Tech Tip 2008

Started by Ernie Phillips, January 05, 2008, 07:31:52 AM

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Ernie Phillips

Swingarm removal/bushing replacement (Six Day CMF):  

1.  Swingarm bolt stuck to inner sleeve – with engine removed use a reciprocating saw to cut the sucker out.  Make your first cut between the frame and swingarm.  With the swingarm removed you may be able press/punch out the stuck bolt.  If not, make next cuts between swingarm and rear engine mount.  When cutting, stay away from the frame and engine mounts.  I used a Bi-Metal, 6"-24tpi Recip Blade from Ace Hardware – PN # 2066422 and can verify that it is a very durable blade (8 cuts and still good).  (When the swingarm bolt is stuck to the inner sleeve be careful and do not get to happy with a 12mm hex key and cheater bar.  If the busing is really stuck, you will either strip the bolt threads, strip the socket head, or distort the frame.  When you turn the bolt something is going to move or strip – don't ask)

2.  Bushing removal (rubber with inner and outer metal sleeves)
- Option A:  Beat and bang the old bushing out.  Not recommended.
- Option B:  Heat swingarm bushing area with propane torch (be careful and do burn down the house) until the rubber begins to bubble.  Place punch on inner sleeve and knock it out.  Next, take recip saw and make two longitudinal cuts 180 degrees apart.  Be careful and do not cut into swingarm.  Take cold chisel and punch/peel the sleeve out.

3.  Bushing Installation. – Put new bushing in freezer to cool.  Clean swingarm bushing mounting area.  I used a Dremel sanding drum on the ID to make nice and shinny. Heat swingarm bushing area with propane torch.  Don't get too carried away, you are just trying to get a little expansion on the swingarm and a little contraction on the bushing to make things easier.  Put a little grease on the cold bushing and install quickly.  Have a bushing driver (proper sized socket will work) handy incase you need to persuade bushing into location.

Sheared / Broken bolt removal:  I recently had the 3 stator plate bolts shear on my son's Six Day.   Since they are small diameter (5mm) I was not sure how I was going to get them out.  I found a Craftsman "Drill-out, Screw-Out" micro power extractors to be the ticket (pn 9 52157, cost $40).   This kit (4 extractors) is for 3-6mm extraction.  On one end is a reverse drill bit and the other end is an "ez out".  On two of the three sheared bolts the reverse drill successfully backed out the bolts.  On the third bolt I drilled the hole, flipped the tool and tried to remove bolt with the e-z out but no luck.  Next, I douched with P-B Blaster / Kroil – no luck.   I applied a little heat – no luck.  I repeated the process over the next several hours with no luck.  I then drilled the bolt through and reapplied the penetrating oil – no luck.  I added heat ...  I gave up.  The next day I went out to the shop, installed the e-z out and the bolt came out!!   Tip – don't get in a hurry, be sure and drill in the center of the bolt, do not break e-z out.

Got any more tips?  


Ernie P.
Chattanooga, TN
Ernie P.
Chattanooga, TN