimally.

C. The clutch cover case leakage can usually be cured in one or more ways.  The ID of the seal pressed into the case may be leaking but the most likely cause is the O-ring installed on the shift/starter shafts.  Sometimes adding a second O-ring and pushing the kicker up tightly (but not binding) cures the issue.

D. Make sure the copper washer is installed on what should be the oil drain screw.  Don't use the bottom drain plug (more potential breakage or thread stripping).  Pop the side cover screw and lean her over...

E. Lubricant choice is highly personal.  I use Golden Spectro 80WT Gear Lube (because Doug Wilford said that's what to use, and I'm old school).  He also recommended 700cc which helps lubricate the layshaft but may also contribute the the thru shaft drippage.

Dale Fisher
Penton Owners Group - President/Memberships
Mudlark Registry
Facebook - Cheney Twinshock Racing Group - Administrator

'70 Six-Day 125 - V2017
'71 Six-Day 125 (Dave Fisher's) - V5553
'72 Mudlark - W257
'73 Jackpiner - 175 21159727
'74 Berkshire 100 - 40171056
'98 HP-14 Hi-Point
And some silly other bikes...

[ccmnova]

The manual says to use automatic transmission fluid, not sure what type.  I've also seen where you are supposed to soak the new clutch plates in the fluid overnight to absorb fluid and slightly thicken.  

quote:Originally posted by Dale Fisher

Removal of the clutch is pretty straight forward and generally requires little internal attention.

A. Over time cables do stretch out and need replacing.  It is recommended taking the cover off to change out the cable so as to not break/strip out the access plug (vintage castings).

B. Check the washers and thrust bearing behind the clutch.  They must be installed properly for the clutch and adjustment to function optimally.

C. The clutch cover case leakage can usually be cured in one or more ways.  The ID of the seal pressed into the case may be leaking but the most likely cause is the O-ring installed on the shift/starter shafts.  Sometimes adding a second O-ring and pushing the kicker up tightly (but not binding) cures the issue.

D. Make sure the copper washer is installed on what should be the oil drain screw.  Don't use the bottom drain plug (more potential breakage or thread stripping).  Pop the side cover screw and lean her over...

E. Lubricant choice is highly personal.  I use Golden Spectro 80WT Gear Lube (because Doug Wilford said that's what to use, and I'm old school).  He also recommended 700cc which helps lubricate the layshaft but may also contribute the the thru shaft drippage.

Dale Fisher
Penton Owners Group - President/Memberships
Mudlark Registry
Facebook - Cheney Twinshock Racing Group - Administrator

'70 Six-Day 125 - V2017
'71 Six-Day 125 (Dave Fisher's) - V5553
'72 Mudlark - W257
'73 Jackpiner - 175 21159727
'74 Berkshire 100 - 40171056
'98 HP-14 Hi-Point
And some silly other bikes...

[ccmnova]

I tried that adjustment since the repair manual notes this but it didn't seem to do anything. Maybe it would be better with the side cover off and I guess I'll need to make that adjustment after i change the clutch (?)  I did notice that with the cable at it's extreme adjustment and the bike in gear and the clutch lever engaged, the bike won't roll - I had assumed that that meant the clutch was bad (?)

quote:Originally posted by kip kern

Hi and welcome!  Start off by adjusting the clutch at the engine.  Left side, clutch cover middle higher large screw.  Remove the cover/screw and you will see a brass screw and a small steel one (grub screw).  Loosen the grub a little where you can turn the brass.  Turn the brass clockwise in all the way until it stops and then back it off 1/3 turn.  Lock the grub so the brass won't turn and the clutch is adjusted at the engine.  Now, go from there to the bars and see if you can get the lever adjusted properly.  In some cases, I cut and re solder the cable to make it shorter, works better with about 1/4" cut off.  Good luck

[ccmnova]

Thanks ! Id like to post a few pics of the Penton but can't seem to see how - please let me know how to post photos. !

quote:Originally posted by skiracer

Welcome to the group.  There is more knowledge here than you can imagine.  Ask all the question that you have. And good luck with your new bike!

