Messages

About five years ago, after discovering the value of old Pentons, I immediately set out to rescue my '74 250 from the field behind my brother's barn where it had resided for the last few years. Early one cold spring morning I pulled the tarp off (funny, it didn't seem to be that muddy when I parked it?) and brought it home, put it in my (attached) garage and went out of town for a few weeks. When I returned the weather had warmed up pleasantly and all the mud dauber wasps that that had been hibernating in the seat, tool bag, air cleaner, under the seat, behind the number plates, between the motor fins, under the motor, in the motor, inside the handle bars, inside the pipe (stinger?) between the knobs on the tires and everywhere else you can think of had come out of hibernation and were busily constructing NEW nests in the rafters, under the work bench, behind the insulation, under the lawn mower  and in and amongst all the rest of the stuff stored in MY garage. To this day, we kill about 50 or so wasps just in the garage each spring, not mention destroying at least one nest behind every shutter on the house. I buy hornet spray by the case now and survey the house and yard every week or so all spring and summer long. Needless to say, according to my wife, it's all the Penton's fault. She says it's a curse for abandoning it out in a field for so long.
Last summer I rescued an old Honda CB450 from a junk yard in Indiana......now we have the emerald ash borers.......

I check the seller's or buyer feedback history. If it's a little spotty, I just don't bid and when I sell, I request that the bidder email me before bidding if they have any negative feedbacks. If never been burned by a fellow POG'er, but did have a poorly packaged cylinder arrive so badly damaged that it was useless. The seller just blew me off. On the other hand, I bought a shock that was leaking and the seller refunded my money, no questions asked.
I guess it boils down to personal integrity. If you're a bit suspicious, don't bid.

I've got front and rear wheels for a '75 250. The rear is straight and true, a few spokes have a little rust, but it's in good shape, comes with a used but usable 48 tooth aluminum sprocket, axle, adjusters brake plate, but no bearings. The front has 1/4" side wobble and a small flat spot, but no cracks. It comes with a brake plate and speedo drive. I also have a brake stay/chain guide in good shape. Drop me a line at [email protected] if you're interested.

 

I have a used 14 mm shifter shaft in fairly good shape. It even has part, but not all of the internal shifter linkage atached. Email me at [email protected]

 

I've dealt with Dr, 2 Stroke in person and can assure that he's upfront. He's not cheap, but who is? He's got beaucoup parts and you can buy with confidence.

 

I have a co-worker who does T-shirts on the side. He does high quality work, embroidery on T-Shirts, sweatshirts, jackets and so on. If enough poggers show interest, I'll talk to him about quantity pricing.

 

Monty:

Does your Penton have lighting coils? I am assuming that because you used the phase "create the current" that you do NOT have lighting coils.
There are better battery choices than NiCad. Look in an electronic supplier's catalog for gel-pack batteries. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes, behave much like wet-cell batteries, but won't spill or leak. They do have to be recharged however, but if you're just trying to pass a license inspection, they will last long enough. If you do have lighting coils, whatever you do, DO NOT connect a battery to the coils! There's a good chance that the battery will permanently burn out the lighting coils and if  you start the motor, the battery may explode!
If you properly size the head light, in terms of wattage, there's no need for a regulator. Too large (high wattage) of a headlight will burn out the lighting coils, too small and the head light will burn out. My '75 250 has the large "CEV" headlight and I have no need for a regulator. My son's XR350 will burn out an automotive high beam halogen bulb in a heart beat with out a regulator.
I don't know what the output of the Motoplat lighting coils is, perhaps some more expert POGGER's can help out here.

Hope that helps, Good Luck!

 

Monty:

Does your Penton have lighting coils? I am assuming that because you used the phase "create the current" that you do NOT have lighting coils.
There are better battery choices than NiCad. Look in an electronic supplier's catalog for gel-pack batteries. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes, behave much like wet-cell batteries, but won't spill or leak. They do have to be recharged however, but if you're just trying to pass a license inspection, they will last long enough. If you do have lighting coils, whatever you do, DO NOT connect a battery to the coils! There's a good chance that the battery will permanently burn out the lighting coils and if  you start the motor, the battery may explode!
If you properly size the head light, in terms of wattage, there's no need for a regulator. Too large (high wattage) of a headlight will burn out the lighting coils, too small and the head light will burn out. My '75 250 has the large "CEV" headlight and I have no need for a regulator. My son's XR350 will burn out an automotive high beam halogen bulb in a heart beat with out a regulator.
I don't know what the output of the Motoplat lighting coils is, perhaps some more expert POGGER's can help out here.

Hope that helps, Good Luck!

 

Go to //www.reidtool.com, select hand tools from the product guide and see pages 2 and 3. Prices range from $8 to $18.
It may be worth your while to get a face spanner if the shocks haven't been taken apart before. The cover is soft and a punch will chew up the holes (and everyone will think you're an amateur). If you work on enough motorcycles, it will come in handy for other things, like bearing retainers.

 

I guarantee you WILL turns heads!

 

You'll need a "face spanner" wrench to remove the caps. You can buy these at a distributor for machine shop tools. The one I have is made by Williams, model 482. Here in Detroit, we have a chain of tool distributors called "Production Tool" and another called "Reid", but you can probably find this spanner at any place that sells tools and tooling for machine shops. If you can't find one in your area, drop me a line and I'll get you phone number or website.

 

Rocket:

Pls email me at:[email protected]

 

I have a used, but not badly abused white Preston Petty Headlight/number plate combo. No cracks, the bulb works and comes with a switch and the plug and mounting brackets. Email me at [email protected] if your interested. I also have a used red lens from a Preston Petty rear fender.

 

I have a used, but not badly abused white Preston Petty Headlight/number plate combo. No cracks, the bulb works and comes with a switch and the plug and mounting brackets. Email me at [email protected] if your interested. I also have a used red lens from a Preston Petty rear fender.

 

Do you have spark if the switch is disconnected from the blue wire, but yet "grounded". If you do, the switch is shorted closed, it should be normaly open. Is there a short to the frame somewhere in the wiring?
According the wiring diagram I have, the blue wire on the coil is the correct wire that should go to the kill switch. Did you disconnect it from the terminal block? It has to remain connected to the motoplat as well.
Where did you "ground" the switch? I would use one of the two hex bolts that secure the coil to frame.