Messages

Update;I cleaned the carb. Bought a new float from Bing (the cheap one $40 as I live in snowmobile country so alcohol free fuel is sold everywhere) adjusted the float and the bike is a one kicker with no leakage! thanks for all the info Rich

Nothing was stuck so I've started changing my float level so far I've gone from a steady stream to a bubbly stream of gas. I'll keep working the float down.

Gentlemen I think you are correct with the timing issue. As for a key way I put a Power Dynamo ignition on it and when you do it eliminates the key way. I think when I retime  it I will put a couple more lbs. of torque on the nut

      Thank-you Sirs, Richard

Don't think so KJ got the cone tip and as for wasps started it every two or three days. I will check the timing a little closer

12 volt ignition no timing key plus checked timing seemed to be on

Thanks Kevin. That sure explains a lot funny tho in the manual it doesn't show the choke in the off position would make things a lot simpler!

Thank you thats what my math came out to.

Thank you, I have around 100psi, bike has been in the barn for 30+
years and I have restored it just having trouble getting it to run.
I poured gas in the cylinder and it fired after 2 kicks and idled for a sec put on the gas tank and it ran on full choke but seemed loaded
up put new needle and screen in the carb hasn't run since thinking maybe crank seals or float level or floats. Help!

I turn on the petcocks bleed the carb and the fuel just runs out of the overflow and doesn't quit. Do I have a stuck float,bad float,or wrong float adjustment or something completely different? Not leaking out of the tickler outlet or the bowl gasket.

My bike was running fine than I took it for and ride and it started bogging down and then quit and I walked it home. Once I got it home I thought carb problem I pulled the air cleaner cover and it was drenched with gas Aha I thought stuck needle or float. Since then cleaned carb several times checked float level pulled drain on crankcase (got 1/2 tsp of gas) checked timing and still it will run a little then backfire out the carb and quit. Still seems boggy when it does start.

In my manual and I Quote"When choke is moved to off position,no part of the choke slide should show in the carburetor throat when throttle is wide open" I find it is completely exposed. Am I missing something here or is it a misprint? Or do I have something assembled wrong?

On my new piston it tells the ring gap but not the deck height.
In my manual for an original piston you are told to measure off the top of the L-ring (0.8mm-0.9mm) the Wiesco has square rings and a dif
ferent dimension from the top of the ring to the top of the piston.
I guess I could measure the difference and do the math. Just wondering if anyone has had a similar problem?

What is the minimum compression on that motor?

I am thinking of changing over to the 12 volt electronic ignition Al Buehner sells, any input would be appreciated. Also I will be putting a complete lighting setup on it. (1974 250 Hare Scrambler)

I am restoring a set of Koni GP aluminum finned shocks, does anyone know how much oil and what weight to use? Also they are adjustable and I have no idea where to start at. It looks as though you remove the spring, compress the shock and spin counter clock-wise for stiffer and clock-wise for softer?? 76V-13 is what I can make out on the barrel.