1976 MC 5 Original Owner
1982 Suzuki PE 175
1976 Penton 175 XC
1979 KTM 175 GS

[454MRW]

Click on search and enter posting pics.

Michael R. Winter
I enjoy rebuilding and appreciating Pentons!
1974 250 HS Pentons-1980 KTM 175-400'S
1975 Can Am 175 TNT & 77 250 Black Widow
1979 Husqvarna OR390
1976-78 RM & 77-79 PE Suzuki's
1974 CR250M 07 CR125R 79 CR250R

[Dale Fisher]

Clutches do sometimes get "stuck" if not run for awhile and even on well used bikes.  Getting the clutch to release can range from a little coaxing with the lever fully pulled and rocking the bike back and forth in gear to bump starting and riding the running bike with lever pulled.  My Berkshire is the culprit at times on the second scenario and I don't care for it much....  Operational kill switch highly suggested!  My Triumph 500 single the worst!!  [:0]

Dale Fisher
Penton Owners Group - President/Memberships
Mudlark Registry
Facebook - Cheney Twinshock Racing Group - Administrator

'70 Six-Day 125 - V2017
'71 Six-Day 125 (Dave Fisher's) - V5553
'72 Mudlark - W257
'73 Jackpiner - 175 21159727
'74 Berkshire 100 - 40171056
'98 HP-14 Hi-Point
And some silly other bikes...

[Gordon Brennan]

I use ATF in my Penton Trials bike, as well as a couple other Vintage bikes I have. Just make sure it's Type (F), and change it more often. Mine comes out of the motor, looking exactly the way it did going in.

Dale, I have the same problem with a Yamaha TY350 Trials bike. Sometimes my future son in law rides it, and I always tell him to not have it pointing at anything important when he drops it in to gear. Takes about 5 minutes before it works loose.

[ccmnova]

I heard that type F transmission fluid was good to use - why type F ? does it have to do with the clutch plate material ?  I got new old stock plates from Al and new springs, cable, case gasket, etc.  I am planning to attempt to change the clutch soon - any pointers or tips for the procedure ? Any left hand threads or ?

quote:Originally posted by Gordon Brennan

I use ATF in my Penton Trials bike, as well as a couple other Vintage bikes I have. Just make sure it's Type (F), and change it more often. Mine comes out of the motor, looking exactly the way it did going in.

Dale, I have the same problem with a Yamaha TY350 Trials bike. Sometimes my future son in law rides it, and I always tell him to not have it pointing at anything important when he drops it in to gear. Takes about 5 minutes before it works loose.

[Richard Colahan]

Type F ATF
I've used it in my 1974 Husky 125WR since new.
Over 10,000 hard miles on the bike. Crank has been re-done...bore is now out to + .080...
But it is still on the original transmission and clutch...including friction plates. Clutch doesn't drag. Clutch doesn't slip.
Also used in vintage Brit bike primary cases.
Clutches usually free up with one or 2 kicks with the lever pulled in.



Richard Colahan
1969 V1225
Upper Black Eddy PA

[ccmnova]

quote:Originally posted by 454MRW

Click on search and enter posting pics.

Michael R. Winter
I enjoy rebuilding and appreciating Pentons!
1974 250 HS Pentons-1980 KTM 175-400'S
1975 Can Am 175 TNT & 77 250 Black Widow
1979 Husqvarna OR390
1976-78 RM & 77-79 PE Suzuki's
1974 CR250M 07 CR125R 79 CR250R

[ccmnova]

quote:Originally posted by ccmnova

Thanks ! Id like to post a few pics of the Penton but can't seem to see how - please let me know how to post photos. !

quote:Originally posted by skiracer

Welcome to the group.  There is more knowledge here than you can imagine.  Ask all the question that you have. And good luck with your new bike!

1976 MC 5 Original Owner
1982 Suzuki PE 175
1976 Penton 175 XC
1979 KTM 175 GS

[firstturn]

Very nice Penton!


Ron Carbaugh