Clutch Actuating Rods

[Kip Kern]

Another Question, is anyone out there making replacement hardened rods, of the proper dimensions, for the clutch actuating system in the 72 up 175-400 KTM engines?  There has to be a market as I find nothing but "toasted" rods in about every engine I dismantle.

 

[tlanders]

If you find any please let me know. I had to go through about five wrecked engines to find one set I could use on my Mint 400 and the only thing I am unhappy about with the 400 is the clutch - it drags. I put a dial indicator on the outer plate with the clutch pulled in and aroung all 360 degrees it was only out by .005". So why does it drag? I haven't checked the distance the actuator is from the case, but I believe if it was too far away, I would be riding on the wrong part of the slope of the cam and maybe that is what does not allow it to disengage completely. It makes 2nd gear starts REAL hard to do!!!! So to put it at the right place means the rods have to be the right length. I looked through about a dozen rods and they were all slightly different lengths, or big indents from the ball, or ground off by previous owners!!! I picked the two best looking ones, are they the right length? I don't know!! I sure would like to know why my clutch drags. New plates would just make it worse wouldn't it? Teddy

 

[john durrill]

Kip, hears an old Bultaco trick.
 i had a 68 sherpa s . the throw out beraing lasted about 1 day. the fix was to cut the rod intwo and square the ends . heat them cherry red and quench them on oil. add 1 ball bearing and bang it was fixed . the fix lasted for a year and was still working when i sold the bike. you could od the same thing but would have 2 ball bearings and 3 rod sections. i know it will work till some one comes up with repo rods . or you can find a source for something like drill rod and use either the heat and quench in oil trick on the ends or use something like Kasint which is  a steel harding compound you can get from a good gun parts supplier like Brownells
Hope this will help you and Teddy both.
John & Peter

 

[Larry Perkins]

We used to do John's trick with the old style actuator and rod set-up.  It comes with two rods and a ball bearing in the center.  When they would wear a bit we would do what John says and then use two ball bearings.  You would just have to cut the right length.  The hot set-up is the later model actuator and rod, though.  The action is far superior, the rod has less friction with the small ball bearing cage at the end, and the actuator itself is far beefier and lubable than the old style.  There are not alot of either actuators left around in NOS but if you replace spring for the newer style one.  That is my opinion.

 

[Kip Kern]

Thanks for the input guy's, I think I'll try to find a correct size rod, machine it properly, harden it like Kelsey's nuts, and give it a whirl!

 

[Kip Kern]

Here's the deal.  Found two new rods and came up with the following:  6mm diameter rod (5.9 exact).  Cut 108.1 mm long, Flat on one end and rounded on the other.  Hardened on each end of each rod.  1, 6mm bearing ball in between!

 

[Rocket]

Ted
The runout on clutch is too much.  You should be able to get that down under .002 or less if you work at it.  How many threads are exposed from the nut to the end of the spring bolt?  The least amount showing and clutch not slipping is the best, less chance for clutch drag.
Rocket

 

[Dr.2Stroke]

i have lots of clutch actuating assemblys from all years up 72 to 79. a good one will be 80$.dr.2stroke

 

[Dr.2Stroke]

i was missunderstanding. I have 4 new sets of these rods,consisting of two rods and one small bill.

 

[rob w]

Kip, You said that the diameter you measured is 5.9mm (.2322"). The diameters of oil hard drill rod that are close to that, and is available are .2362 (6mm), .2344 (15/64) and .2270 , I would be happy to do all of it for you or whatever you choose. It's the sort of thing I do everyday, and I am grateful for the "Torque" down pipe, especially now that I bought the correct bike to fit it to. Will be riding "Reunion Ride" soon, Yee Ha!



Edited by - rob w on 09/05/2002  11:12:39 PM

Edited by - rob w on 09/06/2002  06:52:06 AM

[tlanders]

WOW, I thought that .005" was nothing!!! So I gotta get it down to less than .002" huh? I'll try. I also probably have too much thread showing to make it easier to get the cotter pins through. Maybe I'll just use a single stainless steel wire and connect them all together. Thank you very much for the help. Teddy

 

[john durrill]

OK Guys ,
 how about one of you writing down the stock length on any nos rods you have and rob,
 would you do the same on replacement rod material. either e-mail me with the inf. or post it on our library. that way 6 months from now someone will have the answer to the how and what on new and old style rods and fixes.
 thanks,
 John

 

[Rocket]

Ted
I usually try to have 1-2 threads showing, preferbly closer to 1, and I use 1 piece of safety tie wire and tie them all together.
Rocket

 

[Kip Kern]

Rob , Contact me at [email protected] and I will hire you to produce some new rods so that I and others will have a new source for them!  Thanks

 

[john durrill]

Kip, Teddy , Rob
Talked to Bobby Lucas last night and the subject of clutch rods came up.
 I found out that their are at least 4 different types and lengths. the old style system with the ball and two rods and 3 different combos of the new style. one uses a flat bearing ( rollers in a washer style) on one end and the bearing cup on the other  using the new style actuator.
  it would be a good idea for everyone to find out which style came with the engine setup they have.
 sometimes the flat bearing is completely destroyed and no evidence of it is left except in the tranny oil.
 If you make your own rods just harden the ends about 1/8 to 1/4 inch in. the rod will be tougher and less likely to shatter that way.
 anyone with and NOS rod please measure it and lets get the info posted to the library.
 Hope this will help
John